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Old 03-30-2020, 01:15 AM
Aus78Formula Aus78Formula is offline
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Some clown changed the settings on the forum to limit editing posts. So the longer post I just tried to add info to and correct some others is not allowed and lost. Needless to say, the Fisher bracing was only screwed and riveted in place, more of the roof was removed and this probably did as much during the cutting process as after on the road, limited.

  #22  
Old 03-30-2020, 02:34 AM
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Brian Baker Brian Baker is offline
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On a side note, I've never had an issue with POR-15 not holding up, but then I always top-coated it with something. The best results I ever got was on my '73 LeMans frame while doing a body-off resto'. Blasted frame to bare metal and after prepping it for paint, sprayed it with POR-15 (had to cut it with thinner to get it to flow out of the gun) then when it was still tacky, topped it with Dupont Chroma-One in gloss black. That stuff was like Kryptonite on Superman and held up well for years. This was done in the early 90's so maybe things have changed since.

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  #23  
Old 03-30-2020, 09:05 AM
TAKerry TAKerry is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 'ol Pinion head View Post
As my '79 W72 car's body shell will eventually make its way on the rotiseree, am going to run either an epoxy primer or a P0R-15 like product in the Fisher top cavity while the shell is fully braced & upside down. Next, my plan is to shoot a low expansion rate foam product in the cavity to fill it with a close cell foam which will add considerable strength. First witnessed a body shop in Dallas using an expanding foam product for this exact procedure on a Fisher top T/A in the late 90's.
All do respect, I cannot see this foam adding any strength. Just because it is done doesn't make it so.

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Old 03-30-2020, 09:41 AM
'ol Pinion head 'ol Pinion head is offline
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This style of body shop supply product is a very dense foam & provided quite a bit of rigidity. I poked around up in a hole on the underside of the T-bar & the product was very hard. Know the shop owner & his lead body guy were very impressed with it. Am definitely going this route on the '79.

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Old 03-30-2020, 11:00 AM
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I run SFCs on all my F-Bodies. They definitely make a difference, especially on T-top cars. I usually combine them with aluminum subframe bushings to really stiffen things up.

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  #26  
Old 03-31-2020, 08:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 72projectbird View Post
I run SFCs on all my F-Bodies. They definitely make a difference, especially on T-top cars. I usually combine them with aluminum subframe bushings to really stiffen things up.
Thanks 72 good to hear about the hard bushings also makes sense. I made a deal on some connectors today with a guy in the car club I'm in but no bushings so I'll pick some up.

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Old 03-31-2020, 08:16 PM
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Thanks for the input everyone a guy in our car club has a pair of CE bolt on's that never got installed because he sold his 79 Camaro. Like I stated before all the TA's gaps look good but I figured on a t-top car a little extra insurance sure can't hurt.

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Old 03-31-2020, 08:54 PM
Aus78Formula Aus78Formula is offline
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If bolting them on you can get away with poly bushes, even rubber, but that starts to miss the point of adding them to firm everything up. But if welding then solid is the only answer as any slight flexing will crack welds. But since you are seeking new bushes anyway and they are possibly 40 years old, it's the perfect opportunity to use the most suitable.

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Old 03-31-2020, 11:15 PM
Don 79 TA Don 79 TA is offline
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i had the CE bolt ins welded sometime in the 90s
last summer i put the CE solid bushings in, WOW what a difference
i had to muscle the back bushings a little, so without a doubt before you get them tack welded in do the bushings, will make frame alignment that much easier
the CE solid bushings are cheap too

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  #30  
Old 04-09-2020, 12:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skip Fix View Post
My 78 had little cracks at the back of the door-window-C pillar. Thin coat of filler. Just pulling it in and out of the body shop started cracking. Pulled out all the factory lead there, There were only 3 spot welds holding the back of the top to the C pillar! Solid weld and no cracks even after alot of autocrossing and low 11 high 10 drag strip passes. I did add the old Moroso subframe connectors. They hang down lower than most of the options now.
Skip, my 79 T-top T/A had three tiny wilds on the C pillars like your car and
the roof cracked on the passenger side when it was 6 weeks old. Dealer claimed they rewelded it and then repainted the roof of the car under warranty when it was two months old. Their repair lasted about a year and it cracked again just as bad. When I frame off restored the car in 1988 I had the body shop weld both sides up solid with a continuous weld.......still looks perfect 32 years later.

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