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Old 10-24-2020, 01:07 AM
mike76 mike76 is offline
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Default Fired up my first rebuild tonight !

So far so good. 428 .060 over fired on the second rotation. Took it immediately to 2200 and varied the 30 minute break in 2000 - 2500 rpm. I made a booboo when about 10 minutes into break in I let the rpm drop to 1500 for about 3 seconds though. Thoughts on that?
It has #62 heads that flow over 250 cfm; 800 cfm holley ; forged internals and Voodoo 704 cam; rpm manifold and 1 3/4 headers. Any guesses on HP and Torque?
Coolant temp stayed rock steady @ 150 degrees with a 160 thermostat. Too low? Also the hot oil pressure was at 45 # @ 2300 rpm with a 60# pump using Royal Purple 10w30 break in oil. Bearing clearances are: mains .0024 - .0026" rods .0024".
Comments?
Mike

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Old 10-24-2020, 01:26 AM
Dragncar Dragncar is offline
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Bet you have a 475+ HP engine there, have fun with it. Your tires might not though.

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Old 10-24-2020, 01:38 AM
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Thoughts on you dropping it to 1500 rpm briefly? Don't sweat it.

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Old 10-24-2020, 05:55 AM
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Yes, don't fret over that minor drop in rpm during break in!

You did not post up at what lift you heads make it to 250 cfm at, and assuming you do not have 11.5 comp or better, my guess at your level of HP is 450 along with 480 ft lbs of torque.

You did not post up what you have for Rods in the motor, but if they are the factory ones then don't cruse at a steady rpm above 4200 and a safe shift point is 5700, although your Cam will be done by then.

Sounds like a nice build, enjoy!

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Old 10-24-2020, 08:55 AM
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Lobes wont cool down from a 3-second drop.

I followed a strick Cam lobe breakin and taking to the highway was a good part of that.

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Old 10-24-2020, 03:06 PM
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One thing I noted: My fuel pressure was at 6psi before I fired her up. Then as it got up to operating temp it was down to about 4 1/4# at 2400 rpm. I have a Carter electric pump near the tank and a Carter M6907 mechanical. Both pumps were running and I was using a Summit brand fuel gauge. Isn't that kind of low? Maybe i need the Carter RV electric with the by pass kit? Thanks for the resp. Mike


BTW: scat rods and Ross pistons. 9.6 cr. head flow 253@ 550 lift

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Old 10-24-2020, 03:35 PM
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Congrats Mike on a really cool build! As far as fuel pressure what is your fuel system from tank to carb and what kind of gauge and where is it? I had a similar fuel pressure issue and you should be able to drive on the street no problem

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Old 10-24-2020, 05:51 PM
mike76 mike76 is offline
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Thanks Chris! Here is a pic of the fuel pressure gauge. 3/8 " line from tank to carb with filter about 12" from carb inlet
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Old 10-24-2020, 06:48 PM
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Sounds like an awesome, awesome build! Congratulations!

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Old 10-24-2020, 09:36 PM
gtospieg gtospieg is offline
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not sure I would trust the summit gauge

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Old 10-25-2020, 06:11 AM
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Cam lobes cooling off?
You have a strange thought process going on there Man!!

The OP needs to understand that electric pumps can not suck up fuel, they need to be gravity feed and the level of fuel in your tank during the break in session might of been right on the edge for doing that in terms of the receeding fuel pressure you noted.

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And he was not talking about 1/8 or 1/4 mile ETs!

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Two dry rotted 14 x 10 Micky Thompson slicks.

1) un-mailed in gift coupon from a 1972 box of corn flakes.
Two pairs of brown leather flip flops, never seen more then 2 mph.

Education is what your left with once you forget things!
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Old 10-25-2020, 10:49 AM
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Do you have a pressure regulator? I tried several different pumps and regulators and what finally worked was a good bypass regulator with 1/2" lines and in tank pump. I think having the gauge inside the car was most helpful. Dropping pressure at 2400 sounds real low but take it out on the street and see how it does.

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Old 10-25-2020, 05:23 PM
mike76 mike76 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OCMDGTO View Post
Do you have a pressure regulator? I tried several different pumps and regulators and what finally worked was a good bypass regulator with 1/2" lines and in tank pump. I think having the gauge inside the car was most helpful. Dropping pressure at 2400 sounds real low but take it out on the street and see how it does.
No pressure regulator needed as my pumps max pressures are under the Holley max recommended. I've thought of putting a Marshall fuel gauge in the car away from heat but don't like the idea of a leak or fumes getting in the car. Any ideas or recommendations? Mike

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Old 10-25-2020, 05:33 PM
mike76 mike76 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steve25 View Post
Cam lobes cooling off?
You have a strange thought process going on there Man!!

The OP needs to understand that electric pumps can not suck up fuel, they need to be gravity feed and the level of fuel in your tank during the break in session might of been right on the edge for doing that in terms of the receeding fuel pressure you noted.
Good points Steve. On my inline electric I'm using the Carter mounting bracket mounted on the rear face of the trunk near the differential . Couple that with only 5 gallons of gas in the tank . I wonder if using the Carter bypass kit that comes with the RV pump be a good idea. If so does anybody have a bypass kit they like to sell me? ) This is in a 76 T/A.


Last edited by mike76; 10-25-2020 at 05:48 PM.
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Old 10-25-2020, 05:40 PM
mike76 mike76 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PDC View Post
Sounds like an awesome, awesome build! Congratulations!
Thanks for the congrats ! Still have a bit of work left to do on the car so don't know if I'll be able to get it out before the cold sets in. Looking for a pumped up driving experience. Mike

  #16  
Old 10-26-2020, 08:34 AM
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HWYSTR455 HWYSTR455 is offline
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Those gauges that mount on fuel rails are rarely right for long, and vary when hot. Don't trust it. Check it when it's cold and see what it reads.

Things I would look at are:

-Is the tank properly vented?
-Good power source for e-pump?
-Use at least a 1/2 a tank of gas always
-Rubber fuel line clamps tight?
-Lines run close to any heat sources?


.

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Old 10-26-2020, 09:12 AM
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Those small fuel pressure gauges are notorious for unreliability. Especially the oil filled ones. You might help it by pulling the rubber plug from the back of the gauge and draining the oil. That has helped for me in several setups. Cheap or not so cheap Chinese gauges are junk and almost everybody sells them. \

I would not put a mechanical gauge in the car. I don't like pressurized fuel spray in the car. Get an electric ( I have not had good luck with these either ) or just get a reliable gauge for the fuel rail and check for proper performance. With a new correctly set up and working system, it should work fine.

Billk

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Old 10-26-2020, 10:11 AM
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I don't know if they still make it but my SW electric pressure gauge worked fine, you just need to make sure they have a good ground which I did by soldering a ground wire to its case as in this photo.
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Wernher Von Braun warned before his retirement from NASA back in 1972, that the next world war would be against the ETs!
And he was not talking about 1/8 or 1/4 mile ETs!

1) 1940s 100% silver 4 cup tea server set.

Two dry rotted 14 x 10 Micky Thompson slicks.

1) un-mailed in gift coupon from a 1972 box of corn flakes.
Two pairs of brown leather flip flops, never seen more then 2 mph.

Education is what your left with once you forget things!
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