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  #21  
Old 05-30-2010, 06:21 PM
smakcruiser smakcruiser is offline
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hmmm. I didnt know. I plumbed an oil gauge where the dummy lite goes. Now I can't wait to get home from work to look.

  #22  
Old 05-30-2010, 06:30 PM
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Did you plumb it in conjunction with the light sender or did you put it in replacement of the sender?? Leave the oil light sender in & plumb the gage next to the dist. You will get a truer oil pressure reading there.

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  #23  
Old 05-30-2010, 06:31 PM
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I plumbed mine there because it was easy. I found out later that that is the best place. haha

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  #24  
Old 05-30-2010, 06:32 PM
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No. I took the the sender out. I was getting around 42-44 psi when it was idling from there. I'll re-do it then and put that sender back in.

  #25  
Old 05-30-2010, 06:53 PM
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That's a good looking car. I like the steel slots, haven't seen a set of those in years that were any shape at all.

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  #26  
Old 05-30-2010, 07:20 PM
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Another thing I am somewhat cocerned with is the valley pan. I believe it is bowed a bit, I used the right stuff to seal it up the best I could. I don't believe it should leak, but who knows.

  #27  
Old 05-30-2010, 08:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike nixon View Post
That's a good looking car. I like the steel slots, haven't seen a set of those in years that were any shape at all.
Yeah, the slotted mags and the tire proportions look really cool on that car. Never seen that on a Big Pontiac before.

Give us some interior Pics too! Cool car. Glad your dream came to fruition.

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  #28  
Old 05-31-2010, 02:00 AM
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Check the brake and fuel lines for rusting through.

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  #29  
Old 05-31-2010, 11:59 AM
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Here are more pics
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  #30  
Old 05-31-2010, 12:02 PM
smakcruiser smakcruiser is offline
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A pic of my brake job.
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  #31  
Old 05-31-2010, 02:53 PM
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If you can't tweak your valley pan enough to get it close, you should be able to find one on craigslist for next to nothing or maybe free, their are a million of those, but that year has the pcv hole toward the rear, a few years later it was moved toward the front, don't know when and it doesn't matter if you're not doing a restoration, just use longer hose.

You can put an add in the classifieds here and may be able to score salvage parts for little to nothing.

  #32  
Old 05-31-2010, 03:04 PM
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I've got one from a 62 or 63 you can have if you want it.

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  #33  
Old 05-31-2010, 09:44 PM
smakcruiser smakcruiser is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poison heart View Post
I've got one from a 62 or 63 you can have if you want it.
Awesome. How much would you want for it ? And is the PCV in the rear ?

  #34  
Old 06-01-2010, 01:19 AM
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62 63 valleys are different, take my word for it. They are not cut for the contour of the later intakes.

  #35  
Old 06-01-2010, 03:29 AM
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Oh, I don't see how the intake would matter since the valley doesnt hit the intake or the heads but I don't know. If you want it you can pay for shipping

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  #36  
Old 06-01-2010, 11:23 AM
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How long should this car take to warm up??? Seems to get to about 190 after about 4 minutes of idling.

  #37  
Old 06-01-2010, 11:56 AM
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Yep, i think it'll have to be a 65' and up valley pan. Different heads, slightly different contour.

  #38  
Old 06-02-2010, 01:14 AM
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The later valley pan edges are contoured to fit the edge of intake, older valley pans are cut straight so when you install intake it hits valley pan and bolt holes won't line up.

  #39  
Old 06-02-2010, 05:02 AM
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Matt,

Mine sat for 37 years. A new set of points was all it needed. Keep an eye on the water/antifreeze. Once the block gets heated and the the antifreeze starts to "reclean" the block, it may be a bit rusty or dirty.

Mike Nixon suggested I run the Shell Rottella (sp) oil in it... good call!

You may want to rebuild, or have rebuilt, the carb as the seasl there are likely dried out too.

I got about 5000 miles out of my engine before I replaced it and the only issue I had was oil leaking from the dried gaskets. The lifters needed replaced also, but it ran fine when I pulled it. In the 5000 miles I drove it, by choice, I rebuilt the heads, carb, and replaced the water pump.

Just keep an eye on it and have fun with it.

-r-

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  #40  
Old 06-02-2010, 01:05 PM
smakcruiser smakcruiser is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 64catdroptop View Post
Matt,

Mine sat for 37 years. A new set of points was all it needed. Keep an eye on the water/antifreeze. Once the block gets heated and the the antifreeze starts to "reclean" the block, it may be a bit rusty or dirty.

Mike Nixon suggested I run the Shell Rottella (sp) oil in it... good call!

You may want to rebuild, or have rebuilt, the carb as the seasl there are likely dried out too.

I got about 5000 miles out of my engine before I replaced it and the only issue I had was oil leaking from the dried gaskets. The lifters needed replaced also, but it ran fine when I pulled it. In the 5000 miles I drove it, by choice, I rebuilt the heads, carb, and replaced the water pump.

Just keep an eye on it and have fun with it.

-r-
I replaced the points with the Pertronix Ignitor 2 and a new cap and rotor. I rebuilt the carb too, runs really good! I've only had it running on and off for maybe 20 minutes because I do not have a radiator fan on it. So I figure the thing would overheat within about 10 minutes without it. So far though, the fluid looks nice and green. Who knows what it will look like after a nice long run though.

I am having some white smoke originating from the passenger side header and a tiny bit from the driver side header. Only happens after car is warmed up. I did find out the valve covers were leaking and fixed that. So I am hoping that its still oil burning off the exhaust manifolds.

I've heard about using Shell Rotella. I put some Castrol 30w I had laying around in for now. I plan on changing it this week. What is good about the Rotella?

Matt

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