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#1
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68 GTO Cowl paint
Are the sides of the front cowl, under the fenders painted body color, or are they black. I could swear I remember them being body color with a break to black before getting to the top surface.
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#2
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Body color with a break under the top of the fender.
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Ken '68 GTO - Ram Air II 464 - 236/242 roller - 9.5” TSP converter - 3.55 posi (build thread | walk around) '95 Comp T/A #6 M6 - bone stock (pics) |
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#3
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Good stuff. Having an original Black GTO, i was curious about the cowl paint and indeed it had gloss Black in both lower Cowl sides, behind the fenders.
Forgetful about what happened going up to the Fender tops. |
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#4
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I don't have a great pic, but here's where the break is on my car.
__________________
Ken '68 GTO - Ram Air II 464 - 236/242 roller - 9.5” TSP converter - 3.55 posi (build thread | walk around) '95 Comp T/A #6 M6 - bone stock (pics) |
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#5
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Here's mine. The white paint forward of the cowl to body seam line is original paint. I wanted to preserve that, so I left it and the paint was in remarkably good shape
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#6
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Yes, that's what I was remembering ... when I first disassembled the car many years ago there was beautiful Verdoro Green hiding in there.
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#7
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Correct. Cowl section was body color, with top of cowl blacked out with fade into that area. Here is a picture of a car I purchased many years ago as the former owner had "disassembled" the car to them "restore". Frame was next to car. Fenders behind. I still have this car and while it sits on a rolling chassis, it's not back together yet.
I have MANY other pictures of this exact same look. This WAS how the factory did it. I have observed differences between Arlington and Pontiac cars in this regard, however. Pontiac cars had "the fade" whereas my Arlington cars showed much more of a sharp / clean line where the cowl black was applied
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'68 GTO 4-spd Hardtop (11) '68 GTO Convertible AT (1) '70 LeMans Sport Land of Lakes Muscle Car Classic Facebook Event Facebook Wall (Kurt Smith,Minneapolis) |
#8
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Exactly ... my GTO is Arlington and I remember a cleaner line almost like it was taped off at the seam sealer on top.
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#9
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FWIW, mine's an Arlington car too.
__________________
Ken '68 GTO - Ram Air II 464 - 236/242 roller - 9.5” TSP converter - 3.55 posi (build thread | walk around) '95 Comp T/A #6 M6 - bone stock (pics) |
The Following User Says Thank You to Verdoro 68 For This Useful Post: | ||
#10
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I'll put some tape in that location and roll up the edge so it's kind of soft and call it good.
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#11
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I'm starting to get a little excited about this car. It's been 40 years since I've had it on the road, 45 years since I bought it, literally on graduation day from HS, from my art teacher, and drove it to graduation that night. Was my daily transportation post HS, and throughout my four years in the military. Somehow, throughout moves all over the country the car went with me, running or not. Numerous girlfriends and good friends occupied the passenger seat for those years, many youthful adventures, good times and bad times.
Soon the parts I have been carrying around and storing for years will start going back in, rebuilt, recovered, repainted and new. I still have the last license plate it ever got, never even installed, still brand new, when I move back to TN I will try to see if they will let me use it somehow. Hopefully I will drive it with far more sanity and self control than I did those many years ago. |
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#12
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Glad you posted this question data. Mine is similar to 68gtoMN’s except mine rolls all the way up the side to the seam with the top of the cowl. I don’t have the black overspray from the top on it. I originally thought mine was gray primer but cleaned it up to find my original Springmist Green.
Speaking of this area, what’s factory as far as the windshield channel area? Was that color matched to the body on the top, left/right, and bottom or was that all just black? |
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#13
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I've got similar question about the windshield channel .... where was the break between top dashboard color and window channel color. Was the lower channel top dashboard color ... or black cowl color?
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#14
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Another question .... was seam sealer in areas that did not receive body color primed over? Or was it applied after the primer? Pretty sure I remember areas that were painted body color had the sealer painted over. I've got the first coats of epoxy on the body and I thinking I should do the seam sealing before I apply the last coat of primer. I know the factory seam sealer on my GTO was beige ... and I don't remember seeing any big beige strips of seam sealer.
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#15
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Quote:
I’ve been searching google for images of 1968-9 “survivor” cars looking for answers to the dash/windshield channel questions. At this point I’m guessing that the dash 0° gloss paint terminates at the flat seam where the dash stamped panel meets the top cowl pannel. Either way you’ll never see the transition if it’s within the lower windshield sealing surface I guess. Maybe easier or less critical for me with a black interior as just the gloss % change and not a color change. My final coat of primer should either be tonight or tomorrow depending on how my coat from last night looks. I’m messing with small amounts of flattener in my epoxy primer trying to tweak things just enough to notice a difference between frame/firewall (originally 30°) and inner fenders, core support, control arms, steering linkage, heater box, and other accessories (originally 60°). Not shooting for concourse by any means… just some differentiation seeing that it’s all in pieces and easy to spray. I keep meaning to put a post up in the “Body” section showing how things are going and stop cluttering up your posts! Sorry about that! |
#16
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Post here all you want ... I trust the 68/69 people more than those regular people
I'm using black urethane sealer so I would probably have some more options on how to do it. Will be putting on the sealer today, and probably last primer on Weds ... so yes it is a race |
#17
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Heres what was on mine. Sealant covering the edge
__________________
Ed 1968 GTO (Thanks Mom) 2006 Silverado 2007 Cadillac SRX 2015 Chevy Express |
#18
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Finished the sealing today ... think I will go back and do the seam on that window channel ... didn't do it today.
How about the drip rail channel? I can't tell what's going on there. I cleaned it down to bare metal with a wire brush on a drill, now it's primed ... I don't see evidence of an actual seam in there, but there has to be one right? There was accumulated paint, vinyl top glue etc. in there but I didn't see a lot of sealant come out. Should I run a bead of sealant in the channel and smooth it down with a finger or something? Anyone ever noticed that the drip rail is sort of screwed on? Mine appears to have been screwed on, then tack welded in place at the factory. From the way it cleaned up in the door seal area it almost looks like stainless steel. |
#19
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Quote:
Very happy for you Dataway as you approach the finish line. 40 years is a long time to not be behind the wheel. Cheers to you making up for lost time! Last edited by will slow gto; 08-22-2021 at 01:29 AM. |
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#20
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Thanks Will, very soon now I won't be coming upstairs with dirty hands and clothes after working on the car
This black urethane sealant went on so nice, and took brush marks just the way I wanted that I'm tempted not to prime over it in the cowl area. Right now the firewall/cowl has two coats of black epoxy ... pretty much done if I don't apply another coat of epoxy ... so kind of reluctant to shoot it again just to cover the already black sealant. |
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