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  #21  
Old 02-06-2019, 05:04 PM
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adynes adynes is offline
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Another good option would be to retrofit a late model OEM module. Especially since you already have a new tank. Lots of benefits to this. Bucket style modules keep the pump submerged at all times for better cooling and you don't have to worry about fuel slosh. The bucket is kept full by a built-in venturi pump. Another plus is replacment parts availability, whether you need something in a hurry on a road trip, or long term. Who knows how long some of these aftermarket parts will be supported.

I used a module from a 2004 Flex fuel Tahoe. Carter brand, ~$50 from eBay. Seems to be the equivalent of a 255lph.

Downside is you have to cut and weld on the tank. Not a big deal if you're decent with fabrication. You can retain your existing fuel level sender or modify the one on the module (have to remove and jumper one resistor, and add another in parallel)
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Last edited by adynes; 02-06-2019 at 05:24 PM.
  #22  
Old 02-06-2019, 05:21 PM
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Originally Posted by adynes View Post
Another good option would be to retrofit a late model OEM module. Especially since you already have a new tank. Lots of benefits to this. Bucket style modules keep the pump submerged at all times for better cooling and you don't have to worry about fuel slosh. The bucket is kept full by a built-in venturi pump. Another plus is replacment parts availability, whether you need something in a hurry on a road trip, or long term. Who knows how long some of these aftermarket parts will be supported.

I used a module from a 2004 Flex fuel Tahoe. Carter brand, ~$50 from eBay. Seems to be the equivalent of a 255lph.

Downside is you have to cut and weld on the tank. Not a big deal if you're decent with fabrication. You can retain your existing fuel level sender or modify the one on the module (have to remove and jumper one resistor, and add another on parallel)
My son actually wants the stock tank I have in it for a 66 he is working on. So a new EFI ready tank from Tanks Inc seems like the easiest route, unless I can get some positive feedback on the Holley Muscle Car Sending Units. One thing nice about the Tanks Inc tank is that it has a built in 4.8L fuel reservoir the pump sites in which keeps it in fuel.
Thanks for the information, I will definitely keep it in mind as an option.
Dale

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  #23  
Old 01-22-2020, 05:52 PM
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Just wanted to update this thread. I did the EFI conversion and went with the Holley Muscle Car Module, https://www.holley.com/products/fuel...s/parts/12-302 and the install of the module was very simple. It made one of the worst parts of the upgrade the easiest. So far it is performing very well. I even ran the tank down to 1/4 and did some hard accelerations and there was no issues. Even at max throttle and high RPMs the unit has no problems giving the EFI what it needs. It is also designed to work with the Holley Sniper so they are a good match. I also highly recommend the Holley Sniper and Hyperspark distributor, great upgrade.

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  #24  
Old 01-22-2020, 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by JLMounce View Post
What type of driving do you do with the car? If you partake in driving that can result in the pickup being uncovered, unlike with a carb that you have the bowl to help you out, you don't have that with EFI. It's why EFI tanks have built in sumps and baffles to prevent fuel slosh and keep the pickup covered during all driving maneuvers.

If the car is only ever cruised around, doesn't see hard launches or anything like that, you can probably get away with it. If you drive the car spiritedly you'll likely need to keep the tank at least about half full at all times.

I run a Tanks Inc setup in my bird and it's absolutely as good as it sounds. Hard acceleration, braking, hard cornering, even below 1/4 tank I've never had fuel starvation with my setup. Like you I tried saving a couple hundred at first on the fuel system, only to fight the car, end up tearing it out and doing what I should have done in the first place, which is the EFI ready tank and fuel pump.
I run a Walbro 255 and a Vette regulator on the frame of my T/A, and use the stock sending unit as my fuel pickup.

I wheel the hell out of it, and haven't experienced any fuel starvation, but I also dont run it down to E. I have had it down close to an 1/8th before, and it's been fine. That said, there are some cars where the tanks just can't help sucking up air if they have less than a 1/2 tank.

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  #25  
Old 01-24-2020, 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by JLMounce View Post
I would recommend the new tank, it's the best option. What you can do however is run the corvette regulator/filter combination. You would then plumb EFI hose to that regulator from the tank, and back as the return. You can then use your existing 3/8 line to the Sniper and dead head it there.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/t...iABEgIbqvD_BwE

That way, you get the advantages of a true EFI ready tank and the ease of installation without a lot of hose that you get from the Holley fuel module.
X2 and Exactly what I am doing.

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  #26  
Old 01-26-2020, 01:15 AM
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Buy the Tanks brand directly from them and then get the float less gas sending unit for your gauge

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  #27  
Old 01-26-2020, 09:45 AM
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In my situation I had a brand new tank and system already installed and did not want to have to take it all out and spend the money replacing new items. I am just letting people know that this is a great option that works and really simplifies the entire process. Plus you don't have to run a return line. Now we will see how long it last. Hopefully I won't be back on here complaining the pump failed. If I had decided to do this back during the restoration, before installing my current system, I probably would have went with a tank and system designed for EFI with an in tank pump. That is another thing I like about the Muscle Car Module, it has an in tank pump and when you are driving you really can't hear it. You can hear it when it does the 5 second prime before you start the engine but once the engine is running you really can't hear it. Much better than an external pump.

Dale

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  #28  
Old 01-26-2020, 11:50 AM
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Seems like the biggest thing I'm reading here is everyone is trying hard to get away from running a return line the entire length of the car. That's really not very hard to do.

I'm one that prefers a full length return, and have the return as close to the carb or FI unit as possible so I'm constantly getting a cool shot of fuel that doesn't have time to heat up during those long idle and low cruise situations.

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