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#21
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Some clown changed the settings on the forum to limit editing posts. So the longer post I just tried to add info to and correct some others is not allowed and lost. Needless to say, the Fisher bracing was only screwed and riveted in place, more of the roof was removed and this probably did as much during the cutting process as after on the road, limited.
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#22
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On a side note, I've never had an issue with POR-15 not holding up, but then I always top-coated it with something. The best results I ever got was on my '73 LeMans frame while doing a body-off resto'. Blasted frame to bare metal and after prepping it for paint, sprayed it with POR-15 (had to cut it with thinner to get it to flow out of the gun) then when it was still tacky, topped it with Dupont Chroma-One in gloss black. That stuff was like Kryptonite on Superman and held up well for years. This was done in the early 90's so maybe things have changed since.
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Just a blind squirrel looking for a nut. |
The Following User Says Thank You to Brian Baker For This Useful Post: | ||
#23
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Quote:
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#24
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This style of body shop supply product is a very dense foam & provided quite a bit of rigidity. I poked around up in a hole on the underside of the T-bar & the product was very hard. Know the shop owner & his lead body guy were very impressed with it. Am definitely going this route on the '79.
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Buzzards gotta eat... same as worms. |
#25
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I run SFCs on all my F-Bodies. They definitely make a difference, especially on T-top cars. I usually combine them with aluminum subframe bushings to really stiffen things up.
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"Those poor souls have made the fatal mistake of surrounding us. Now we can fire in any direction" 1970 Trans Am RAIII 4 speed 1971 Trans Am 5.3 LM7 1977 Trans Am W72 Y82 1987 Grand National |
#26
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Thanks 72 good to hear about the hard bushings also makes sense. I made a deal on some connectors today with a guy in the car club I'm in but no bushings so I'll pick some up.
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#27
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Thanks for the input everyone a guy in our car club has a pair of CE bolt on's that never got installed because he sold his 79 Camaro. Like I stated before all the TA's gaps look good but I figured on a t-top car a little extra insurance sure can't hurt.
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#28
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If bolting them on you can get away with poly bushes, even rubber, but that starts to miss the point of adding them to firm everything up. But if welding then solid is the only answer as any slight flexing will crack welds. But since you are seeking new bushes anyway and they are possibly 40 years old, it's the perfect opportunity to use the most suitable.
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#29
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i had the CE bolt ins welded sometime in the 90s
last summer i put the CE solid bushings in, WOW what a difference i had to muscle the back bushings a little, so without a doubt before you get them tack welded in do the bushings, will make frame alignment that much easier the CE solid bushings are cheap too |
The Following User Says Thank You to Don 79 TA For This Useful Post: | ||
#30
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Quote:
the roof cracked on the passenger side when it was 6 weeks old. Dealer claimed they rewelded it and then repainted the roof of the car under warranty when it was two months old. Their repair lasted about a year and it cracked again just as bad. When I frame off restored the car in 1988 I had the body shop weld both sides up solid with a continuous weld.......still looks perfect 32 years later. |
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