#21  
Old 08-27-2021, 01:27 PM
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I'm using SPI universal clear with slow activator. Plan at the moment is a two coat "production" application of the clear. Only have one gallon so not sure I could squeeze out three coats anyway.

I won't paint unless it's a: Under 80 degrees b: not in direct sun This why my window is typically 3:30pm to 7:30 pm

Luckily bugs are at a bizarrely low level this year. With all the priming work I've done outside this year I've had exactly one bug in the paint so far.

Dave ... I know you are familiar with the conditions in NY ... appropriate painting days can be few and far between. I consider any four hour window I have to be a gift

Weather looks good today ... mid 70's, partly cloudy and since I'm only shooting the trunk lid and valance today I can keep them in the shade.

Sat and Sun look to be lower 70's and cloudy, if that holds I can shoot the doors and shell this weekend while I have my assistant. However at those temps I worry that my reducer is too slow. I think I may I have a gallon of SPI normal reducer I could mix in if needed.

I'll let you guys know tonight how they turn out.

  #22  
Old 08-27-2021, 02:16 PM
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I used that clear on my Firebird, was told 30 minutes between coats. If your doing two coats I think its 15 minutes between coats. If you get a lot of trash in the clear I would do at least 3 coats so you have plenty to wet sand and buff.

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Old 08-27-2021, 06:05 PM
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Any tips on avoiding tiger stripes? I can see some faint striping on the trunk lid. Fan is one turn from full open. Thinking maybe increase pressure a bit, I'm at 25. Would lighter coats or heavier coats tend to lessen the problem?

Paint is not fully dry yet so hard to tell how noticeable they will be.

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Old 08-27-2021, 06:36 PM
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Spray it in the other direction…..stand in front of the hood…where the latch is…and spray left to right….to straighten out the metallic. Use 30 pounds at the gun….a lighter coat to get the metallic right….spray in different directions. Your not looking for any shine with the base.A heavy coat is what got you in trouble ,with the metallic

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Old 08-27-2021, 07:34 PM
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Yep, the stripes are where I know it was heavier. The valance turned out great I think because it was first and I was more shy with the paint, so it went on lighter, plus, because of the shape I had to shoot it in different directions to hit everything. The trunk lid I was doing it all at 90 degrees to the panel, on the down curve of the lid ... no striping probably because once again I was hitting it at different angles and being more caution with the paint because it's almost vertical.

So far, other than some faint striping .. it's what I expected, a backyard paintjob with some bugs and trash. Has OEM level of peel (at least while still wet) more pressure at the gun will probably help that too. No solvent issues that I can see so far. 20 min between paint coats, 1 hour to clear, 30 min per clear coat.

Might hit the trunk lid with another coat of clear at some point after wet sanding it.

Going to try to get the doors and shell done tomorrow.

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Old 08-27-2021, 10:49 PM
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I can tell from the parts after drying that if I could handle the gun properly, and had a nice clean booth the products seem top notch.

When I apply a "medium wet" coat my method is usually to add paint till I just see the gloss "wet" look and then move on, whereas if I was doing heavy wet coat I'd give it another couple of passes after I see the surface gloss over. Any advice on what a light coat would look like with base coat? The vast majority of my painting experience is with SS paints. Should I be seeing any gloss while spraying base coat, while the paint is being applied I mean, not after it dries.

Muslcah I like your suggestions .... the higher pressure and if I move the gun back a bit might give me some more finesse with how much paint is going on.


Last edited by dataway; 08-27-2021 at 11:01 PM.
  #27  
Old 08-28-2021, 12:01 AM
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With Base Coat…..you are not spraying for a shine or wet look. All you want to do with the base color is just get it on ..even. Way different than spraying single stage…where you spray for shine each coat. So now when you clear coat ….spray that like SS. This is where your “Shine” is developed. Minimum of 2 coats. But if you got some boogers in it (Which we all get ) you can knock them down with some 800 grit and lay another coat of clear down in a couple days. Or put down 3 good coats of clear ( but I thought you said you only had a gallon ) and de- nib and buff ….leaving some orange peal …like you wanted.

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Old 08-28-2021, 12:11 AM
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After you Clearcoat a flat panel that is laying on table….like a door ,deck lid, hood, roof….When the cleared panel has tacked up…30 minutes or so….( tacked up means ,floating debris and bugs won’t stick to it ) BE SURE TO PUT AN OSCILLATING FAN ON LOW SPEED TO MOVE THE AIR OVER THESE PANELS FOR 3-4 HOURS. If you don’t do this step….you will know what solvent popping is.

