[78savette]

I've been trying to buy my stepson his first car, have about 2500 to 3000 to work with, its been tough, every car I've found (I'm pretty mechanically inclined but theres certain stuff you just can't see/find unless you take it to a certified mechanic, which I fully believe in doing) I've taken two already to my mechanic and they had certain costly problems (i.e. 75,000 mile grand am w/ bad tranny, ect.).
I used to have a Taurus as a company car and drove the heck out of it and it was a pretty darn good car, so I've been trying to find one in good condition.
I found a 99, great condition (interior, exterior), no engine light on, drove excellant, shifted well, 101,000 miles, has the 24V Durotech motor, it was pretty far from my mechanic and the guy didn't want me to go that far in his car, wanted me to take it to another one (of my choice) around him. I wanted my mechanic, he does alot of extra things checking cars out that others do not do, so we negotiated (he's a licensed car dealer) that I pay for the car today, and he put on the warranty paper that I had till 11:30 am tommorow to bring car back, exactly written "MONEY IS REFUNDABLE TILL 11:30 AM 11/6/07 IF CUSTOMERS MECHANIC FINDS SOMETHING SIROUS (his spelling) WRONG WITH VEHICLE. and then he signed right under it.
I should of walked, because I did not feel good about not getting to my mechanic first, well, on the way home, after the 50 mile (or however long it takes for the cycle) the engine light came on. The car dealer also has a mechanic shop so I'm sure he was fully aware of the light, so I'm kinda worried, especially about the vauge "SIROUS", seems like he may of know what he was doing on that. I couldn't wait to take it to my 830 am appt with my mechanic, so I went to Auto Zone to get the engine light deciphered, 4 codes, I need some opinions about if anyone thinks he can say these are not serious (I can spell).

P1744 Ford Definition- Transmission slippage detected. Explanation-ECM has detected an excessive amount of slippage during normal driving conditions.
Probable causes- 1)Low fluid level 2)Failed Transmision

P0133 Domestic (also has a OBDII, but I'm listing Domestic because I do not know what OBDII is) Defination-H02S-11 slow response (heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 1. Explanation- The powertrain control module uses the oxygen sensor to calculate the air/fuel ratio in the exhaust.
Probable causes- 1. Oxygen sensor defective 2. Fuel System running rich or lean-check other codes first.

P1131 Ford Definition Lack of bank 1 02 transistions- Lean. Explanation- ECM detected bank 1 02 at its lean limit.
Probable causes- 1. Misfire on bank 1 2. Vacuum leak affecting bank 1 only 3. Fuel injector problem bank 1 4. Engine mechanical condition.

P0500 Domestic (also showing the OBDII w/ other definitions) Definition- vehicle speed sensor circuit condition. Explanation- The ECM has detected a fault in the vehicle sensor unit.
Probable Causes-1. Poor electrical connection or short circuit condition. 2. Failed vehicle speed sensor. 3. Drive gear mechanical fault.

Also, I realize buying that cheap of a car you are going to have certain issues, I just have been taking it my mechanic to make sure there are no major cost issues, things that cost lots of money and keep the boy from being able to get it inspected. It has me worried that the seller has a mechanic shop, I'm sure he knew of these issues, and he knew I was taking it to my mechanic who I told him will go through it with a fine tooth comb, are any of the issues considered not sirous (serious). I know the tranny one is, but he had too know that would pop up, unless he thought I would not drive the car far enough to cycle, any advise/suggestions would be greatly appreciated, Thanks in advance, David

[ambmech1]

Still keep your appointment with the mechanic. The trans. code could be serious but may also be caused by the failed vehicle speed sensor. At 110,000 miles the O2 sensors probably do need to be replaced. Thats at the end of thier life cycle.

[KEVGTO]

I would look for something else. Preferably something a little older with RWD and a Carb. possibly, easier to work on. You can get a decent car (driver) that you and your son can tinker with on the side to make it the way he wants it.
I just sold a 87' Monte Carlo SS for 2,500 that ran and drove good, but had older orig. paint that was faded. But a dependable car none the less.

[Old Blue 66]

First off, a 99 Taurus is a 1500 - 2000 car at best. If you have anything on paper for more than that, Id walk away. Too much money for that car. Plus anything with those kinda codes are "code" for - I have problems!!

While it might not be the most popular response around this forum, Id consider getting your hands on an older car with fewer miles. For about 3K, you could find an older Honda Accord (maybe 92 or 93) with under 100K and far less electronics. maybe (soley becuase he's a kid) might like a Civic. Both easy to work on.

I see cars come though our auction all the time in this price range with low miles and the parents are doing just what your doing...looking for a kids car.

Take your time, buy from a private party and you'll find a good car. You'll probibly see a bunch of cars that you'll pass on.

[salem1912]

101,000 miles, has the 24V Durotech ???? may some Ford Techs can better advise but I would stay away from that motor, and look for something like a std 3.0/3.8L IMO

[mike nixon]

that trans code tells me the converter's on it's way out. it's a common taurus problem at that mileage.

the lean sounds like a vaccum leak or a faulty o2 sensor.


i'm not a fan of the taurus,especially with high miles. i'd be on the hunt for a fullsized gm. you can buy bonnies/ old 88's / lesabre's and park aves for your price range and less all day long up here. i just found a customer a mid 90's park for less than a grand that needed an ign coil and brakes. she had under 2k in it with all the fluids changed and the obvious problems repaired and everything works on the car. we sold her vw that didn't fit her needs for 2k and she's a LOT happier with the park.

mike

[mike nixon]

btw, the ford techs around here refer to the taurus as the most troublesome car in america.

mike

[78savette]

Agree with all the above, although the lower mileage Taurus/Sables, 97-2000, are selling for over 3,000 here, and you can not find a Honda/Toyota under 150,000 miles here for under 3,500, unless its really beat up or something major is wrong, but I will keep looking, its hard in that price range to find something reliable, we've been looking for around 3 weeks, stepson is patient though. Auctions are tough to buy here, I have wholesaled cars most my life, they are coming from Mexico and up North and making buying at the dealers auction worse than buying at a used car lot, they give lots of $ for cars, especially Hondas, Toyotas, ect. The best bet is from an individual (whole salers usually get them first if its a good deal) or a lot believe it or not.
Did get my $ back this morning, it was a hassle, took all morning, but got it back. Thanks for all the input, anyone know of a good deal in the 2500 to 3000 price range around Texas please let me know, David C.

[Old Blue 66]

You might actually check with Bill Morgan (board member name the same) on this board. Hes always finding cool older cars around Texas. Maybe he knows of something else. Never hurts to ask.

[KEVGTO]

Or better yet, pick up a local trader mag. I find deals any given week on cars that I can flip and make a profit at.
Try craigslist and racingjunk also. All kinds of cheap stuff to be had if you look hard enough. Try peoples back yards for cheap projects and such. Plenty of way's to find cheap affordable cars without the hassles of financing.

[67drake]

My Silverado 2500 was killing me on gas a few years ago so I asked a buddy of mine,who owns a shop, what cheap driver car to get or avoid in the $2500- $3500 range.He said any Lumina,88,Regal with the 3.8 is the way to go.2 years and 130K with only a brake job and a headlight switch on my 98' Lumina.Cheap insurance and I've got over 30 MPG on the highway.