#41  
Old 07-01-2020, 02:38 PM
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Correct, the only factor when it comes to fuel psi is the 'actual' psi setting. You also have to have the correct injection info entered, but now they list the Holley injector part numbers to choose from.

But, the 13301 regulator is only rated to 250 gph:

Performance Specifications: Model 13301

Outlet Fuel Pressure, adjustable 3-20 psi low pressure spring (installed from factory) 20-65 psi high pressure spring Max Pump Flow Rate 250 GPH Inlet / Outlet ports 4ea. 3/8-NPT Bypass port (located at bottom of regulator) 1ea. 3/8-NPT Fuel Compatibility Gasoline only

So you may be blowing past it with a 400 lph pump. If you are not running a source to the vacuum fitting on the regulator, you should remove the cap.

You should probably be running the Holley Dominator Billet regulator, or at least the HP one.

Holley allows you to choose your load sensing method, which defaults to speed density, but there are 4 others. If you choose anything with 'VE', it's best to enter your cam profile for timing events etc. (injector phasing)


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  #42  
Old 07-01-2020, 02:44 PM
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Here's an earlier pic of the transducers mounted....


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1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2
http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=760624
1971 Trans Am 463, 315cfm E-head Sniper XFlow EFI, TKO600 extreme, 9", GW suspension, Baer brakes, pro tour car
https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...ght=procharger
Theme Song: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zKAS...ature=youtu.be
  #43  
Old 07-01-2020, 02:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HWYSTR455 View Post
Correct, the only factor when it comes to fuel psi is the 'actual' psi setting. You also have to have the correct injection info entered, but now they list the Holley injector part numbers to choose from.

But, the 13301 regulator is only rated to 250 gph:

Performance Specifications: Model 13301

Outlet Fuel Pressure, adjustable 3-20 psi low pressure spring (installed from factory) 20-65 psi high pressure spring Max Pump Flow Rate 250 GPH Inlet / Outlet ports 4ea. 3/8-NPT Bypass port (located at bottom of regulator) 1ea. 3/8-NPT Fuel Compatibility Gasoline only

So you may be blowing past it with a 400 lph pump. If you are not running a source to the vacuum fitting on the regulator, you should remove the cap.

You should probably be running the Holley Dominator Billet regulator, or at least the HP one.

Holley allows you to choose your load sensing method, which defaults to speed density, but there are 4 others. If you choose anything with 'VE', it's best to enter your cam profile for timing events etc. (injector phasing)


.
400 LPH is only about 106 GPH so I'm not even quite to 1/2 of it's flow rate capacity.
The base calibration came with 60 psi set in the program and I've left that be, then set the pressure to 60 using a mechanical gauge, key on not running.

On the vacuum line deal, are you talking about leaving the nipple on the regulator open when you say "remove the cap?"

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Last edited by Formulajones; 07-01-2020 at 02:56 PM.
  #44  
Old 07-01-2020, 02:52 PM
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My dyslexia kicked in, you are correct, I had it backwards, was thinking 2.2 gal per liter. Doh!

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1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2
http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=760624
1971 Trans Am 463, 315cfm E-head Sniper XFlow EFI, TKO600 extreme, 9", GW suspension, Baer brakes, pro tour car
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Theme Song: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zKAS...ature=youtu.be
  #45  
Old 07-01-2020, 02:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JLMounce View Post
HWY's post on that got a little buried. Doesn't look to be the case.

Formula, I know the FiTech doesn't even read fuel pressure and I get the feeling that neither does the sniper. What the FiTech does is read injector flow and cross references it to the o2's lamda reading.

The calculation would work something like base VE table fueling > VE modifers (coolant, IAT, TPS, MAP) > fuel flow > lambda. then the trim kicks in based on lamda and loops back to long term learn, which is a modification of the base VE table.
Sniper reads fuel pressure, IF you buy the Super Sniper, which this is. The Super Sniper comes with extra inputs and outputs to monitor things like fuel and oil pressure, trans temp, or what ever else you can think up.

However you have to buy extra sensors to do so and wire them into the supplied harness, then setup the gauges in the software to read them, which isn't a big deal.

