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#1
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Fuel pressure gauge??
I am in need of a decent fuel pressure gauge I can mount inside the car vs the POS mounted on my regulator under hood... was looking at this autometer that would match my other AM gauges. Any reason not to use this one on a street/strip car?
Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
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68 Firebird-- Street/Strip - 400/461 Eagle Forged Bottom End & Ross Flat top pistons. KRE 325 CFM D port, Ultradyne 263/271 @.050, .4267 lift. Crower Solid roller lifters and 1.65 stainless rockers. Quickfuel 1000 on Torker2 intake and 2" open spacer. Hedman 1.75" headers. TH400 w/brake. Ford 9" w/3.80 gears & 28x9 Hoosier pro bracket drag radial. Best ET: 1.35 60ft, 6.29 @ 107.20 mph, 9.99 @132.33 mph. 3,300 race weight |
#2
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That a lot of money!
I had a SW that used a electric sender which is the type you want, as you do not want to run fuel into the passenger area of the car! Here's a picture of the sender painted Blue in the right side of the Brass Tee. Note that I soldered on the needed ground wire to the case of the sender.
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Wernher Von Braun warned before his retirement from NASA back in 1972, that the next world war would be against the ETs! And he was not talking about 1/8 or 1/4 mile ETs! 1) 1940s 100% silver 4 cup tea server set. Two dry rotted 14 x 10 Micky Thompson slicks. 1) un-mailed in gift coupon from a 1972 box of corn flakes. Two pairs of brown leather flip flops, never seen more then 2 mph. Education is what your left with once you forget things! |
#3
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"That a lot of money"
I hear ya! Looking at Summit, there are a few electrical gauges for about 100 less, but they have the 0-100 readouts, which is not great when trying to read 6lbs... on the bright side, there is a $20 rebate Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
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68 Firebird-- Street/Strip - 400/461 Eagle Forged Bottom End & Ross Flat top pistons. KRE 325 CFM D port, Ultradyne 263/271 @.050, .4267 lift. Crower Solid roller lifters and 1.65 stainless rockers. Quickfuel 1000 on Torker2 intake and 2" open spacer. Hedman 1.75" headers. TH400 w/brake. Ford 9" w/3.80 gears & 28x9 Hoosier pro bracket drag radial. Best ET: 1.35 60ft, 6.29 @ 107.20 mph, 9.99 @132.33 mph. 3,300 race weight |
#4
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You didn’t mention your fuel pressure, but if 15lbs or less, this is what I use.
The line inside the car from the isolator to the gage has antifreeze in it.
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#5
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1973 Firebird Navajo Orange w/shaker,1973 400/461,1972 Intake SD CNC'd,1977 Q-Jet 800 CFM w/ Cliffs Kit,Tanks Inc PA4 255 Walbro intank pump ,-8an feed/return,RobbMc Regulator,RobbMc 40 micron filter,253 CFM 6x-8's w/H.S 1:5 Roller Rockers,SD Stump Puller H/R Cam 230/236 @.050 112 lobe separation 565/.570 lift,Crower Solid Rollers,28150 Hedman Headers,3" exhaust,full tailpipes,350 Turbo,9.5" 3200 Converter,3:42 gear,8.5 posi,C/E slide-alinks,Koni adj frt shocks,Best 12.18@110.55 Lookin for 11's |
#6
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Ok, I did hear about an isolater but was not familiar with it. I have an older 1990'ish Autometer mechanical gauge that works fine. I assume that gauge would work behind the isolator and half the cost of a new setup
Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
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68 Firebird-- Street/Strip - 400/461 Eagle Forged Bottom End & Ross Flat top pistons. KRE 325 CFM D port, Ultradyne 263/271 @.050, .4267 lift. Crower Solid roller lifters and 1.65 stainless rockers. Quickfuel 1000 on Torker2 intake and 2" open spacer. Hedman 1.75" headers. TH400 w/brake. Ford 9" w/3.80 gears & 28x9 Hoosier pro bracket drag radial. Best ET: 1.35 60ft, 6.29 @ 107.20 mph, 9.99 @132.33 mph. 3,300 race weight |
#7
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That Autometer is the one I use..for my car its nice..fits right in the AC hole on the dash..
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466 Mike Voycey shortblock, 310cfm SD KRE heads, SD "OF 2.0 cam", torker 2 373 gears 3200 Continental Convertor best et 10.679/127.5/1.533 60ft 308 gears best et 10.76/125.64/1.5471 |
#8
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I have a complete setup with isolator if your interested. In my opinion, a fuel gauge in the car is not needed. Set your fuel pressure up with a gauge on the fuel rail and forget it. You can always T in a fuel pressure gauge when there is an issue to check pressure at WOT.
