[dataway]

First: What is the repaint procedure of areas of a bc/cc paintjob that just have to be redone?

I've got one area, pretty much the whole area below the lower body line on a 68 GTO door ... say 4" x door length that was applied too light and dry on the base coat, and not enough clear on top, and just not enough product there to fix it. It will probably go down into epoxy primer when sanded.

What procedure would be acceptable WITHOUT painting the whole door again, the rest of the door is great. Keep in mind this is a driver paint job. I'm hoping I can just shoot the color and clear again if I can stay out of the primer when sanding.


Next. What would be the procedure for light peel correction? It's not bad, a bit more than OEM, and not on the whole car. Sanding? If so what grit would I start with? Only looking for minor improvement and I don't have a ton of clear to work with. Buffing machine only?

BTW MUSLCAH ... that Tolecut system is also nice for helping to figure out just what might be needed to smooth down a larger area ... pick an out of the way spot, work through the grits, get an idea of how much sanding, what grits will work and if you have enough paint to work with.

[dhutton]

My recollection is you put down two coats of clear. Not really enough for safe correction, especially for a novice, imho.

Repaint the door and save yourself a lot of grief imho. Spot in the base and reclear.

Don

[dataway]

Don ... you mean shoot the problem area with more color, then reclear the whole door?
Or reshoot the color on the whole door and the clear?

How far down would the door have to be sanded?

[tjs72lemans]

Wet sand the whole door with 600. Dust in your paint where you want to start and continue down the door until you reach the color coverage you desire. Then, clear the whole door.
Orange peel. Wet sand with 600, 1200, 1500. Buff.

[n20ta2]

Agree with above although I usually don't go below 1000 on the first cut unless it's really really bad. I also apply 3 good coats of clear, gives me plenty to work with.

[Rob in NH]

I would check the car really good for light spots to make sure the coverage is good on the rest of the car and if its good sand with 1000 and apply 2 more coats of clear. I hate say it but it sounds like you are light on the clear.

[dataway]

Thank you .... I'm saving these comments to my notes for use in the spring when I do the fix.

Light in some spots for sure, about 90% of what is done is great. Bear in mind I still have both fenders, hood and bumper yet to do ... so I'll have plenty of clear on those

The vast majority of the car won't be sanded as it looks as good as I want, which is not a very high bar

Think of the paint job you would have been happy with in High School ... that's what I'm talking about. It will never be sold, never shown and when I'm 80, after having it for 63 years ... I'll probably park it in a field and give it a Viking funeral to save it the humiliation of being sold, blown up, wrecked, and rusted away in the woods.

[MUSLCAH]

Originally Posted by tjs72lemans

Wet sand the whole door with 600. Dust in your paint where you want to start and continue down the door until you reach the color coverage you desire. Then, clear the whole door.
Orange peel. Wet sand with 600, 1200, 1500. Buff.

This is a metallic color….your leaving out a very important step

[dataway]

Not sure how much this will help ... but 90% of the car looks like the door in the photo below. Battery dead in the DSLR so had to use the phone.

Really, I don't think it's that bad at all, just a couple of areas that will bug me if they aren't corrected.

Basically just need to know if base coat will stick to sanded clear .... if it will I'll reshoot some base in the problem area and just clear the whole door. They will remain off the car till Spring so easy enough to work with.

[dhutton]

I am guessing that Mystery Man Muslcah is referring to the use of a wet bed using intercoat clear which is often done when spotting in metallics.

https://www.vehicleservicepros.com/c...ing-techniques

SPI has an intercoat clear which is base without pigment.



Don

[MUSLCAH]

Originally Posted by dhutton

I am guessing that Mystery Man Muslcah is referring to the use of a wet bed using intercoat clear which is often done when spotting in metallics.

https://www.vehicleservicepros.com/c...ing-techniques

SPI has an intercoat clear which is base without pigment.



Don

WINNAH WINNAH …..chicken Dinnah !

[tjs72lemans]

I've had good results using metallics that weren't noticeable with the procedure I outlined. I don't use SPI clears, maybe that is different.
I also would not trust mechanical adhesion to anything wet sanded finer than 600.

[dataway]

Excellent info, thanks.
How about another option .... as carefully sanding the clear I have to avoid getting into the color and then a couple of coats of clear on the whole door? The downside to this for me is I would have to live with the small test area that got sanded down so that the black primer shows through. I realize that's not something most of you could live with, but it's a little 1/2" x 1" area below the body line in the door. I think I could get rid of 80% of the "pebbly" dry clear on the bottom of the door that way. It's not "rough dry" it's pebbly ... from the clear being sprayed over base that was sprayed over dry rough seal coat.

Here is the present state of affairs ... got the body back on the frame today. Roof is rough of course because it get's vinyl. Anything that "looks" like a problem on that body is just reflections ... due to it's awesome shine of course

[dhutton]

That little test area will haunt you. Fix the door and learn some new techniques.

Don

[dataway]

Jeez, you know it and and I know it, but I'm in denial. Fact is I'll have all the painting gear and supplies out in the spring to do the fenders, hood and bumper .. so it's not like working on the door is going to be any great problem.

[tjs72lemans]

If it was me, after the wet sand, I'd respray that lower door with the color you need for coverage and gradually dust up to the middle of door to body line. Then clear. Wet sand. Buff. You'll be happier with the results. Once on car, no one would even know you had a problem. Why waste time and money panting if it won't look acceptable.