[Old Goat 67]

Originally Posted by Greg Reid

IF the carb is at least close to being right for that particular engine in the idle circuit Charles...If it's not, more head scratching to follow, almost guaranteed.
You're running original equipment so you may not know anything about the junk the rest of us are trying to cobble together...lol

I'm guessing you think I never fooled with junk? Like my son's 72 Chevy Blazer in the garage right now with only 73,000 miles? Just trying to dream about what took place for the last 44 years can give you a BAD dream! BUT, it is what it is!!!!

[67Twistytee]

Originally Posted by Old Goat 67

Remember, it's not about putting a man on the moon.

Ha! Sometimes I feel like it is.

Before I started down this path, the car always ran well if a bit warm. But with just the lights, I don't think the temp range was known with certainty. I don't plan to change anything significantly as long as I can get the timing right. I think the carb is tuned pretty close for this engine as the guy who put it back together has been doing this since the early 70s. It did, however, bog down when I pulled of the vacuum advance to check initial timing.

[Greg Reid]

I'm just jealous of that ORIGINAL OWNER '67 GTO you got there Charles.

[Old Goat 67]

OK Greg,

Been trying to call you, but all I get is voice mail. PM me with your correct #.

Charles

[Greg Reid]

You got it, I was just underground at the time. No signal.

[Old Goat 67]

Good talking to you. keep the faith!

[67Twistytee]

Is it possible to remove the breaker plate from the distributor without taking the whole assembly off the engine? I'm trying to swap out the vacuum advance and can't get to the screws under the plate. Also, the screw set for the points seems welded down and won't budge. I've tried some PB blaster but can't get it to turn. Any ideas on getting it to turn?

[Old Goat 67]

I don't think so. It's been so long I can't remember.

I have to go get my old distributor to remember. Be back.

[67Twistytee]

Of course this follows the section about removing the distributor from the block, but it would seem since you can change points without taking it out that I should be able to release the breaker plate while it's still in the block. Otherwise I need to put it all back together and crank it until I get cylinder 1 lined up.

Looking at page 6E-29 of the service manual, it says you need to remove the breaker points assembly first, then condenser, and then push down on vacuum advance to release it before removing the screws securing the breaker plate. Unfortunately, I can't get the breaker points hold down screw to budge and I'm mangling the slot in the head. Maybe I can get needle nose vice grips on it to turn it? I can't get regular vice grips on the head because the plate is in the way.

[67Twistytee]

Charles

I was finally able to back the screw out and release the vacuum advance. It's the original unit and although working, I think it was pegging out too high. I replaced it with VC1765, which should get me 16 degrees advance at max. I set up new points and condenser but now I'm not getting spark. I might have crimped the coil wire when working on the distributor. I'm headed out of town for a couple of days and will trouble shoot the ignition and timing when I get back.

Andy

[Greg Reid]

Condenser wire also is easy to pinch when you snap the distributor cap down. Been there, done that, rented a car to go out of town and felt like a dummy when I got back and it took all of 10 seconds to see what I'd done.

[GT182]

I think most of us have done that at one time or another..... if we actually admit to it. LOL I know I have. Worst thing is going back to the parts store for another condenser and tell what you'd done. Don't ya hate it when they chuckle and laugh at ya?

[67Twistytee]

Turned out to be a bad set of points. Never had that happen before. Tried two different condensers, gapped the new points with a feeler gauge and then with dwell meter on car. They would not fire. Power tested hot at the coil so I redid my ground wire thinking maybe some of the anti seize I used on the screws was affecting the ground. Still didn't work. Put the old points back in an it fired right up.

Anyways, I put on a new Hayden clutch, set my timing again and used MVA for the new vacuum advance can and bingo - car idled at 180 for 10 mins in the garage. I took it out for a 30 min drive and it stayed between 185 - 190 for the entire ride. I plan to tune the carb some more tomorrow and haven't driven it in the heat of the day yet, but here's hoping I'm out of the woods.

Thanks again to everyone that responded with ideas and trouble shooting tips. It's great to have a resource like this when trying to learn my way around these cars.

[Old Goat 67]