[gtorich]

Thought i would start a new post, my original post was replacing lower control arm with a aftermarket one...........was checking under the car today to make sure i got everything straight in my head, then i noticed this bolt, no way thats coming out with the header in the way..........other issue i see even if i didnt replace the lower arm, i dont think it would swing down without hitting the header, so im running out of options.

Never took a header off the car with the motor in it............was wondering if i could loosen it up some and move it around.........drivers side........then maybe get the bolt out.

Anyone have any luck removing dougs headers from a 66 Gto while motor is still in........could use the help on what to take off or move.

Couple pics of the bolt im talking about.

[JLMounce]

Is there enough room to get the nut off the other side and the bolt through the mounting hole on the opposite side? If there's enough room to make that happen, you can remove the opposite mount first and the rubber bushings will provide enough play to sneak that bolt out at and angle, in front of the header tube.

When re-assembling, switch out the direction of the bolt and put the nut on the side where you have header clearance issues.

If the arm won't swing down enough with the header tube in the way to allow the spring to completely relax and be pulled out of the arm by hand, you'll probably need to get a spring compressor to help you out, or barring that may need to go the route you mention and loosen up the headers to allow them to move out of the way a bit.

[Chris65LeMans]

Somebody put it in, right? Then it’ll come out. Remember- as you loosen the bolt, you can also pull the headers out. Do that one last.

[gtorich]

Originally Posted by Chris65LeMans

Somebody put it in, right? Then it’ll come out. Remember- as you loosen the bolt, you can also pull the headers out. Do that one last.

I get that, someone in 66 put it in, then someone put on headers, now it wont come out, i guess what im asking is can you get dougs headers out while the motor is in the car.

I guess worse case scenario is buy ram air manifolds and cut the headers off, really dont want to go this route.

Rich

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by JLMounce

Is there enough room to get the nut off the other side and the bolt through the mounting hole on the opposite side? If there's enough room to make that happen, you can remove the opposite mount first and the rubber bushings will provide enough play to sneak that bolt out at and angle, in front of the header tube.

When re-assembling, switch out the direction of the bolt and put the nut on the side where you have header clearance issues.

If the arm won't swing down enough with the header tube in the way to allow the spring to completely relax and be pulled out of the arm by hand, you'll probably need to get a spring compressor to help you out, or barring that may need to go the route you mention and loosen up the headers to allow them to move out of the way a bit.

This.


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[gtorich]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

This.


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Ok, finally got everything out today, tried getting the bolt in from the other way as suggested, but the frame is in the way, will try a shorter bolt not sure of that though.

I can get a slimmer bolt in there, but not the right sized one.

This is my first time ever messing with the front suspension, not fun.

Rich

[HWYSTR455]

Oh dang, really? I guess it's hitting the tube? Or where? You may have to move the lower all the way down towards the floor to get it in there.

Are you going for a factory correct rebuild? I know the tubulars come with hardware, and should be able to slip those in with the arm all the way towards the floor.

Just remember to replace the ball joints if you use the offshore tubular arms. You can use the uppers if you want, but for some reason I recall there's no benefit from using the upper (geometry), not sure if they are worse than the OE uppers or not. (I usually just get the Global West arms and sell the offshore uppers, they go quick on eGay.

The lower arms also come with an updated/upgraded sway bar end.

The ones Right Stuff used to carry are the ones to get, and am seeing them offered by Speedway now.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speed...UaAo41EALw_wcB

AMP has them on eGay for less:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1964-1972-C....c100005.m1851

For $267, it's a deal, even if you have to swap the ball joint. You can prob get $100-$140 for the uppers making the lowers even that much less.

Due to the headers, you may have to drop them to install, sorry to say, regardless of which arms you use.

Anti-seize the crap out of the bolts so they don't get hung in the bushing sleeve. Believe me, you fight with that once, and you will NEVER forget to use anti-seize again!

EDIT: Anti-seize the entire length of the bolt shafts.

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[HWYSTR455]

What body are you working with again?


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[HWYSTR455]

Measure the lower bolt lengths, if you need new ones, I'm sure I have a couple extra sets, and can send you some for free.

Not sure what uppers you have there in that one pic, but suspect the replacement uppers with the kit would be better.


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[gtorich]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

Measure the lower bolt lengths, if you need new ones, I'm sure I have a couple extra sets, and can send you some for free.

Not sure what uppers you have there in that one pic, but suspect the replacement uppers with the kit would be better.


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Hey HWY, cant remember for sure, will look it up, but thought you said something like that about my uppers when i posted a pic a year or so ago. Gotta get a close up, they do look kinda cool............im sure they were some kind of cheapy, was on the car when i got it 21 yrs ago.

I bought some spc uppers last year, didnt have the money for the lowers, and since i waited 4 months to get the uppers from SC&C, that was without the covid............thought it would take forever to get the lowers, so i got the lowers from UMI.......uppers have the howe bj, lowers have pro-forged.....0.9-0.5...upper & lower.

I got the hardware for the bolts with the kit, they are 4 inches long.........im thinking i can slip a 3 1/2 in there. When i had all the bolts out on the drive side header and pushed really hard my wife tapped it out, but it was tough.........

Another thought if i cant get it in from the reverse side, could i just grind a hair off each flat , once it clears the header no problem..........another thought, not sure of a allen heads strength, that might go in alot easier.

Enough of my babbling , watch some football.

Rich

[HWYSTR455]

I got a full selection of ARP bolts, I'm sure I have 3.5, prob 3.75, 4, and 4.25, if you get stuck, let me know, I will dig some out.

I also have hardware that came with some of the aftermarket control arms I've used in the past, regular gold anodized grade 8 stuff, and an assortment of locking nuts. Just need a good idea of what you need if you get stuck, and will shoot it to you.

This kinda stuff:

https://www.umiperformance.com/home/...ting-hardware/

Ah, the SPC and/or SC&C uppers are good, you should be fine. UMI lowers, They have the straight tubes, are those ok? Have you driven on those yet? I've seen them, but they don't seem to have the correct operating angle, but I could be wrong. It's been a while since I've looked at them. But if you've got them, use them, and if you have issues, just swap them when you can. I think they did that specifically due to the recommendation of the tall ball joints, but my brain is a little fuzzy on that right now. (bourbon!)

So if you try to grind or cut the bolts, if they discolor, that might not be good. I know many send bolts in 'popular' lengths to cut costs, so if you want to try some diff lengths, PM me, I will dig some out. Could even send you a couple diff lengths, just send back what you don't use.

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