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Old 08-28-2021, 02:32 AM
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So, been about 7 hours since the last coat, went down and checked them and they look great (to me). I had them left lying flat like I painted them ... but nearby there was a dehumidifier that keeps air moving so fortune favored me there.

On the Lid I have three coats of paint and clear, on the valance two each. I'm going to order another couple quarts of paint and clear soon as possible to make sure I have enough and so I will have some paint left to mix with the new paint.

You guys would probably laugh at the paint ... but after 30 years of looking at that body in primer and rust ... the parts look beautiful me every time I see them

I was definitely trying for "wet look" coats .... the valance that turned out the best was the part I had worried didn't have enough paint on it. I live in fear of dry coats on horizontal surfaces and runs on vertical surfaces. Can't wait to try out the new techniques. Will be doing the hood last (next spring) so hopefully by the time I get to that most visible large surface I'll be better at it.


Last edited by dataway; 08-28-2021 at 02:44 AM.
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  #30  
Old 08-28-2021, 06:45 AM
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SPI says specifically to shut fans off within a minute after spraying their clear:

https://9bebbfda-9708-47ec-91b7-e2bc...328a590041.pdf

http://www.spiuserforum.com/index.ph...al-clear.3520/

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Old 08-28-2021, 08:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roger1 View Post
SPI says specifically to shut fans off within a minute after spraying their clear:

https://9bebbfda-9708-47ec-91b7-e2bc...328a590041.pdf

http://www.spiuserforum.com/index.ph...al-clear.3520/
What are the consequences with air movement ….from an oscillating fan ? And can you bake SPI paint …..or is a back yard application only with a box fan in the window ?

  #32  
Old 08-28-2021, 02:26 PM
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No paint today. Was supposed to be cloudy with no rain ... of course it's raining all day.

At present I'll probably stick with the scheduling that worked with the first parts except a bit more time between coats since temps will be down 10 degrees tomorrow. Going to try to stretch out the base coat to clear coat time to two hours if I have the weather.

Paint has hardened up nice, valance and trunk are already stored away for future use.

I don't really foresee any problems based on how the first parts went. Other than the cooler temps all the conditions will be the same. The parts get pulled in the shop after painting which provides a very stable 70 degree, 55% humidity environment. They do harden a bit slow in there. I basically leave them in there totally undisturbed for a couple of days, no activities allowed in the shop during that time.

  #33  
Old 08-28-2021, 02:52 PM
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Glad it's going well for you so far! I've been a bit concerned for you. Hope it goes as well tomorrow!

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  #34  
Old 08-28-2021, 03:28 PM
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Here is a shot of the valance ... obviously can't tell much from a photo. I'd say better than OEM, long way from show quality.
Does look glossier/smoother in person.


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  #35  
Old 08-28-2021, 04:02 PM
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Wow! Nice.
I really like that color. One of the nicest for the GTO of all years.

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  #36  
Old 08-28-2021, 05:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dataway View Post
Here is a shot of the valance ... obviously can't tell much from a photo. I'd say better than OEM, long way from show quality.
Does look glossier/smoother in person.

Looking great so far! Nice job!!!

Can’t wait to see pics of your progress.

Did you mention above that you’re in NY? If so, what part are you in?

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Old 08-28-2021, 06:19 PM
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I'm west of Saratoga Springs about 15 miles, up on a mountain in the Galway NY area. Do have a sister in law in Buffalo though .... long boring drive from here.

Just ordered that Tolecut system for repairing nibs etc. I'll see how that works.

  #38  
Old 08-28-2021, 09:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dataway View Post
I'm west of Saratoga Springs about 15 miles, up on a mountain in the Galway NY area. Do have a sister in law in Buffalo though .... long boring drive from here.

Just ordered that Tolecut system for repairing nibs etc. I'll see how that works.
That paper cuts for a long time…just keep blowing the sanding dust off it with a blow gun….or I just wipe it clean ,will a couple swipes on my pant leg.

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  #39  
Old 08-29-2021, 12:28 AM
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Dataway….is that the original color of the car ?

  #40  
Old 08-29-2021, 10:54 PM
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Yes, I painted it two difference colors since the original paint ... now it's returned to the original color. I left original factory paint on the underside of the trunk lid.
Strange color ... in direct light it looks quite light in color, in shadow it looks quite dark.

More painting put off until Tuesday ... weather again.

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