Charles |
#9
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Quote:
I agree with the set it and forget it approach, which is what I have done with this fuel system on 2 different cars. But was at the track on Saturday playing with a new/used carb, changing jets, and on one run the car fell flat at about 60ft,;almost died like it was out of gas. Back in the pit I looked at the liquid filled gauge underhood that was reading 1lb. I knew the gauge was wonky when hot, but now found out it was REALLY wonky when completely heat soaked in 90 degree weather. Anyway, I was trying to troubleshoot what was going on and of course had no idea what kind of pressure was there. Frustrating. Made several more runs with no issues. Since I go to the track fairly often, figured it would be nice to see what was going on with fuel at all times. But in any case the car still did better than the driver and my night ended early! Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
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68 Firebird-- Street/Strip - 400/461 Eagle Forged Bottom End & Ross Flat top pistons. KRE 325 CFM D port, Ultradyne 263/271 @.050, .4267 lift. Crower Solid roller lifters and 1.65 stainless rockers. Quickfuel 1000 on Torker2 intake and 2" open spacer. Hedman 1.75" headers. TH400 w/brake. Ford 9" w/3.80 gears & 28x9 Hoosier pro bracket drag radial. Best ET: 1.35 60ft, 6.29 @ 107.20 mph, 9.99 @132.33 mph. 3,300 race weight |
#10
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Not trying to tell you what to do, but I hear that the liquid gauges don’t do well with heat. I run dry fuel gauge one on each car with no issues.
If I were you I would just come off the fuel rail with a -2or-3 to a gauge above the hood and keep an eye on it on a wot run. I would get the stainless fuel line to the gauge. |
#11
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However you decide to go, just don’t mount anything fuel related to the firewall.
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#12
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My autometer electric gauge is several years old and continues to work excellent. Have a friend that purchased the S&W electric gauge and is pretty frustrated with it since it reads a little different every time the car starts up. His mechanical gauge at the regulator next to the sender always reads the same so it's something with the S&W gauge or sender.
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Mick Batson 1967 original owner Tyro Blue/black top 4-speed HO GTO with all the original parts stored safely away -- 1965 2+2 survivor AC auto -- 1965 Catalina Safari Wagon in progress. |
#13
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That's what I use as well.
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#14
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I have this for sale. I went FI so it's been sitting on a shelf for years never used. $185obo
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...8346602980968/
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No! Do not try! Do! Or do not. There is no try. - Yoda 1967 Firebird Restoration 2005 - 1/25/2017 |
#15
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I have a SW electric I T'd at the carb. years ago.Pressure on the gauge changed as engine compartment temp changed it could tell when it dropped low -but then I felt it lay down also. Took it off.
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Skip Fix 1978 Trans Am original owner 10.99 @ 124 pump gas 455 E heads, NO Bird ever! 1981 Black SE Trans Am stockish 6X 400ci, turbo 301 on a stand 1965 GTO 4 barrel 3 speed project 2004 GTO Pulse Red stock motor computer tune 13.43@103.4 1964 Impala SS 409/470ci 600 HP stroker project 1979 Camaro IAII Edelbrock head 500" 695 HP 10.33@132 3595lbs |
#16
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Dad used the Autometer electric gauge for about 20 years and it always worked perfectly. I put the small sending unit right on the fuel line at the inlet of the carb, the larger sending unit was velcro'd to the heater box inside the car. Heat never affected the readings on that one.
On one of my cars I used the mechanical isolator as picture above and that worked just fine. My only gripe was trying to hide that isolator under the hood somewhere. My other cars are old school, with a mechanical gauge mounted on the cowl, visible through the windshield. On the Chevelle it's hidden under the ZL2 hood so it can't be seen from the outside unless you're actually sitting in the car. Other cars it's out in the open that goes along with the day 2 theme. Lots of ways to do it. |
#17
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I ended up buying the AM electric gauge and ran it at the track on sunday (where I was the class winner !! )
Mounted the sending unit directly on the regulator, which is mounted on the wheel well. Seems to work well , but does vary about 1.5 -2lbs with heat. For what I am doing, plenty good to at least let me know what is going on while in the car... On a side note, car dropped off 1/10 and was running a full point leaner on the AFR during my last 2 runs. Idle also picked up about 200 rpm. A little carb spray found an intake gasket leak- hopefully nothing more than that! Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
__________________
68 Firebird-- Street/Strip - 400/461 Eagle Forged Bottom End & Ross Flat top pistons. KRE 325 CFM D port, Ultradyne 263/271 @.050, .4267 lift. Crower Solid roller lifters and 1.65 stainless rockers. Quickfuel 1000 on Torker2 intake and 2" open spacer. Hedman 1.75" headers. TH400 w/brake. Ford 9" w/3.80 gears & 28x9 Hoosier pro bracket drag radial. Best ET: 1.35 60ft, 6.29 @ 107.20 mph, 9.99 @132.33 mph. 3,300 race weight |
#18
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I used the Autometer gauge and isolator. It’s still in there but it never really read right. It got to the point it read so high it bent the needle on the gauge. I set my fuel pressure at the carb and make sure it isn’t bleeding past the needle and seat and go. I run 28lbs at the pump and 8 up front according to my gauge. Never a problem with fuel delivery even on alcohol.
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Come take a ride http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P7Y8Awfk2I0 2008, 2013, 2015, 2016, 2019 Central Il Dragway Mod track champion and 2015 IHRA Div 5 Mod champion |
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