[MandevilleBird]

I have a grant aftermarket steering wheel. The horn button is is the kind that is held on by friction with a spring holding it awat from the column... anyway, occasionally it will pop of and the horn blows until you fix it. This happened when the car was at the tranny shop. They disconnected the horn wires at each horn on the rad support. Now, after reconnecting everything, I can't get them to work!

I changed the relay...no help.

I can jump them to the battery and they work.

I'm not very good with electrical problems. Any help? testing procedure...?

[Squidward]

1. Verify you have 12v on the horn relay terminal where the 2 red wires connect. If your headlights work when the car is off, then there should be power at the horn relay + terminal since the power for the lights comes off this same supply.

2. There are 2 black wires connected to different terminal tabs. One of the black wires goes back thru the light harness plug on the firewall and to your horn button. The other black wire goes to your horn unit. Ground out the terminal that goes back to the lighting harness. This should complete the circuit for the relay coil, and the relay should energize and give you 12v to your horns.

3. If #1 didn't work (no 12v), check the junction block that connects to the battery + charging wire. In all reality, if there was a problem in the +12v supply to the horn relay terminal, then not much else on your car would work electrically.

4. If #2 didn't work, then check your horn button circuit why it is not grounding out the black horn wire.

I forget if/where there is a fusible link. I'll have to look, or else maybe someone else could chime in.

[Squidward]

Here's a 67 schematic if that helps. It should be pretty much the same. PM me with email if it isn't readable.

[MandevilleBird]

Thanks Squidward...I'll let you know how I do

[Squidward]

Some more info for ya...

The fusible link is a black wire that ties into the same electrical point on the relay as the large + red wire that goes to the alternator + terminal. After about 6 inches or so, that black wire has a rubber chunk around it and it turns into a red wire that feeds back into your firewall harness as your +12v main feed.

The two other black wires from the relay are different thicknesses. The thinner black wire is the one that goes to the horn switch. The thicker black wire is the relay's load side wire (to the horns).

[MandevilleBird]

OK...hopefully, I'll get time to work on this over the weekend.

Thanks for the additional info.

[MandevilleBird]

All the wires checked out. Fusable link still good. Tracked problem all the way to the column. The brass "thing" is not making contact with the turn signal cancel cam(?)...apparently the spring has weekened. I'll pull it apart tonight and see what I can do.