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The Body Shop TECH General questions that don't fit in any other forum |
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#1
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Door Spot repair that turned into more...
Hi all,
Yes, I started a spot or "smart" repair (as called on youtube) on my passenger door lower end closer to the fender. Progressed very well but after thinking before spraying the paint and clear....looking at the rest of the door...it was sprayed poorly with clear, lots of pimples of clear or whale eyes whatever you want to call it. Just think that I should do the whole door.... So my question is how should I approach the rest of the door panel? Should I sand the clear off the remainder of the door and re-coat with clear after applying paint to the repaired area? Go further and bring it down to the metal and paint and clear? Or do something different? Any help is appreciated |
#2
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If you want it to look better than the last time, carefully wet sand the door slick without cutting through the clear anywhere. Blend your color over the repaired area in the corner and then put 2 coats of clear on the entire door.
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#3
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What does the rest of the car look like?
__________________
1965 Pontiac LeMans. M21, 3.73 in a 12 bolt, Kauffman 461. |
#4
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I'll go with the first reply since that was what I was thinking.
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#5
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I do have areas at the top of the door near the window that have what I would call "faded" clearcoat which actually looks like it has flaked away. How would you treat these areas?
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#6
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If it has actually flaked off, the nearby clear isn't far behind. If there is any chance of avoiding stripping the door, you'll need to sand the flaked clear back until it feather edges smoothly (no shiny ring). Now of course, your exposed base coat is either really thin or sanded through. You can either take your chances trying to blend that portion with color and risk it lifting, or apply a coat of primer or sealer over that area to seal it down before you put color on it.
What color is the car? |
The Following User Says Thank You to 400 4spd. For This Useful Post: | ||
#7
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Yes I sanded That top area down to metal and plan to spray primer in the morning. I did sand the remaining clear coat on the door. Did 1500 to get rid of all those pimps, then 2000 and then 3000 trizact. Just wondering.... how well will new paint adhere to the finely sanded clear coat on the door? I studied a excellent video on Youtube about smart repair and he sprays paint well past the primer. I could very easily spray the whole door with primer and paint and clear too. I'm already in it this far and have this whole week off of work. Just want it to be the best it can be....and not have issues in MY lifetime....
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#8
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It isn't a GTO color, it's the way I bought it a few years ago. Originally Flambeau Burgandy, it was re-painted which thanks to my local auto paint store, matched the color spot on...EMERALD GREEN. Honestly I really like the color. I re-did my hood....I am not a pro but I studied very hard and it came out fantastic, very happy with the hood. So I'm not afraid of the work just want it to be the best. Maybe during the off-season continue with another panel....piece by piece. I'm thinking it's a great way to go to stay away from a year + long work and not able to drive the car.
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#9
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The sanding steps that you went through would be fine if you wanted a surface that will buff easily. However the 3000 grit is not good for paint or clear adhesion. I would sand it again with nothing finer than 800 grit.Just my 2 cents.
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The Following User Says Thank You to 400 4spd. For This Useful Post: | ||
#10
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I've sanded to 600 for good adhesion and the surface looks fine. If you think all the stars are aligned for a good match, you could do the whole door. Many times, sun fade, spraying conditions and gun set up all vary and may cause a bit of a mismatch in color.
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#11
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I did sand down to metal on the top window area on the door panel and sprayed two coats of epoxy primer. Tomorrow I'll come back to a slightly larger area and spray a high build but thinned out. Going to then spray the same high build primer on the other areas I skim coated. At this point....the panel will have primer on a good portion of the door but check out this video of smart or spot repair I've been studying... he says 3000 is still good and have seen hundred of repairs done like this.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yS8HRp6FtZQ Part 2 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kI7DQ4IEIlU&t=564s |
#12
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Okay, I watched enough to form an opinion about his methods.
Good luck. |
#13
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Don’t forget to spray down a coat of blender ....to avoid metallic “tracking “ in those sand scratches.
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