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  #46  
Old 07-01-2020, 03:00 PM
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I will hop on this thread aswell, i have had the sniper master kit installed, then got a hyperfuel efi tank with 340 lph intank pump last year, car has been running flawless. This year i fitted the whole hyperspark package, coil, cd-box and halleffect distributor, this lead to some RFI issues as the output of the new ignition system was way more powerful than the HEI distributor, all solved now.
lastly i fitted a marshall mechanical fuel pressure gauge to the inlet side of the sniper, seems i have about 70 psi when running, on prime and shutdown, it rest dead on 60 psi, not sure what to make out of it, both feed and return is 6an and they run in excact parallell from tank to throttlebody same bends, same length, kinda strange

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  #47  
Old 07-01-2020, 03:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HWYSTR455 View Post
My dyslexia kicked in, you are correct, I had it backwards, was thinking 2.2 gal per liter. Doh!

.
No worries, you made me go back and check for a second thinking I had it backwards LOL

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  #48  
Old 07-01-2020, 05:25 PM
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I ordered the FiTech Go EFI 4 600hp. Tanks Inc tank, Walbro 255, float less, GM CTS. Thanks for all your help

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  #49  
Old 07-01-2020, 05:36 PM
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Old 07-01-2020, 05:48 PM
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You won't regret it. I have the exact setup on a pretty similar engine build and it's been going strong since 2015!

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  #51  
Old 07-03-2020, 04:51 AM
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I've been running FiTech on both of my cars.

I used the fuel command center on my Lemans. It works, but if it sits for a long time it requires significant cranking to get fuel in the FCC, and then the electric pump kicks it to the TB from there. It works, but I want a cleaner setup like my 67 Firebird. The FCC needed a return line. I used the 1/4 evap return line. My mechanical fuel pump already is using the stock return line.

Having learned from my Lemans, I wanted lean and clean. I used FiTech's retro in-tank pump, which has a 255lph pump. I plumbed the pump outlet to a Tanks, Inc. bypass EFI regulator that sits in front of my tank. The regulator bypass returns to the return fitting on the pump, and the regulator output is plumbed into the factory 3/8 hard line that goes forward along the passenger side up to the front. When the 3/8 hard line terminated up front, I ran push lock hose with an inline filter and gauge adapter to the fuel inlet on the TB. The end result is that I only have a single fuel line running forward from the rear, which is a combo of 6an and 3/8 steel line. I also have a cheap fuel filter plumbed to the vent connection of the in-tank pump housing as a vent for the tank.

I will do my Lemans like that someday. If I get rid of the FCC, I would have more room in the front right corner for something like a turbo.

Wow. I think this is my first post in 2020. Or something close to it. I've been away for a while.

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  #52  
Old 07-03-2020, 08:52 AM
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Good to hear from ya Squid!! Been missin ya at all the local car events. Where ya been??

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Old 07-03-2020, 09:04 AM
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Squidward -
I like that you put a regulator at the fuel tank. Clean, because you only have one fuel line going front-to-back. My fuel pressure regulator is up front on the inner fender. That was for a carburetor.
I'm confused though. Why do you have a regulator if the TB has one built in?

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  #54  
Old 07-04-2020, 12:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by First Bird View Post
Squidward -
I like that you put a regulator at the fuel tank. Clean, because you only have one fuel line going front-to-back. My fuel pressure regulator is up front on the inner fender. That was for a carburetor.
I'm confused though. Why do you have a regulator if the TB has one built in?
Whatever fuel is not needed by the engine is immediately recirc'd back into the tank from my regulator with much less exposure to higher temps. Plumbing was simpler, and I trusted the Tanks, Inc regulator more than the small FiTech built in regulator. So yes, I am running 2 regulators. The same thing could be achieved by running my in-tank pump to the TB fuel inlet, and running an equal sized or bigger return line back to the tank. I just didn't want to do the additional plumbing.

This setup is similar to those using a Corvette LS filter/regulator unit with an intank pump. I took that idea and converted it to my own thing.

