[Rugratman]

Mike restored them for me, again.
This time I went with the natural color. No carb paint.

I also added the electric choke for it. With the KRE's and no cross over, I have been foot choking it for years.

Start up is tonight.

[Tom Vaught]

Looks nice.

Tom V.

[Jack Gifford]

How is the alternator driven?

[Rugratman]

With the belt as normal. Not sure I am following you.

[Tom Vaught]

Some of the old GTOs had the belt wrapped around the Alternator Pulley and then it went to the Power Steering Pulley. Assume that P-Jack was thinking along those lines.
If I look a bit harder I can see the two separate belts, like the later GTOs had.

Tom V.

[Old Goat Racer]

Throttle cable looks like it mite be stretched out too far and not high enough at the back ??

[Rugratman]

I always wondered what was the correct hole for the cable. How much play should you have?
1 hole or 2?
Space up the bracket? That would raise the intake bolt side of the bracket as well.

Tom - Gotcha on the pulley's. I have a 2 pulley set up.

Note: My fuel line/nut to the rear carb finally gave up.
drip drip, after 15 years it wont seal anymore.
New one on the way.

[Old Goat Racer]

I'd go with the middle hole so that the front half won't catch on the inner cable and maybe raise the back 1/2".
Is that a tripower bracket ?
Of course check for WOT.

[chrisp]

Originally Posted by Rugratman

I always wondered what was the correct hole for the cable. How much play should you have?
1 hole or 2?
Space up the bracket? That would raise the intake bolt side of the bracket as well.

Tom - Gotcha on the pulley's. I have a 2 pulley set up.

Note: My fuel line/nut to the rear carb finally gave up.
drip drip, after 15 years it wont seal anymore.
New one on the way.

I see you are using thick gaskets , that is why you have to raise the bracket .

[Old Goat Racer]

Originally Posted by chrisp

I see you are using thick gaskets , that is why you have to raise the bracket .

Good eye

[Rugratman]

Actually those are the phenolic spacers. Mike is selling them to help combat the heat/ethanol issues.
You are correct, I will raise the bracket up.

[aceaceca]

Air conditioned cars use a single belt driving the alt and the power steering. The second belt drives the ac compressor on the other side. I had squealing belt syndrome on mine with a 100 amp single wire alternator. Solved it by getting a deep groove pulley and replacing a bolt or nut that had disappeared, and by using the factory recommended sequence of belt tensioning in the shop manual.

[Dick Boneske]

Originally Posted by Rugratman

I always wondered what was the correct hole for the cable. How much play should you have?
1 hole or 2?
Space up the bracket? That would raise the intake bolt side of the bracket as well.

Tom - Gotcha on the pulley's. I have a 2 pulley set up.

Note: My fuel line/nut to the rear carb finally gave up.
drip drip, after 15 years it wont seal anymore.
New one on the way.

I really wonder when I read a comment like that above! The carbs must be wide open when the accelerator pedal is floored. If the carbs are wide open before the pedal is floored, something is going to break in the linkage. Having this condition is the reason why so many center carb throttle levers loosen on the shaft with too much strain because the cable linkage was not set properly.

The opposite condition, where the carbs do not open fully, lowers the performnace of the entire Tripower setup.

Normally, you need two people to determine the correct cable setting. Disconnect the cable from the center carb and have someone hold the pedal to the floor. Hold the center carb wide open and hold the cable next to the carb stud to see if it matches the position of the carb stud. You can move the cable forward or back some by moving it in the cable bracket or bending the bracket, Sometimes it is necessary to cut the slot in the cable bracket to allow fore & aft movement of the cable housing to suit the carb opening.

1964 was the only year where Pontiac provided three holes in the cable end to allow easier adjustment for WOT. Ames sells a cable that has three holes that can be used in other years besides '64.

And, as some have pointed out in this old thread, the height of the cable bracket is important for correct geometry. Remember, on the '64's the factory welded a spacer piece in the bracket to raise it on Tripower cars. Spacers under the bracket can accomplish the same.

FWIW, the above applies to all carb configurations, not just Tripowers.

[Tom Vaught]

Originally Posted by Rugratman

Actually those are the phenolic spacers. Mike is selling them to help combat the heat/ethanol issues.
You are correct, I will raise the bracket up.

I actually ran a set of those spacers for several years, in Missouri, in the late 60s.
Worked very well.

Tom V.

[Jack Gifford]

Some folks also use stainless studs and nuts to reduce heat transfer to the carbs. While I agree that most stainless alloys have slightly lower thermal conductivity, it seems too trivial a difference to bother???

[tom s]

I have a Xtra set of spacers if anyone needs them.61-65.Tom

[eric65]

Is that an aluminum manifold? Looks like it, if so did you do any port matching?

Do the Kauffman heads have the exhaust cross over open??, I thought most don't have the exhaust open. Mike told me I didn't need the spacers as the heat would be dissipated better with aluminum uppers especially with no exhaust heat hitting the intake.
just a thought

[Rugratman]

Mike and John now have the correct throttle cable. I got rid of the generic cable. This one is MUCH better.
When I mentioned the play in the cable = Should the cable be tighter or have a little play before taught in a sense? I look at car shows and some have a huge slack, some none.

I do not have the crossover on the heads.
Part of the reason, I got the spacers and the restoration is the Maryland ethanol was giving me fits. Its is the aluminum intake.
I went 10 years and never touched anything, ran great (Mike did them before). The last few years the rear carb would gunk up. I think from sitting hot after parking it. My garage would smell bad too.
The spacers help this.
Also, I stripped a screw hole in the air horn from removing the lid too much. Maybe over tightening too. He fixed that.
Maybe I dont need the spacers. I dont know yet.

[vidguy]

Very nice!

[Dick Boneske]

With the heat riser passage blocked or the cylinder head heat riser passage filled, the spacers would not be needed for insulating the carbs. Many of the '61/'62 setups I've bought through the years have phenolic spacers that were factory or dealer installed. These flat pancake manifolds got very hot with the heat riser passage open to exhaust gas.

The only reason for spacers if the passage is blocked would be to tune the setup for better performance at certain RPM's. A 1/4" spacer would not accomplish this.