[geeteeohguy]

Originally Posted by 64speed

My first Pontiac was a 64 Lemans with a 66 389 and Muncie. The only thing I ever did was put oil and gas in it. I drove it as my only means of conveyance for 4 years. I agree, mild stock parts probably don’t fail as often, but find OE quality stuff now. It’s pillar or post. You can buy 500 roller lifters and hope for the best or you can buy 1200 buck Crowers and still hope for the best. The Chevrolet fire I mentioned was a stock 89 Jimmy that windowed the block for no apparent reason and severed the fuel line onto the exhaust. Freak accident I agree and I was able to save it from total loss but there are no guarantees is my point I guess. I could build it back milder but what’s the fun in that?

You had stated that it was a bit much for the street. I guess you changed your mind since you posted that.

[64speed]

Originally Posted by grivera

Are you keeping the BB Chevy rockers for the new build?

I will leave that to Wayne’s discretion because I will reuse everything I can within reason

[grivera]

Originally Posted by 64speed

I will leave that to Wayne’s discretion because I will reuse everything I can within reason

I would recommend Crowers or Harland Sharps for [Pontiac] in case geometry had anything to do with it.

[64speed]

Originally Posted by geeteeohguy

[/B]
You had stated that it was a bit much for the street. I guess you changed your mind since you posted that.

You’re right, I waffled and I’m man enough to admit it. My father in law said it was too “rowdy” but it idled good, pulled 15 pounds of vacuum, got 14 mpg with that overdrive and Ran like a raped ape. I was just getting the kinks out when this happened. The cheapest thing besides a flat tappet is letting Isky fix it for 225. Not a lot of cams I can pick that will do all that and be such an overall package. By the way what happened to GTOFREEK. He’s the one that spec’d it for me

[b-man]

I’m wondering if perhaps a switch to a solid flat tappet cam might be an option for long term durability.

I know they are expensive but maybe some tool steel lifters could be utilized to eliminate what seems to be the hit or miss quality of roller lifters and subsequent failures on street driven vehicles.

[Gach]

If GTOFREEK spec the cam, you can bet it’s a good one and not a lifter bore destroyer. Yeah once you have that power it’s hard to go back. The power is addictive. My advice make sure lifter bore area is cleaned and maged real good, which I’m he will anyway.

[Dragncar]

Originally Posted by b-man

I’m wondering if perhaps a switch to a solid flat tappet cam might be an option for long term durability.

I know they are expensive but maybe some tool steel lifters could be utilized to eliminate what seems to be the hit or miss quality of roller lifters and subsequent failures on street driven vehicles.

Or solid roller with these. They have a pretty indestructible reputation and with a street cam would last a long time.
Price went up though, I paid 1000$ for mine.

https://vincentperformance.com/shop/bam-b-2030-16-bb1/

[64speed]

How high should my worry level be about valve to piston contact

[Gach]

Not high at all, usually something on a 112 has plenty of piston to valve clearance and most likely it would be on a 112. For street ability

[Gach]

You can run solid rollers on the street guys been doing it for years, with no issues.

[Gach]

They are not nosey yes they require maintenance, but it’s not a big deal. It’s basically checking valve lash, once the initial set up is done. Something to definitely think about, but I definitely wouldn’t go with a bush lifter.

[Gach]

Yeah now you got allot of things floating around in your head.

[tom s]

Remember!When you put solid rollers in a hyd roller cam it becomes a solid roller cam!You tight lash them at 6 thou and put 200lb on the seats.Ran them for years,had a needle bearing failure that I caught before it spit them out.The lifter body just kissed the lobe but saved it.Had the Isky lifters rebuilt and ran for a couple years before I put the sissy lifters on the cam.The solids will also make the cam smaller by about 8 degrees and the loss of lift at the valve depending on rocker ratio.No free lunch.No cam maker recommend it just say it can be done.They say just get a tight lash solid roller cam where the ramp is designed for solids.Carry on!Tom

[Gach]

Just go with a good street solid roller and be done with it.

[Gach]

64 Speed, what’s it going come down to is how handy are you in adjusting your own valve lash.

[64speed]

Originally Posted by Gach

Not high at all, usually something on a 112 has plenty of piston to valve clearance and most likely it would be on a 112. For street ability

It’s on 112

[Gach]

Yeah and no doubt you have plenty of piston to valve clearance. The tight lobes like 108 -106 is were you get into piston to valve clearance.

[Joe's Garage]

Since you've already sacrificed one block, spend the $$ and get one of those 'Big Braces' that were posted about in this thread:
https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...d.php?t=836832

Get THAT installed in your new block and you will absolutely NEVER blow the lifter bores off. EVER.

With the amount of money you have invested in your car, this will be just another drop-in-the-bucket. 'The cost of doing business'. Cheap insurance.

And definitely get the rev-limiting setup installed, too.

Good luck!

[Dragncar]

The BAM solid roller lifters with the DLC option actually are the same bodies as the old Crane Ultra-Pro lifter. A VERY high quality roller lifter. I just verified it with the guy I bought them from.
A whole step above any needle bearing solid roller short of a Jessel which are the gold standard.
If big boy 1000+ HP engines can not hurt the BAM DLC lifter after 2-3 seasons without lash changine no street engine is going to hurt them.
Most, well all of them except the BAM DLC lifter run a bronze bushing which is relatively soft, can break under high spring pressure and does wear changing lash requiring more maintenance.
I mean, twin turbo 7 second street Pontiacs run them so you think any street "old faithful" cam is going to hurt them ? Never, unless the builder did something wrong.

[68WarDog]

Guess I've been lucky with 15 years of an aggressive street solid roller, BUT yearly maintenance of checking lash (.022 cold/ .026 hot) UD R81/R88 .3883 lobes. 254/262#.050, .582 with 1.52 HS. Crower solid roller lifters with added high oil pressure feeding hole to needle bearings. Comp 943 pacaloy roller spring seat pressure 240. Springs routinely changed out every 4/5 years, when previously running 1.65 HS.. I've always considered the trade off of running a heavy hydraulic roller versus the lighter solid roller. My guess has been if turning 6k the weight of those hydraulic roller has got to be into consideration, And if I ever decide to run a hydraulic roller I'm wanting at least 155-165 seat pressure. Butler Mega brace.