[70RAlll]

Sorry..not Rustoleum, Krylon Semi Flat Black. Here is an Amazon link. $7.74 can with Amazon's free shipping. They show cheaper at $5.99 but you pay shipping..


http://www.amazon.com/Krylon-RTA9203...emi+flat+black

[Formulabruce]

Originally Posted by 70RAlll

Sorry..not Rustoleum, Krylon Semi Flat Black. Here is an Amazon link. $7.74 can with Amazon's free shipping. They show cheaper at $5.99 but you pay shipping..


http://www.amazon.com/Krylon-RTA9203...emi+flat+black

looks like a very good choice

[Bentwheelbob]

Originally Posted by Formulabruce

This is why I always convert to Dot 5...
I have seen dot 3 eat through powder coat
The original crappy Alkyd Enamel ( vegetable oil based paint) paint didn't last long in this application, as put on thin, low resin, just to prevent rust at time of sale.
Should be able to nail it down anyways and make it right.
Finish: a Brake "weathering chart" for Alkyd enamel
New: gloss black 80%
1 year old semi gloss black
2 years old Spots of semi gloss and flat black
3 years old Flaking and spots of flat black and small spots of semi gloss
4 years old whats left mostly ruined by brake fluid in most areas and rusty looking
Good luck! Its winter, good time to nail this stuff down!

Bruce - I love your "Chronology of Correctness" on the master cylinder finish. Your right about winter being a great time to catch up. I've been doing a lot of catching up over the holidays, having abandoned most of my work responsibilities. In addition to tooling around on some of the nit picky stuff on the Black Car, I have hung the Pontiac sign that I bought at Mecum last May (isn't that pitiful being that lazy), and also done a few things on the Green Truck that has its' own thread in the lobby. I have an electrical problem on the truck and if any of you electrical experts have any good advice I would appreciate the help. Here are a few pics of the "new" sign and the link to the truck thread. The last truck post #89 highlights my electrical issue.

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...=727561&page=5

Originally Posted by 70RAlll

That Master looks like sh!t, no idea why it would have been done that glossy.. As far as the leaking..I think I have an idea why it is leaking. It is clear the bore has been sleeved with a brass liner.Two materials are used as sleeve liners, stainless or brass. Both work well, but the brass can be hard on the new seals when installing them. If you don't lubricate the rubber seals on the primary and secondary pistons during re assembly you will end up ripping them while installing them. I bet if you remove the primary and secondary pistons you will find some of the seals are ripped. I have used both stainless and brass sleeves- never seen a sleeve job not work...always the seals not the sleeve work. Brass always damages the seals if they and the bore are not heavily lubricated when assembling. NAPA or Ames/PY's will sell you a kit that has the new seals, simple to replace. And for the black paint, go on Amazon and search Rustoleum Semi Flat Black. That is the closest shade and quality paint, costs +/- $10 a can. That gloss just looks out of place in the engine compartment. Seems like someone's good idea gone bad on that black gloss finish..

Bill - I love the way you get right to the point. No doubt what you are thinking. That's a good thing. My Pal Dave had the same diagnosis as you on the master cylinder and was anxious to tear into it to see what they screwed up. However, since it's only been 6 months since White Post rebuilt it we'll let them have another crack to get it right on their dime. Thanks for the paint recommendation.

If I don''t have any other minutiae to post before New Years, here's my best wishes that everyone have a happy and prosperous New Year. My life is enriched by having the PY online community to help me when I am on the wrong track and to tolerate me when I want to share my successes. Thanks guys.

[Bentwheelbob]

How cool is this....So My Pal Dave has a buddy that got to clean out all the parts inventory at a local auto repair place several years ago courtesy of the owners widow. This place had been in business for at least 40 years. MPD's buddy has just been tripping over about 12 totes of parts every since then, so MPD cut a deal to send the totes over here for some basic sorting. More laziness on my part as this was last spring, but finally I am on the case. The first tote I started through today has an NOS GM door handle for the Black Car. This is a part that will be needed for the big paint transformation, so I am feeling particularly celebratory. I am about out of GM parts in the 4 totes I have here, so this is probably my big score. The stack you see in the picture are the parts that I think have some value. I believe the best course is to call a couple of the internet shops that carry obsolete NOS parts and see if they have an interest. Does anyone know any of these folks well enough to make an introduction or recommendation?

[The Boss]

Chuck Henley, I'll text you his number. He's got a ton of 2nd gen F-Body stuff you could trade with him on as well.

BTW, anything in that pile I could use?

[Bentwheelbob]

Thanks. I have no idea what you can use, but given that you basically have a small car lot that is rapidly approaching hoarder status maybe. Some time when you have a day or so of free time list all the cars you currently own and I'll try to do a cross reference.

Happy New Year Chris. I hope you and the boys have had a good holiday.

My Best,

Bob

[The Boss]

Originally Posted by Bentwheelbob

Some time when you have a day or so of free time list all the cars you currently own and I'll try to do a cross reference.

Just a couple of goats & birds in the barn here Bob, nothing special.

Happy New Year!

[OVERULD]

Bob, you might also check with Rob Lozins in Chicago. He has a ton of second gen parts as well. PM me if interested and I'll get you his contact info.

