[71ModelJ]

My son picked up the summit headers and trying to get these nightmares in. From the front bolts #4 on both sides near impossible. There is a bolt slot on both headers. You have to put gasket on first then start bolt thread, then slide header over bolt and gasket. Got both sides on now header hits that bolt and the others won't line up. Gonna have to clearance both sides. This is almost as much fun as the 67 goat I did with Hookers.

[1967Tempest]

Yeah, that bolt is a nightmare. I found two things help.

1. ARP studs with 5/16 head. Makes for easy wrenching.

2. To get that bolt in. Put all the other bolts in very very loosely. Like 1 thread. Then from below, you can snake up into that small area with a swivel 5/16 socket with 1/4 drive. Tape the bolt into the socket, get like 3 extensions and it will start!! Then through the wheel well, use a thin 5/16 wrench to get it snugged up. Then use a regular 5/16 wrench and really torque on it.

This might work for a 3/8 bolt as well. The key is to loosely install the header. that way the header is as far away from the head as possible while still being lined up. You will see what I mean when you try it.

HTH,
Dave!!

[71ModelJ]

Originally Posted by 1967Tempest

Yeah, that bolt is a nightmare. I found two things help.

1. ARP studs with 5/16 head. Makes for easy wrenching.

2. To get that bolt in. Put all the other bolts in very very loosely. Like 1 thread. Then from below, you can snake up into that small area with a swivel 5/16 socket with 1/4 drive. Tape the bolt into the socket, get like 3 extensions and it will start!! Then through the wheel well, use a thin 5/16 wrench to get it snugged up. Then use a regular 5/16 wrench and really torque on it.

This might work for a 3/8 bolt as well. The key is to loosely install the header. that way the header is as far away from the head as possible while still being lined up. You will see what I mean when you try it.

HTH,
Dave!!

Not following you. An ARP stud with a 5/16 head? The exhaust port is 3/8-16. Even if you put a stud in you still need a nut. you sure you didn't mean a 7/16 headed header bolt? The problem is #4 exhaust tube on both sides hits the header bolt and will not allow the header to come over far enough to get the other bolt threads started. If I missed something please let me know. The only way I see to do it is to heat up the side of the tube and clearance it about 1/8 inch.Thanks Mike

[GTOLou]

He means a bolt with a 5/16 head. Not a stud.

Most of those bolts come with a 7/16 head. 3/8 head is common and a good size. Easy to get.

ARP does make a bolt with a smaller head (5/16). Just gotta make sure you get the right length.


You really only need to buy a cheap set of headers ONCE...and then you never do it again. I am helping a buddy fix a blown head gasket and his headers suck. I NEVER scrimp on quality of headers. PLUS, they wear out earlier, have thinner flanges and leak, and hang lower.....


FWIW.

[GTOLou]

And BTW - you can get a stud that has a normal 3/8-16 bolt that is smaller on the side that sticks out of the head and takes a smaller bolt than a 3/8-16 threaded bolt.

I'll try and find a linky..

[GTOLou]

here is the Mr gasket stud that has two sizes for the stud shaft. It has the 3/8-16 and a smaller shaft the the header "nut". These are not the strongest and can strip. I'd only use if for problem areas...

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MRG-3415/

[1967Tempest]

Originally Posted by GTOLou

He means a bolt with a 5/16 head. Not a stud.

Yup. Sorry. Also have to agree the cheaper the header the worse off you will be in clearances. I bought an 80$ pair once.

Dave

[Don 79 TA]

i second the ARP 5/16 bolts/studs
did them on my wifes FireBird some years ago...
AWESOME indeed
easier to get a 1/4" ratchet in there too

[Tripower455]

I reinstalled my Dougs today after changing a head gasket. I have a shortened 7/16" wrench I use for the rear center bolts. The others are 3/8" head and easy to get. It was almost as easy as cast iron manifolds. It took me about 20 minutes.

[71ModelJ]

Originally Posted by Tripower455

I reinstalled my Dougs today after changing a head gasket. I have a shortened 7/16" wrench I use for the rear center bolts. The others are 3/8" head and easy to get. It was almost as easy as cast iron manifolds. It took me about 20 minutes.

That's because there Doug's headers. They have more clearance around the #3 tube. I wish my son had spent the extra money and bought the Doug's. We'll be pulling it apart anyway later to build a stroker. They'll be O.K. after I heat those two areas or that stud kit sounds like a good idea.Anybody know the size wrench used on the nuts in the stud kit? Mike

[Tripower455]

Originally Posted by 71ModelJ

That's because there Doug's headers. They have more clearance around the #3 tube.

Actually, the only PITA one is the one behind the #6 exhaust port. That's the 7/16 headed one. You have to get that one started first, and then do the others. #3 is real easy on mine.

I love the Dougs. They really fit perfectly. No smashing the #7 tube to clear the clutch countershaft and nice thick flanges, so they don't leak. The only issue is that I can't change a full size oil filter without removing the header or oil filter adapter, but I have a Lakewood scattershield that is in the way by about 1/4". With a regular bellhousing or auto, it would be cake. Until I get around to grinding the scattershield the next time it's off, I am using filters for a 425 Caddy.

[x-bird2]

Originally Posted by 71ModelJ

Not following you. An ARP stud with a 5/16 head? The exhaust port is 3/8-16. Even if you put a stud in you still need a nut. you sure you didn't mean a 7/16 headed header bolt? The problem is #4 exhaust tube on both sides hits the header bolt and will not allow the header to come over far enough to get the other bolt threads started. If I missed something please let me know. The only way I see to do it is to heat up the side of the tube and clearance it about 1/8 inch.Thanks Mike

once you've got the header slid on, can you work that bolt in until it's almost snug to get the clearance you need to the tube? you may want to try a 3/8 headed bolt in that spot, or dimple the tube as you suggest.

[1967Tempest]

I always wondered if one could cut that tube and bend it over and back down. SImiliar to what the Mopar guys have going on.

[71ModelJ]

Headers are in! Just clearanced the tubes on both sides with a little heat and a tapered line up punch. Headers actually fit good around the Z-bar. Oil filter may be a challenge. Hopefully the 400 will fire up today if we get our new march pulley setup UPS. Thank's for the input everyone.

[Thomasmoto]

Originally Posted by 71ModelJ

Headers are in! Just clearanced the tubes on both sides with a little heat and a tapered line up punch. Headers actually fit good around the Z-bar. Oil filter may be a challenge. Hopefully the 400 will fire up today if we get our new march pulley setup UPS. Thank's for the input everyone.

Congrats! I feel the same way whenever dealing with them on my 79 or my daughters 77.

[1967Tempest]

I will say this about the oil filter. When I had the headers the oil filter WAS a pain. I had to use the low profile filter. Now with the manifolds I run a full size Wix filter.

I am glad the the headers cleared the Z-bar without too much trouble. Does the Z-bar go through the headers or around them?

Dave

[71ModelJ]

Originally Posted by 1967Tempest

I will say this about the oil filter. When I had the headers the oil filter WAS a pain. I had to use the low profile filter. Now with the manifolds I run a full size Wix filter.

I am glad the the headers cleared the Z-bar without too much trouble. Does the Z-bar go through the headers or around them?

Dave

Goes through them. Gotta re route the positive starter cable though.

[1967Tempest]

Originally Posted by 71ModelJ

Gotta re route the positive starter cable though.

During new cam break-in I had the positive touch the headers and burn through and start to arc and spark!! Nice show. Had to get a new positive...