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Old 07-25-2021, 10:40 AM
sdbob sdbob is offline
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Default Modifying car jack stands with 1/4" pin hole,thoughts?

I returned my HF stands. I have 2 sets from NAPA.They look the same to me. I believe I mentioned this the last time about jack stands. I was thinking of drilling a 1/4" hole into stands for a pin so there would be no chance of slipping. I didnt want a bigger hole for keeping strength in unright. I was thinking just 2 holes for different heights I use. What would you guys do,think? Thanks.

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Old 07-25-2021, 10:52 AM
1965gp 1965gp is offline
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I think you will be fine drilling into the steel outer portion but the part the car sits on is often cast- I would be concerned about compromising the integrity of that piece drilling into it.

What is your concern? I don’t see how they can slip once the weight of the car is on them?

I did have an old pair of my dads where the entire item was made of steel. Those had pins at different heights

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Old 07-25-2021, 11:33 AM
sdbob sdbob is offline
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Yes drilling the cast upright is my concern. Funny when I was teenager, hey jackstands are the best, now I'm older, maybe somewhat wiser I have jackstands and other supports under car just to be safe.

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Old 07-25-2021, 11:39 AM
1965gp 1965gp is offline
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Same here- I have a jack, jack stands, a wheel if I am taking it off…. Anything to keep it from coming down on me!

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Old 07-25-2021, 01:06 PM
shermanator2 shermanator2 is offline
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I am not sure that putting a 1/4" pin will increase safety as much as you imagine. If the main ratchet fails, the shock loading when the load transfers to the pin might break it. I do not think that I would modify the stands. Pay more and buy stands that you trust, I get mine from Snap-On. Maybe they are the same, but at least I know I did not cheap out on something as important as jack stands. I buy a lot of stuff from Harbor Freight, but stop short of anything where safety of life is involved.

When I read about the original HF recall, I got the impression that the handles were made in such a way that they hit the body of the stand before the pawl fully engaged in the ratchet teeth. Inspect the stands that you have and make sure the handles cannot ever touch the body. Inspect that the pawl nicely engages into the teeth. That will go a long way to increasing the probability that your stands will not slip.

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Old 07-25-2021, 01:53 PM
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Ok. That's another way to look at the stands buy the best available, life is precious. I built 4 when I was 18 out of sq tubing and angle ,3/8 pin with holes. Thinking making 4 new ones out of 2" pipe,solid base.

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Old 07-25-2021, 10:35 PM
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Jack Gifford Jack Gifford is offline
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A couple of my tall jackstands were built from various driveshaft pieces, brake drums, and bracing rods 65 years ago. They use 1/2" bolts as pins- I wouldn't want any smaller than that.

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Old 07-25-2021, 11:51 PM
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I built 4 tall stands (range is 24-48 inches) out of 2 sizes of schedule 40 pipe (1 1/2, and 2 inch) 4 steel 14 inch rims, then used 3 pieces of 5/8 inch rebar to go from the outside edge of the rim to the outside pipe for stabilization. I used 1/2 inch pins for the height adjustment with holes drilled every 2 inches. I've used these to hold up my dually when I converted it from steel leaf springs to 4 link air ride. Empty the truck is in the 6,000# range. I'm very confident that they'll hold double that weight because I over engineered them to hold up my dually.

No one made what I needed, so I made them myself. They could easily be scaled down to a shorter stand if need be, but I needed something taller than conventional stands. There is no car that would ever be unsafe on them

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Old 07-26-2021, 01:16 AM
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I built 4 tall stands (range is 24-48 inches) out of 2 sizes of schedule 40 pipe (1 1/2, and 2 inch) 4 steel 14 inch rims, then used 3 pieces of 5/8 inch rebar to go from the outside edge of the rim to the outside pipe for stabilization. I used 1/2 inch pins for the height adjustment with holes drilled every 2 inches. I've used these to hold up my dually when I converted it from steel leaf springs to 4 link air ride. Empty the truck is in the 6,000# range. I'm very confident that they'll hold double that weight because I over engineered them to hold up my dually.

No one made what I needed, so I made them myself. They could easily be scaled down to a shorter stand if need be, but I needed something taller than conventional stands. There is no car that would ever be unsafe on them.

While we're on the subject of cheapy unsafe jack stands, don't ever use these crap stands that came about in the 60s.



They're made from a stick of tubing split into 3 legs with a strap spot welded between the legs. I've personally had one collapse when I had the GP race car in my signature pictures stripped out before I put the cage in the car. No engine transmission or interior in the car and the stand in the car collapsed overnight when no one was in the garage. I came into work the next morning and the car was sitting on the garage floor.

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Old 07-26-2021, 07:50 AM
sdbob sdbob is offline
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Thanks for the ideas. I'm not modifying any stands. I'm going to build 4 . Noticed the pipe stands with solid bases at a heavy duty 'concrete truck' garage. I'm going to take a 2nd look at their stands.

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Old 07-26-2021, 01:17 PM
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If you want to buy, not build, you may shop the 6 ton units.
I never used their capacity, but they will go higher, And they have a bigger, more stable footprint.
Cheap HF units. Keep in mind that there is no Shock rating for their cast rating, just a steady load.
Cast Iron is Cheap
Cast steel is expensive and much stronger, but still Castable.

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Old 07-27-2021, 09:47 PM
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check out tractor supply big red jack stands they have a safety key might give you an idea on what to do

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Old 08-02-2021, 05:16 PM
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Ok,thanks. In a dazed tired state from Norwalk. I use to go to Norwalk,show car Saturday, race Sunday, drive home , get in at 11pm then get up for work at 5.30. Now geez tired.

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Old 08-04-2021, 07:03 AM
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