[poncho4554spd]

Hi. I have some parts and a 72 shell almost ready for color. When we look up code 26 it currently lists as a Chevy color. We did a test spray on a card and Its blue but looks a little light inside but under the sun you can see some of the metallic in it and seems more correct. Are you guys just using the code 26 with the newest formula when doing Lucerne? Does the current formula seem correct? The paint we are using is sickkens. I just wanted to get other opinions before we mix a bunch up and start spraying everything. Thanks for any input.

[Formulajones]

I just did a Lucerne Blue 72 Formula.

Sikkens is the best there is as far as quality, but I've found since they've changed mix formula's so many times over the years, like many brands have, sometimes you don't get exactly what you're looking for. You'll have to use your best judgement on what you feel is correct with that brand.

When it comes to specific paint codes for the classic cars and it has to be spot on, I like using BASF products because their mix formulas match the old colors perfectly.

You are correct that under the sunlight you'll see a very small amount of metallic with this color, and the base/clear systems help bring this out. The BASF formula calls for about 10% metallic so it's not much at all, but under the right light you can see it.

[John V.]

In case you aren't aware, colors were usually shared across 2 or more GM Divs. When the color was shared, the Sales Code normally was same also, in this case, Sales Code 26. Rare colors might be exclusive to a particular Div. but most colors were not.

Lucerne Blue was Pontiac's marketing name in '72 for this particular color.

Chevy called it Mulsanne Blue. Buick called it Stratomist Blue. Oldsmobile called it Viking Blue and even GMC used it as Bright Blue on the GMC Sprint for '72.

The GM code for this color was WA4069.

It was a metallic (PPG tagged metallic colors as "Poly", short for polychromatic if I recall the history correctly).

The paint companies likely know the color by the Chevy name/code and it isn't necessary for them to identify the color by the alternate names used by the other Divs. The color remains the same.

Assuming you are using a modern paint, the color "match" likely will vary from supplier to supplier. You can find the original paint formula for WA4069 but unless somebody is mixing it up using the old school paint type, pigments, and so on, the best you can do is get a modern paint to mimic the original color. And it will probably appear "correct" or "incorrect" depending on the viewing angle and lighting vs. what the original color might have looked like in same conditions.

I would think guys on this forum can point you to a brand that they found to be very close for their own cars. As a modern base coat/clear coat, it won't look exactly the same. But I don't think there are any survivor cars that were hermetically sealed that would still exhibit the original color as it was when first sprayed and cured. Original paint will have changed hue due to aging, sun exposure, air and pollutant exposure, etc. so hoping for an exact match is probably hopeless. And the modern paint type will cause differences that can't be matched to the original paint type.

Freshly sprayed, I'd bet your Formula will look great and nobody will criticize the color.

Good luck!

[John V.]

Hopefully you're following this thread:

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=829114

[poncho4554spd]

It seems pretty close. Not too much metallic hard to see the color in pics. Some lighting looks more light blue. Other pics it looks darker. Looks good in person..

[poncho4554spd]

Thanks again for the responses. I did use BASF for the undercoats. The Sikkens does look pretty close IMO.

[michaelcruz70]

I am having similar match issues painting my 1970 Pontiac Formula paint code 067, Castilian Bronze. It is being done by a local body shop (I was referred to them by the local POCI club, and he's done several Pontiacs with great results), and he has painted the car twice now trying to match it. I am not sure what brand of paint he is using, but it is a base/clear coat system. Painter refers to same issues brought up here regarding matching a 50 year old paint code to modern systems. But so far the results look just too far out. I know this color was offered by GM for several years; did the paint formula change year to year?
Any experience out there in trying to match this color? I see others with good results with BASF products and will have body shop look into it.
Thanks for any input!

[Aus78Formula]

If you have any decent original paint to match, go with that and ignore the paint codes that are coming up differently.

[eaglesan13]

Here are a couple pictures of my old 1970 Formula 400 that I refurbished a few years back. It was paint code 67, Castilian Bronze. I think my painter used DeBeer paint, but I'm not 100% sure. I could probably get the formula for you if you want. I did not paint the side of the cowl, so the third picture below shows the cowl (original paint) and the door, which had been repainted. I think the match was pretty good. Castilian Bronze is a very nice color when done right.

Originally Posted by michaelcruz70

I am having similar match issues painting my 1970 Pontiac Formula paint code 067, Castilian Bronze. It is being done by a local body shop (I was referred to them by the local POCI club, and he's done several Pontiacs with great results), and he has painted the car twice now trying to match it. I am not sure what brand of paint he is using, but it is a base/clear coat system. Painter refers to same issues brought up here regarding matching a 50 year old paint code to modern systems. But so far the results look just too far out. I know this color was offered by GM for several years; did the paint formula change year to year?
Any experience out there in trying to match this color? I see others with good results with BASF products and will have body shop look into it.
Thanks for any input!

[michaelcruz70]

Thanks for the responses. My car had the original code 67 Castilian Bronze , which over the years faded, got weathered and changed color. The mirrors were darker than the parking light fillers, which were darker than the fiberglass tail panel. Body shop is using PPG water based 2-part system (solvent paints not allowed in "wonderful" California, as I understand). First try just from paint codes came out too light and brown. Then we tried to match the tail panel on a sampling board, but when applied over the whole car, came out looking too "cooper" colored.

If there is a successful formula available, I'd appreciate getting it and see if we can get closer to this color. If not, I am considering a total color change. Thanks all!