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#1
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Changing to late style pump and accessories
Changing my early accessories over to the later style and have a few questions about the pump.
1. Do the sleeves go in dry or with some sealer? 2. My divider clearance is about 0.060" from the impeller. I was planning on getting it closer to 0.030". Worth the effort? 3. I always add a little ultra Grey to the crank/balancer seal when I bang it into the timing cover. Any opinions? Sent from my SCH-R970 using Tapatalk
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Skinned knuckles and empty wallet! Could I be any happier? 66 GTO Convertible. LS3-525 HP. Legend LGT700 5-speed, Wilwood 4-wheel disc brakes, Ridetech coil over front susp, PMT rear susp, Hotchkis bars, Billet Specialties 18" Dagger's (18X9 rear, 18X8 front). 2002 Ram Air WS.6 convertible Trans Am. Wife's car. |
#2
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1. does not hurt to use a little bit of sealer on the sleaves but don't fill the pump with it,
2.Yes and no, yes its worth the effort to close up the gap, I don't recommend pounding your divider to death to do it, (good luck if its a stainless one) I would use a press to move the impeller around on its shaft to take of the tolerance. 3. usually the oil does not leak from between the seal and the housing, its often between the crank and the seal. old cranks may have a groove cut in their surface from many miles of use. When installing a new seal on an old crank, try pressing the seal in put not all they way, that way the new seal can ride on anew and unworn part of the crank. it only requires a very small difference to fix this, option "b" is a speedy sleeve |
#3
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Quote:
but be carefull putzing around moving the impeller around on the shaft. measure 3 times and move it once. if you start moving it back and forth to get it just right, it could loosen up. I think thats why the number of cast impellers are deminishing. by now they have been used and reused so many times on rebuilds they stay loose on the shaft and cant hold tollerances |
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