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Old 07-04-2020, 12:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Formulajones View Post
Good to hear from ya Squid!! Been missin ya at all the local car events. Where ya been??
It's just so HOT here in the summer. It sucks the life out of me doing car stuff in this heat. Between my daughter/granddaughter coming to live with us temporarily, my son finishing his senior year, my wife all wound up over everything, Covid, protests, riots, murder hornets, etc. the car stuff fell by the wayside.

IDK. I've been contemplating where I go with this hobby moving forward. I might trim down to 1 car. I just don't seem to have the "fire" like I used to. But I dig what Mike's putting together. That has given me some inspiration to reconnect with things that go "vroom"!

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  #56  
Old 07-04-2020, 09:22 AM
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Well hopefully all this sillyness blows over soon and gets back to normal. Good to hear your son finishing up school, I know that was a subject on your mind last time we talked, and this beer virus isn't making school any easier..

I like Mike's project, it's looking good and should scoot down the track. He's already calling out dad and a few others, Can't wait to see it run.

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  #57  
Old 07-04-2020, 03:42 PM
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https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cmb-03-0263
I found this combination Fuel Regulator/Filter for LS. Is this like what you used?

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  #58  
Old 07-07-2020, 09:28 AM
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I've found yet another reason to run a good regulator close to the EFI unit.

I was just talking to Chris at EFI Pro about boost or vacuum referenced regulators, and he was telling me even on an NA engine, they are beneficial with better control of fuel pressures at idle and slow speed conditions, you end up with more accurate fueling in those areas.

I just so happen to prefer running the 13301 Aeromotive regulator on all my stuff that requires a regulator, which happens to be vacuum referenced, and I tend to mount them close to the carb, or EFI with a full length return line. Because of that it was very simple to run a vacuum line to the EFI unit for a simple test.

Sure enough, Chris was right, the vacuum reference lowers the pressure at idle and low speed cruise and it really did clean up the fueling, with fuel trims + or - 1%. the AFR is more stable and also more even from driver to passenger side, injector pulse widths look better. The Sniper seems to be struggling less with fuel corrections in areas with low fuel demand. So even though the system can be run at 60 psi all the time, which is what Holley tells you, what they don't tell you, is that with a vacuum referenced regulator and better control of fuel pressures in idle and low speed areas, the fueling is much more accurate. You really don't need 60 lbs at idle and low speed cruising.
Thanks to Chris at EFI Pro.

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Old 07-07-2020, 11:04 AM
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I'm glad you brought up Vacuum Referenced Fuel Regulators. I didn't know about this so I searched and found an excellent write up on them by Vaporworx. It also talks about LS style returnless regulators.

https://www.vaporworx.com/documentat...re-regulators/

In a non-vacuum referenced system fuel pressure at the injector is actually fuel pressure PLUS engine vacuum pressure. My engine makes 17in-Hg vacuum or 8 psi. so the injector would see 58 psi + 8 psi = 66 psi. Apparently this makes the ECU work harder to control AFR at low fuel demands - idle and cruise.
I have decided to do my FI with vac ref fuel reg.
Thanks for the tip FormulaJones

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Last edited by First Bird; 07-07-2020 at 12:01 PM.
  #60  
Old 07-07-2020, 01:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by First Bird View Post
I'm glad you brought up Vacuum Referenced Fuel Regulators. I didn't know about this so I searched and found an excellent write up on them by Vaporworx. It also talks about LS style returnless regulators.

https://www.vaporworx.com/documentat...re-regulators/

In a non-vacuum referenced system fuel pressure at the injector is actually fuel pressure PLUS engine vacuum pressure. My engine makes 17in-Hg vacuum or 8 psi. so the injector would see 58 psi + 8 psi = 66 psi. Apparently this makes the ECU work harder to control AFR at low fuel demands - idle and cruise.
I have decided to do my FI with vac ref fuel reg.
Thanks for the tip FormulaJones
Unless you use a dual sensor that reads fuel pressure and map like Ford does. Then you can run returnless with manifold pressures accounted for, boost or vacuum. It also involves a pressure control module, and pwm. I don't know whether or not the FItech can manage that or not, but it is another way to do it. I'm considering it on mine, a back burner type project.

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