#1201  
Old 01-27-2020, 12:50 PM
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I was getting a little interference so I put THIS over the tach wire for the Fitech and grounded ONE end. Problem solved.

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  #1202  
Old 01-28-2020, 01:12 AM
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FrankieT/A FrankieT/A is offline
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Car was idling and just stalled
Fault code "No tach signal"
Changed to carb and tach still works...

I have had tach noise issue before but the car still ran.
Changed back to FI Tech same problem. Car won't run.

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1978 Black & Gold T/A [complete 70 Ram Air III (carb to pan) PQ and 12 bolt], fully loaded, deluxe, WS6, T-Top car - 1972 Formula 455HO Ram Air numbers matching Julep Green - 1971 T/A 455, 320 CFM Eheads, RP cam, Doug's headers, Fuel injection, TKX 5 Spd. 12 Bolt 3.73, 4 wheel disc. All A/C cars
  #1203  
Old 01-28-2020, 01:19 AM
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Where are you taking the tach signal from?

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  #1204  
Old 01-28-2020, 09:39 AM
1funride 1funride is offline
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Been there done all of this with noisy tach signal issue with my install. A tach is designed to smooth out the signal and cannot display or even show any indication of a dirty tach signal. The EFI reacts very quickly to the tach signal and run quality will suffer. The FITECH display running in RPM mode can show dips in the tach signal and no signal, you can get an indication of a noisy signal. Many things play into the mix such as ballast resistors if pulling it from the coil, the coil is the WORST place to get it from and I cant stress enough to use a generated tach signal from a capable distributor or an MSD box. THEN you need good clean dedicated power and a single point ground for all components to connect to, AND the ground should go directly back to the battery. Every EFI install should have the above. Tie the engine in also. Just my 2 cents worth.

  #1205  
Old 01-28-2020, 11:59 AM
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Scott65 Scott65 is offline
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IF you're getting it from the coil, that would be a problem. MSD tach output makes a good clean signal, but still should be routed away from noisy circuits. If that's not an option, there are signal generators available, though I have no personal experience with them. Maybe someone else can comment on a good one if you have the need.

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'65 Tempest 467 3650# 11.30@120.31
  #1206  
Old 01-28-2020, 12:45 PM
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This doesn't seem to be a noise issue. It's not a noise fault code. Its "no tach signal". It's running off an HEI. It has been like that for years on two separate cars. Never an issue til now. This particular car was running fine for months. Out of the blue this happened
Pulled it out of the garage, left it idling and it just stalled. It was even idling fine til it stalled. Weird...I guess I'm gonna have to give them a call. I have two of these systems and not really interested in a high dollar repair. Edelbrocks Pro Flo 4 is looking attractive, with direct port and all. I won't have to worry about manifold wetness anymore. Sheesh!

Sent from my SM-J727T1 using Tapatalk

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1978 Black & Gold T/A [complete 70 Ram Air III (carb to pan) PQ and 12 bolt], fully loaded, deluxe, WS6, T-Top car - 1972 Formula 455HO Ram Air numbers matching Julep Green - 1971 T/A 455, 320 CFM Eheads, RP cam, Doug's headers, Fuel injection, TKX 5 Spd. 12 Bolt 3.73, 4 wheel disc. All A/C cars
  #1207  
Old 01-28-2020, 12:50 PM
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Why does there seem to be a problem with FiTech at every turn? I have gotten to the point of removing it from my GTO and replacing it with something else. Half the price is not worth it in my opinion.


Last edited by napster; 01-28-2020 at 01:07 PM.
  #1208  
Old 01-28-2020, 01:29 PM
JLMounce JLMounce is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankieT/A View Post
This doesn't seem to be a noise issue. It's not a noise fault code. Its "no tach signal". It's running off an HEI. It has been like that for years on two separate cars. Never an issue til now. This particular car was running fine for months. Out of the blue this happened
Pulled it out of the garage, left it idling and it just stalled. It was even idling fine til it stalled. Weird...I guess I'm gonna have to give them a call. I have two of these systems and not really interested in a high dollar repair. Edelbrocks Pro Flo 4 is looking attractive, with direct port and all. I won't have to worry about manifold wetness anymore. Sheesh!

Sent from my SM-J727T1 using Tapatalk
Out of curiosity, have you checked the HEI module to see if it's sending a tach signal? I'm assuming you probably have a tach already hooked up to it as well. The first thing I'd do is unhook any tach that's currently running along side to see if that changes anything. I'd also verify at the main harness that nothing has happened with the tach wire that could be shorting it out, or not connected at all.

Quote:
Originally Posted by napster View Post
Why does there seem to be a problem with FiTech at every turn? I have gotten to the point of removing it from my GTO and replacing it with something else. Half the price is not worth it in my opinion.
This is really not the case. You'll find these same complaints on basically every single type of injection system, regardless of manufacturer. The complaints are simply more visible because people need help and are actively looking for answers. The guys that install these and never have a problem aren't posting about them. I personally have two of them operating well on two different vehicles.

That's certainly not to say that there can't be issues with the product, it is mass produced after all and there will be some bad units. Often, there's something in the install, or going on elsewhere with the car that is causing or contributing to issues that a person may be having.

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  #1209  
Old 01-28-2020, 05:31 PM
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3 years & 14,500 miles on my Fitech. A few little issues in the beginning, but going strong ever since.

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  #1210  
Old 01-28-2020, 07:35 PM
1funride 1funride is offline
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Maybe the HEI is the problem and the fitech is accurately indicating it. Mine has been in for years and I havent had any issues. Anyone looking to unload FITECH units at scrap prices please let me know.

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