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#21
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I tried to get the starter out yesterday but it was hard to get out, so I just looked at the wires and they seemed to be hooked up. I did not check for continuity. I might try this again Saturday if I can get the car out of the garage, weather permitting. If I am going to check for voltage at the distributor with the key turning on, how do I do that. Sorry, I really never learned to much with the electrical part of the car. Do I just put the multimeter on the + and - of the coil? Thanks, Marc.
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#22
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Yeah, just clip your meter positive lead on the + side and the negative lead to any ground. Should have 12v with the key on. As you turn the key to engage the starter, you should continue to have 12v....or 8~9v or so if your resistor wire is still in place.
It should not be 0v in either position in other words.
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
#23
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#24
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If you are seeing 7V when cranking, it would seem that you are running off the resistor wire going to the coil. It should be 12V when cranking.
I have no experience, or know what the M&H breakerless single wire ignition is, but assume an electronic conversion. Most single wire conversions require 12V to operate them. I have no idea if this is what your system requires being 10 years ago. Does your M&H have an electronic module like an HEI set-up? If so, these do go bad and can be replaced. Low voltage can cause them to go bad IF you have a module and IF it requires 12V. Low voltage can be bad for electronic ignitions IF they require 12V. If me, first sort the wiring out so you have 12V to the coil when cranking, no need to proceed any further until you get the wiring sorted. Upgrade your ignition. Then most will require 12V to run, so you will want to see 12V cranking and eliminate the resistor wire and get 12V on "RUN." I recall that you may be able to eliminate the resistor wire at the fuse block on the firewall by pulling it apart (it is 2-piece) and replacing the resistor wire with a correct gauge 12V, non-resistor wire. Get a wiring diagram as it sounds like you do not have one. They sell them, and in color codes/laminated. Do a search on the internet and you should find them. Just my suggestions on all this and what I might do, but it is your car/problem and I may be completely wrong. |
#25
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Yeah, sounds like the resistor wire is dropping the voltage. I'm not familiar with the system so I don't know what required voltage is.
Well, you've definitely found the problem. Just need to get whatever voltage is required by your system applied. It's probably 12v. The real problem is that the voltage is not being applied when you release the key.
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
#26
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I just tried my other car. Same set up. When I crank it over it has 7V at the coil. In the run position it has 17V. This car is running fine. So the car that is giving me problems is in the run position. So I have to figure out what color that wire is or I just might buy a new harness. I figure I can’t go to wrong replacing a 50 year old wire harness... Thanks, Marc.
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#27
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It wouldn't hurt to get a wiring diagram now, not only for current problems but as a guide when re-wiring it. Another forum member turned me onto this company and their diagrams are great; laminated for garage use, available in two sizes (11"x17" or 18"x24"). I got the larger size and it hs been invaluable for problems on my "68. Best of luck with your dilemmas.
https://www.classiccarwiring.com/196...iring-diagram/ Site home page- https://www.classiccarwiring.com/?gc...RoCquAQAvD_BwE
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"No replacement for displacement!" GTOAA--https://www.gtoaa.org/ |
#28
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On the other hand, those old T3 headlights were pretty bright at night!
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Jimmy M 68 GTO |
#29
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#30
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Does anyone sell the 3 screws for the dash that goes through the instrument cluster housing. I either never put them in when I originally put this dash in, or they were never there. The only thing I see in The Ames book is A272VP on page 66. They are listed as 70-72 dash carrier screws. Thanks, Marc.
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