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#1
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Vinyl Dye process
This sounds a little dumb, but I am going to use the vinyl dye from either PY or Ames to recondition the interior in my Formula, i.e. seat backs, sail panels, lower door panels, etc. should I sand them first with about 220 grit? Or should I not sand them at all. They've never been redyed, if that matters. Also, any advice would help. Thanks
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73 Formula. 9.1:1 400 .030" over, TRW forged pistons, hand ported 6X-4s milled to 85cc, Ferrea 2.11/1.77, Crower 68404 springs, 276°/284° 228°/236° @.050 .474"/.474" 112 LSA, Performer RPM, Shaker Tuned Qjet, Hooker 1.75" headers. TH400, Hughes GM25 converter. 4.10 gear for now. 1st Drive: 12/30/16. *SOLD* 74 Trans Am 455 AT Buccaneer Red |
#2
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What is your purpose in sanding them? If its just for the dye to stick then no you don't need to sand them.
Soft vinyl just needs to be cleaned really well with some kind of surface prep. Hard vinyl also cleaned the same way and use adhesion promotor on the surface before the color. The adhesion promotor is the key to keeping the dye from flaking off. |
#3
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Saw this in a search, not mine.
"what style trim? If its the comfortweave no way. If standard trim,Ive done it and it lasted years. Key is good preperation. Clean and clean again then wipe with a slow lacquer thinner(very hot) this will bite into the vinyl and soften it. Follow with light coats of color,just enough to hide the color under it. If you get it too think it will crack. Buy some good vinyl paint like SEM. Make sure its for vinyl not plastic," |
#4
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The One Coat from PPG is good. You can use it on vinyl, metal, plastic, wood,...etc.
For vinyl, use a damp (not wet) rag with lacquer thinner - it doesn't matter if it's a slow or fast evap. I use a faster evap - then spray a couple/several thin coats. For hard plastic - if it's older/original - scuff it with a fine scotch-bite pad (white or gray) - it doesn't take much - then shoot. For hard plastic, I normally use a matching urethane paint vs a vinyl dye. Always make sure your surfaces are clean - a strong household cleaner is adequate.
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Never trust anything that bleeds for five days and won't die. |
#5
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I just acquired this 72 T/A and all the hard plastic has 'yellowed'. Would this be the same process I follow? Also, as you can see from the picture, the sale panel has cracked. I'm more interested in preserving this interior instead of replacing parts. Is there a process to repair these panels? |
#6
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4mula73: best way to repaint your parts is to use SEm brand plastic & vinyl paint (its not a real dye), follow instruction on can or use these basic prep steps. clean real good with dawn dish soap & a brush or rag, nothing with lotion or hand softener in it, then wipe with rubbing alchohol to remove any left over grease & oil. then spray with an adhesion promoter, SEM sell it but most auto stores have a better value brand called "bulldog" works great. then paint with a couple light coats, then 1 or 2 medium wet coats. then for extra protection on hard plastic panels that can get scratched, i use the SEM low luster clear for a light coat or 2.
i have panels that have beeen coated for 5+ years & look like the day i did it. SEM works great on carpet too in small areas like sun faded or worn by foot traffic. 400guy: you cant really repair that cracked panel, it is probably so brittle that it will crack again & if you did repair the missing chunk with an epoxy or bondo type material you can never match the grain perfectly. it will be better than a missing chunk though. i would source a used panel & repaint it. |
#7
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400guy: you cant really repair that cracked panel, it is probably so brittle that it will crack again & if you did repair the missing chunk with an epoxy or bondo type material you can never match the grain perfectly. it will be better than a missing chunk though. i would source a used panel & repaint it.[/QUOTE
Thank you! Can all the other discolored hard panels be painted as well? |
#8
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absolutely, clean em up real good & follow the steps mentioned above, light scuffing & a wipe with laquer thinner works ok too.
if they are dry rotted & crumbling in areas its best to find a used or new panel. |
#9
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Thanks for all the advice
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73 Formula. 9.1:1 400 .030" over, TRW forged pistons, hand ported 6X-4s milled to 85cc, Ferrea 2.11/1.77, Crower 68404 springs, 276°/284° 228°/236° @.050 .474"/.474" 112 LSA, Performer RPM, Shaker Tuned Qjet, Hooker 1.75" headers. TH400, Hughes GM25 converter. 4.10 gear for now. 1st Drive: 12/30/16. *SOLD* 74 Trans Am 455 AT Buccaneer Red |
#10
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Thank you...much appreciated, I will post up some pics when complete.
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