[ReelFun]

I am getting frustrated! I just put my new engine in my 65 GTO. 389, with 65 Tri-Power, I broke it in with only the center carb. It runs great with the one carb. I put my other two carbs on and have leaks at the front and rear carbs where the lines go into the fuel blocks.

I have Mike Wasson's Tri-Power video and installed the lines like he did in the video. I have rebuilt all 3 carbs. I even bought new fuel blocks this week, hoping that would fix the leaks. Tried them tonight and still leaking, though not as bad. I tried to make sure the lines were seated properly and going straight into the fuel blocks. I snugged them down more. Everything I have tried has not worked. Should I try a new set of lines or what?

[tom s]

I found small copper gaskets made for Refrigeration.They work GREAT for fuel line sealing..They come in both 3/8 and 5/16 size.Will try to find you a link,got them on Amazon..I use them on all my carbs.Tom

[tom s]

Search Zoro copper flare gaskets.Tom

[ReelFun]

Thanks Tom, I will try to find them.

[ReelFun]

Tom, I see some are flared and some are flat. Which ones do you use? The flats?

[b-man]

Are you using any kind of lube on the tube nut threads?

I use a dab of copper high-heat anti-seize on the tube nut threads and a little behind the flare inside the nut to help get things tight and to prevent thread and tube flare galling.

I just installed a new set of repro fuel lines and fuel blocks on my '64 Tri-Power and the lines sealed up fine with no need for the copper sealing washers Tom uses. Maybe the new lines will work without the washers but perhaps after they've been installed and removed a few times those washers may come in handy.

[tom s]

Bart,I don't even screw around anymore.I use them on all installations.Holleys,AFBs,QJs etc.Tom

[ReelFun]

Bart, I just put them on dry.

[Dick Boneske]

The flare nuts should always be lubed before tightening the fittings. It helps as Bart said, but also keeps the lines from twisting when tightened.

Also, be aware that once the aluminum lines are tightened too tight, the flares are flattened and will not seal.

Third, are you sure the leak is not at the 1/8" pipe threads in the carb airhorn? It's really hard to tell if gas is leaking out of the flare fitting or from the tapered pipe joint.

Fourth, it's wise to install the lines with the carbs not fastened down. This allows them to move a little and may avoid poor contact with the flare to the brass fittings.

[400 4spd.]

I find the fourth tip as most useful. I do the same with any carb, 2 or 4 barrel.
Recently I've been having fits with a '66 Tri-Power set up that was "leaking'. Today I discovered the "leak" is due to a bad float letting the rear carb over run with fuel.

A new float is on the way from PontiacTripower. Ordered and shipped today. Who else ships out on a Saturday?
I also bought the video with a prior parts order. It's a 'MUST HAVE" for anyone working on a Tri-Power system.

[ReelFun]

I think my flares may be flattened. I have a flaring tool, do you think I could re-flare them?

[b-man]

No.

I think a new set of fuel lines are in your future, Dick can set you up.

[Dick Boneske]

Originally Posted by ReelFun

I think my flares may be flattened. I have a flaring tool, do you think I could re-flare them?

You can't re-flare them as they would be too short after cutting off the old and adding a new flare.

[ReelFun]

I was thinking just more or less reforming the original flares. Got a show I entered next Saturday and just wanted to get it drivable with all three carbs. I already ordered new lines. I had new lines already and I guess I must have overtightened them when I mocked them up or installed them. Thanks for everyones help. I will repost results after I install the new lines.

[Pontiac62]

I went through two set of leaking lines before I had Jon Havens make a set of lines out of steel. Since then I have not had any leaks.
Apparently the aluminum ones were OK for a couple removals, then wouldn't seal. The steel lines are a little harder to line up properly, but do not leak. I may have to try those copper seals on my old lines next time I take them apart.

[ReelFun]

Thanks everyone for the help. I tended up finding the copper seals that Tom recommeded at Grainger. I had to wait a day for them to get them but I put them on tonight and finally I think the lines sealed.

[Dick Boneske]

Please post a picture of the copper seals. I've never heard of or seen these. Do they go inside the female flare brass fitting?

[tom s]

Dick,easy to find.Read up a few posts,I put what to search.They are made for the A/C industry.A mechanic friend turned me on to them years ago.Mine came thru amazon.They go between the flair and the fitting.They are copper so they crush to mate the line and the fitting.Tom

[ReelFun]

https://www.grainger.com/product/PAR...e-Gasket-5WRW2

Dick, the link above is where I ordered them.

[Tom Vaught]

Buy stuff occasionally from Grainger store near me. Will have to ask about the gaskets mentioned in the thread. Thanks very much for the tip Tom S and the link ReelFun.

Tom V.