[1967Tempest]

I got the downpipes in place and I was going to start to measure and cut. Which do you guys prefer on your exhaust.

Should I cut and then put the pipes together with connectors and weld the connectors,or should I cut the intermediate pipe and butt welded it to the down pipe?

Thanks,
Dave

[Bnick166]

One weld will look a lot cleaner that 2.....

[1967Tempest]

true. Plus it is cheaper!!!

Thanks,
Dave

[P@blo]

Tempest,
can you post some video so we can hear the ticking?

[1967Tempest]

oooh.... I might have deleted the video I took when it was ticking. I found that the gaskets were not seated on most of the header surfaces. There were burn marks on the front of some and rear of others. I will post after and around the engine. I was hoping ti weld up the new downpipes and exhaust today, but ran out of time. Maybe tomorrow. Definitely before next weekend..

Dave

[P@blo]

Thanks Dave.

Brent

[Thomasmoto]

Get a set of Remflex header gaskets and you won't have to bother with them again. Mine leaked like sin and have been leak free since using the Remflex gaskets 3 years ago. I drive my car A Lot and have nitrous. If that won't blow-em I don't know what will. I even plan to be a long hauler on the Hot Rod Power Tour this year- which will be about 3,000 miles start to finish for me and I'm not worried at all about the header gaskets.

sorry I see you cut-em off. Never mind.

[1967Tempest]

Yeah, the exhaust lives on to piss me off. I got the driverside in and realized that I had my downpipes on the wrong side. I had to remove all of the bolts etc.. and move it over... I am one weld away from being finished. I hate exhaust......


I would totally do the power tour if it was closer to me. Gas is just below 4$ here. Cant afford that much fuel.. Maybe next year!!!!

[1967Tempest]

the funny thing is that the exhaust might actually ne louder than with the headers... I can't get this things quiet to save me life!!!

[Engine-Ear]

...me thinks it's time to lick your wounds and take 'er to an exhaust shop...

[67ramairowner]

Originally Posted by Engine-Ear

Feel your pain, brother...in addition to leaks (noise, lean-out) I have never liked how the driver's side header tubes have to be routed on '62s (esp those with a clutch!)...as a result, I continue to beat the drum for second-gen Long Branch HOs for any '62 that's built for the street.

Another anti header guy here. I had a 67 Ram Air car (Second owner) that had Doug Thorley headers on it. The car constantly had heat soak issues...it was near impossible to start when it was hot outside...I tried EVERYTHING..batteries, heavier cables, new starters, solenoids...all to no avail.

One day after yet another hideous effort messing with the starter or solenoid or WHATEVER down there I got sloppy puttting the car back together and had a fire down by the starter when the engine melted the insulation on the + battery cable. That was the last straw!!!! Off with the headers and on with new engine pipes and the factory RA manifolds. The car was more fun to drive almost IMMEDIATELY. No noise from leaks, less heat inside the car in the summer time, easy starting...I had it all.

If I had a car with headers given to me right now I would run right out and take a Sawz-All to the damn things before I even drove it once.

[1967Tempest]

Originally Posted by Engine-Ear

...me thinks it's time to lick your wounds and take 'er to an exhaust shop...

That is what I am thinking. Trouble is that I can't see or afford the loot right now and I am working by my self!!! I think that if I can't get it licked with some help, then yes, throw the pipes in the car and have them disassemble and reassemble it the right way..........

I hate exhaust.

[Sirrotica]

Dave, as I told you way back, RTV is your friend when assembling a leak free exhaust system. You don't have to be working on headers. I used it 2 months ago when I changed the crossover pipe on my 93 Turbo Diesel K3500. The dounuts on the manifolds were in rough shape and it was about 9 PM and I wasn't going to drive 20 miles round trip to the nearest town and try to find some new ones. Red RTV on them and tightened them up and no leaks. A crossover pipe on a turbo is a great testament for how well the RTV works as there is plenty of backpressure and heat when your trying to spin a turbocharger. Believe me if I hadn't thought it would work there is no way I would have ever put it together as there are 3 bolts on either flange and they are not easily accessed.
I would have hated to have to tear it apart and do it over again.

Again the RTV worked flawlessly in the same way I have been using it to assemble any exhaust on any of my cars where there was a possibility of leakage at any joint, same thing I've been using since the mid 80s on all my stuff and any customer exhaust work I've done in the past.

If I were you and you still have leaks, I'd put it between the heads and the manifolds, on the flanges where the pipes mate to the manifolds and I guess you welded the new head pipes to the existing pipes you had left behind the headers. You need to find out where your leaks are by starting the car and running your hands over suspected leak points, you'll feel the leaks with your fingers.

I'm trying to make your job easier here..................

[1967Tempest]

I did use RTV between the heads and the manifolds. I did not think to use rtv on the ball flange between the manifold and downpipe!! I will use that!!! SWEET!!!

Thanks
Dave

[Sirrotica]

It doesn't take much of an imperfection to have a leak, and overtightening the bolts or nuts to seal it is risky business. I hope it does the trick for you, I know how frustrating this can be...............

Brad

[blueghoast]

Somthing I always do is test fit my headers with the motor on the engine stand.
I make sure that you can get a wrench on each and every bolt (BOXED END) too
Dimple as needed. I also make sure the mating flange at the head surface is flat
on the header somtimes I have to weld some to build them up then grind flat.
Then a reguler gasket work fine. But then again after 100 years you would think
That they could make a good frigging header. Dougs does but they are pricey.

[1967Tempest]

I think that I might have found my exhaust issue. I had headers on the car when I bought it so, I never saw the stock exhaust. Well It was done without tail pipes and straight pipes as the intermediate pipe after the down pipe. So it was straight!!!!! So I need either DGU11 from our host or equivalent. This will allow the exhaust to sit in place correctly. Now it is just trying to go around without the proper bends....

Any one know where I can get these parts cheap? I have a STRICT budget and need a cheap outlet.

Thanks
Dave

[1967Tempest]

I love the RTV idea. I just removed the manifolds from the 62 389 to go on its new engine. 72 350 and I RTV'ed the manifold and gasket.

It just looks like it is gonna seal better.

It is now an S.O.P.

Thanks!!

Dave

[Sirrotica]

I told you that that works wonderful on exhaust, now you believe me........LOL

[Steve Barcak]

Headers are a great performance improver and I use them on all my Pontiacs with no issues. For you stick shift advocates, more maintenence and trouble is just a fact of life. Automatic equipped cars are much easier to work on and service. Headers go in and out much easier.

Another issue related to headers is the chassis you work on. The early 64 to 67 GTOs have much less room than the 68 and newers so, if you like the early ones, that is fine but, expect it to be harder. I just put another motor in my 66 and was reminded how much harder it was to do than my 72.

Finally, if you like headers, understand that the round port design is much better to work on as the bolts are spaced further apart. Keep this in mind BEFORE you invest big money into alum d port heads. If you are going to alum heads, use the round port layout as it will make servicing your Pontiac much, much nicer.

Headers on a Pontiac can be very trouble free if done right and you reap the benefit of using them.
Sorry for your troubles.