BJ

[70RAlll]

Originally Posted by Bentwheelbob

How cool is this....So My Pal Dave has a buddy that got to clean out all the parts inventory at a local auto repair place several years ago courtesy of the owners widow. This place had been in business for at least 40 years. MPD's buddy has just been tripping over about 12 totes of parts every since then, so MPD cut a deal to send the totes over here for some basic sorting. More laziness on my part as this was last spring, but finally I am on the case. The first tote I started through today has an NOS GM door handle for the Black Car. This is a part that will be needed for the big paint transformation, so I am feeling particularly celebratory. I am about out of GM parts in the 4 totes I have here, so this is probably my big score. The stack you see in the picture are the parts that I think have some value. I believe the best course is to call a couple of the internet shops that carry obsolete NOS parts and see if they have an interest. Does anyone know any of these folks well enough to make an introduction or recommendation?

Yes I second that. Chuck Henley deals in these NOS parts but he is a Pontiac guy thru and thru.Owns the 69 GTO RAV that was a dealer race car,originally a RAIV that dealer ordered the V and used for racing. That's just one of his cars, so that is the best place to turn these NOS parts into cash.AT least in my opinion.

[70RAlll]

Bob.. Chuck just called me unrelated to your parts. I mentioned your post here and he is interested. He is a great guy, known by many in the Pontiac world. Gave him this link and he will be contacting you. Great resource for NOS parts you may need.He currently has 2 crates full of 68-76 Firebird parts that they are just now getting sorted out to sell. I am sure there are parts you will end up needing that he will have, I smell possible trades before he list the parts?? I know he will pay cash as well, so my comment about trading was just a thought.... Good luck..

[Bentwheelbob]

OK, time to come clean. Sort of like confession. I bought myself a second four post lift for Christmas. Kind of a Merry Christmas to me offset to the blue Tiffany box. I got it put together the Saturday before Christmas and after getting it adjusted and in position I couldn't wait to get a car on it and up in the air. At about the 10:30 that night the Red Car was loaded up and raised. I took it up, brought it down. Took it up again and brought it down again. Everything looked good, so I started taking it up to full elevation and that's when all h_ll broke loose.

The seal in the hydraulic cylinder failed and the whole car started coming down. The lift has safety guards for such a situation, and it sort of worked. The problem is that the drivers side rear was just high enough to catch to upper safety lock. The passenger side rear was enough lower that it came to rest 5" lower. The driver's front also settled on the lock 5" lower. By this time the whole lift was twisting and had become unstable. I was holding onto the front driver's side leg trying to keep a total collapse from occurring. Ultimately the passenger front locked in about 1.5' lower than the driver's rear. It was ugly. There was hydraulic fluid everywhere, I was holding onto the lift, my neighbor Ken was in shock, and the Red Car was about to go through the garage wall.

When all was said and done the whole mess stabilized, but barely. Each post was leaning about 20 degrees off of plumb and resting on only one corner of the base plate. I could have pushed it over with about 10lbs of force. Talk about a mess....I called My Pal Dave and MPD, my neighbor Ken and I quickly went to work. We secured the top of the posts using binder straps hooked to the ceiling bar joists. We also anchored a chain to the wall with Hilti anchors and secured straps between it and the bottom of the posts to keep them from kicking out. About 2:30am that morning I went to bed hoping that when I woke up the car would not be sticking through the garage wall.

Well I got up about 7:00am and the car was still standing. I called two fantastic neighbors over and we devised a plan of action. One of them had a good friend that runs the local All Crane branch. All Crane dispatched two of their best guys on a Sunday and they showed up with a 9000lb Fork Lift, a cube of crib timbers, chain hoists and a bunch of steel to bridge the bar joists. The other neighbor dispatched his best guy from the manufacturing facility he owns with more steel, chain falls and a service truck. Ultimately we secured the whole structure with chain falls, cribbed the rear of the lift solid, and used the fork lift to elevate and level the front of the car and lift. Once this was accomplished, we started lowering the whole thing 6" at a time. By 5:30 the car was on the ground and the only things damaged were my pride and pocket book.

The lift manufacturer stood tall and agreed to replace the lift. I spent the next weekend tearing down the old lift, and last weekend installing the replacement lift. All is now well. Here are some pictures of the mess.












Be careful and have great friends.

[njsteve]

Holy crap! Glad it all got fixed and the car is on the ground now.

[Formulabruce]

Have put together a couple of these with friends, and always use a small car and run it up and down a bunch of times to level the cables and stretch the cables too. I have feared this would happen a couple of times. Glad your ok, car is ok, and Im surprised the seller didnt just opt to replace the cylinder. Yours looks just like the "Tech Lift" .
thanks for posting

[FunctionalShaker]

That lift doesn't look very strong. Glad a disaster was averted.

[72TAMAN]

Holy crap how in the hell did you sleep that night I know even if I try to I wouldn't be able to sleep till that beauty was safe on the ground

[West Coast GTO]

Very glad you car is O.K.
I have wanted to buy one of these to make working and maintenance under my car easier. One question: does the manufacturer recommend or even require that the post bases be secured to the garage slab? Here in California, that would be essential due to the possibility of earthquakes but may not be common practice where you live.

A good friend here installed one similar to yours and had to have an x-ray company come out to x-ray the post cable tension garage slab before he could install anchor bolts. That was a good thing because right after the install, we had a 4.0 quake and the car rode that out like a champ!

[165th]

Wow, that must have been un-nerving. Glad everyone is safe, and the Indian Iron is not poking out the garage. I love your garage!

With the addition of the second 4 post, It looks like your making room to add to the nest!

[johnta1]

WOW!!!!

Glad it worked out OK.

[The Boss]

I was beginning to wonder if these pics would ever get posted!

New lift looks good!

[Judge273]

Proves that plumb and level is the best structure. They still work and hold a car in that mode is wild. Sorry it happened on your car. Dealer came thru quick?

What blew out again the plunger gasket? Any leaks beforehand? Any pix of that or causes? I know those are tested before delivery too..