[poison heart]

My power wagon does that sometimes, especially with 4x4 in low. When you accelerate and then let off and it engine brakes it will smoke a little bit until you get back on it

[smakcruiser]

Originally Posted by poison heart

My power wagon does that sometimes, especially with 4x4 in low. When you accelerate and then let off and it engine brakes it will smoke a little bit until you get back on it

I am smoking a lot though. They are pretty decent sized clouds. My dad thinks who ever did the intake manifold might've done a shotty job (me), so he thinks coolant might be leaking in from there.

[joesbird]

I just went through this thread with a friend. he had the same exact problem with his big block. His solution was retorqing the intake bolts- fixed it immediately. He went around his intake three times in the pattern as described in his manual. His was 35 ft-lbs. The way he described it was on the deceleration - it was almost like a vacuum sucking the oil down into the cylinders. BTW- very cool car.

Joe

[smakcruiser]

Thanks!

So would you loosen them a bit and then re-torque them or just re-torque them as they are now?

[Engine-Ear]

MY $0.02...I would leave them as is and check torque on a cold engine. Then, start in the center and criss-cross your way out to the ends.

[joesbird]

I can ask him what he did, I'm thinking all he did was retorq from where they last were- but he's the expert- I'm just a messenger. Someone else may chime in-I can ask him at work in the morning and get back to you. It struck me because I remember him having some work done to his heads- putting them back on and having the problem you described. He had the intake and the heads off a number of times before someone said just retorq the intake again and it worked.

[mike nixon]

Diff between a pontiac and a BBC is the Chevy can suck oil up past the lower side of the gasket from the lifter area.

A pontiac will just suck air as the lifter galley is covered by a seperate pan.

Mike

[smakcruiser]

My plugs are covered in what appears to be a ton of dry carbon fouling. I wonder if thats contributing to the smoke.

[Engine-Ear]

dry carbon = running rich, no? I'd check your choke setting and jets.

[mike nixon]

Probably old fuel or just running fat.

If you didn't flush the tank it'll do this exact thing.

[smakcruiser]

I am running #68 jets in the front, and #73s in the rear. Its a manual choke. How far down on the jets should I consider going and how much would the secondaries influence the rich condition?

I am pretty sure coolant at this point, I am missing some from the radiator. Unless someone has a great idea I can try, I may end up just tearing it down.

Tank is was re-done with that Eastwood kit.

[mike nixon]

The radiator in these cars is made to run a couple of inches low in the tanks.

I'd still bet it's just fuel.


Mike

[smakcruiser]

Could the secondary power valve be causing the rich condition ??

[mike nixon]

yes.

[smakcruiser]

I have to lean it out some how. This is what I do know. The float levels in the bowls are right where they are supposed to be. I've tried multiple power valves(8.5, 6.5 and a 4.5) and I am not seeing any different results. I changed to some other metering blocks. I even put a metering plate in the secondary to see if having no power valve there would make a difference. Still running very rich at idle and under load.

I get a reading of 13 on my vacuum gauge, but others have stated that is normal because I am running a big cam.

Anyone have any ideas on what else I can try? Unfortunately, I do not have another carb to toss on there at this time. I have a 4150 750, but I need to put it back together first.

[azkeebler]

It sounds like you added quite a few parts. Is it possible you added brand new headers?? New headers need to burn off when first ran.

My only other thought on deceleration smoke is valve seals/guides. Bronze guides will smoke for a few miles.

Bad or worn valve seals will suck in oil on high vacuum situations and initial cold starts, and restarts when hot.

Rare, but possible brake fluid being sucked from ruptured power brake booster diaphragm? I didn't notice if you have power brakes or not. We had a '66 here have this issue.

If running good, I doubt it is coolant issue. You'd likely have a clean plug in suspected water injected cylinder.

[67 Lamnas]

Originally Posted by poison heart

Oh, I don't see how the intake would matter since the valley doesnt hit the intake or the heads but I don't know. If you want it you can pay for shipping

They don't work on the 65-later engines...

[67 Lamnas]

Originally Posted by smakcruiser

Sorry about the confusion. First time I've ever heard it run, so I was pretty excited ( I am 26). Nothing was done with the block or heads. Now I just can't wait to drive it!

If you didn't do anything to the heads, and you're getting smoke upon deceleration at high vacuum conditions, then the valve stem seals are likely all dried out and cracked from age/sitting........they are pretty easy to replace with the heads on the engine.....

[smakcruiser]

Originally Posted by azkeebler

It sounds like you added quite a few parts. Is it possible you added brand new headers?? New headers need to burn off when first ran.

My only other thought on deceleration smoke is valve seals/guides. Bronze guides will smoke for a few miles.

Bad or worn valve seals will suck in oil on high vacuum situations and initial cold starts, and restarts when hot.

Rare, but possible brake fluid being sucked from ruptured power brake booster diaphragm? I didn't notice if you have power brakes or not. We had a '66 here have this issue.

If running good, I doubt it is coolant issue. You'd likely have a clean plug in suspected water injected cylinder.

Thanks for the reply. I am using the stock exhaust manifolds that were on there. The car does not have power brakes.

I replaced the small little o-ring seals on the stems last week and that didn't change anything. Many of them were torn when I was taking them off, so my hopes were riding high this would solve it. No change in smoke, LOL.

I did not pull all the spark plugs, but the few I did pull show a rich condition. I gave one a friend of mine who is a mechanic, he says the car is getting way too much gas. I did everything I can think of on the carb to lean it out and no change. I am thinking I have a vacuum leak and its causing a power valve to be stuck open. The problem is its not exactly a black smoke that would clearly indicate rich, its a grey/bluish smoke, more grey than blue though.

I am also running straight 93 octane on the 092 heads, which comes as a shock to me. I figured it would run awful. I had been using 100 octane it, but it ran out of fuel, so I thought I would just see how it ran with 93 and ran exactly the same. Thats a bonus, now I don't need to spend 6.50 a gallon on gas

[BruceWilkie]

Originally Posted by Astock

Bypass the heater core before she blows.

That depends on alot of things. Its not an always fails must do thing!

Pressure test it, inspect for corrosion. My wifes 69 heater core is original(shes second owner bought car in 78 and knew original owner. Her father was the guy who regularly serviced the car for the original owner. Car still has original radiator too). I had it out during restore in 2004 but it went back in. Prior to retore coolant temps more than a few times 230+ with a 16lb radiator cap it never leaked then, doesnt leak now.
In 2006 we drove from NY to here in TN when we moved. Outside temps 90-100 degrees for 1000 miles including construction snarls etc. Car doesnt have a heater bypass.(non ac car) Car is nearing 400k miles has sat out upstate NY winters where -30f temps are not uncommon. No big deal if you change coolant every year. A few winters in its life no coolant because engine was out for rebuild/replace.

41 years old and heater and radiator are doing fine. A friends 37 international pickup now with sbc power still has original heater core and radiator. He replaced the original International motor a few years ago. Used to be his grandfathers truck and sat in a field since the 50's.