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#1
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Samsung TV repair, worth it?
2015 model 60 in LCD HDTV. Backlight went out. Online research points to power supply board. Board costs $100 and is easily swapped at home. Anybody have long term success with repairs like these? Trying to figure out if worth it to sink $100 into it.
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1970 GTO 400 Atoll Blue, PS, PDB, A/C Was M20 4 speed, now has Keisler RS600 5 speed. |
#2
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A couple of years ago I had an LG 55" LED TV that developed a problem where the backlight would flash instantaneously when first turned on, then go black. I did some research and found the issue was likely one of two PCBs, and possibly a bad connection in the cables. I removed the back, cleaned and reconnected all of the cables, with no effect. Further research indicated that a problem on the more expensive circuit board have caused the cheaper board to fail. The tech I talked with recommended I replace both boards at the same time.
This happened about a month after the TV went out of warranty. I decided to put the repair money toward a new 60" Sony Bravia smart TV I ordered on Black Friday. It was the best thing to do. I think the TV was defective all along. Right after I bought it, the backlight went out. I called LG, and they told me to remove the plug from the back of the TV (and not at the AC outlet), let it sit for at least one minute, then plug it back in. I'm really not sure why unplugging at the TV was different from unplugging at the wall outlet, but it seemed to make a difference. I couldn't find any kind of sensor on the TV receptacle, but unplugging and resetting seemed to work. At least until about a month after the warranty expired and it no longer worked. I'll never buy another LG product. I feel they strung me along until it went out of warranty. |
#3
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I assume the backlight for your 2015 Samsung is a series of LEDs. I believe they stopped using CCFLs before then.
Several years ago my 50" Insignia plasma went dark. Google search pointed to a blown capacitor for that model. Purchased a pack of new ones for about $10 IIRC, soldered the replacement in (might have replaced 2 of them) and the TV still working great today. Bought the TV in mid 2009. Was my only TV until 15 months ago, now relegated to secondary use, but still averages a handful of hrs/week. Plasma had better picture quality but they are no longer produced. If my plasma eventually dies, I won't be too disappointed though. Given the cost of new TVs now, they've pretty much entered the realm of throwaway electronics. Watch this Samsung repair video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bPGkPrhBvBo Guy seems to know his stuff. It might convince you NOT to start by replacing the board at a cost of $100. If it is a backlight blown LED issue, the new board won't fix it. If you are courageous and want to troubleshoot before you start throwing money at the problem, do what this guy has done. If it is a failed LED, the trick will be to remove the screen without breaking it. I once tried to replace the CCFL backlight on a laptop. I probably didn't really have the patience but also not the skills. In the end, I came close to getting it fixed but close wasn't good enough. I don't recall what went wrong in the reassembly, but I broke the replacement backlight and had to give up. Laptop was junked. I'm the type that will always try to fix something even when the appliance or electronic device is really not valuable enough to justify it. I have an Aiwa compact stereo on a work bench all disassembled right now waiting for me to install new drive belts for the dual cassette and 6 disc CD changer. Radio works and sounds great. Came with the house we bought. Don't really need it but figured I would see if I could get the CD changer working. No hurry, took it apart in March. Got the belts a couple months ago. Might eventually get it back together. So I would give the TV a shot hoping it was a blown LED and fix it for nothing. But prepared to toss it if the repair went south. Just my Oh, and one thing that has worked for me to keep an HP Deskjet 4500 series printer going. Bad solder joints were a known "defect" that would cause it to stop working. Pull out the circuit board and bake it at 350 in the oven for about 1/2 hr. Apparently the oven heat gets the solder to reflow enough to get it working again. I have done this procedure 3 times, maybe 4, the printer now 9 years old. Last time I cooked it a little longer and hotter and has not malfunctioned in at least 3 years now. Don't know if you could bake the boards in your Samsung but if solder joints are an issue, might help. |
The Following User Says Thank You to John V. For This Useful Post: | ||
#4
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John,
Thank you for your extensive reply and the link. I will watch tonight. Yes, it is an LED and that is the other likely cause. I just didn't research the trouble shooting of the LED.
__________________
1970 GTO 400 Atoll Blue, PS, PDB, A/C Was M20 4 speed, now has Keisler RS600 5 speed. |
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