[michaelroy]

Thanks guys for the help!
As far the carb issue I will have to wait to see if the local guy can get them fixed. If not I will be in touch Dick.
As for the ignition problem pfilean, I am on my second switch. The original switch was burnt up inside and I also found the yellow wire(ign. 2) damaged about 2" from the connector. Wiring on down the harness looked fine. I replaced the short piece of wire with one a little heaver. Put the replacement switch in and it worked fine for a few start ups but next day went back to not working correctly.
Put the 2nd replacement switch in and it worked fine for a few days, now back to original issue.
Could it be the coil or the solenoid I am having trouble with. You are correct, the coil is loosing power while the key is turned all the way to the right in start position but when key is released car fires up.

[pfilean]

I guess this thread has been properly hi-jacked but we can continue here. Maybe we can get all questions answered.

The ignition problem has nothing to do with the solenoid. As long as the starter kicks in and turns over you should be good. However, if you happen to have a solenoid with the extra coil terminal you may have way around your problem. I don't remember off hand what that terminal is labeled but if you have two small studs on the solenoid you may be in luck. Some GM solenoids used this second terminal as part of the starting system to get starting power to the coil. And the GM solenoids are somewhat interchangeable. Who knows what someone else may have done in the last 50 years? If you have the second terminal run a a wire from it to the coil + and see if that works. Don't run the wire from the terminal on the solenoid for the starting function (usually has a purple wire) as you will have a back-feeding to the solenoid from the coil in run function. Probably overload something and cause other trouble.

Sounds like you have some POs that have messed it up a bit. That happens especially with wiring. Maybe that ignition/starter wire to the coil has been shorted and fused to some of the other wires within the loom. Keep working with one problem at a time and keep that car on the road.

[Dick Boneske]

Michael,

Your "local guy," unless he is familiar with Tripowers, will not likely fix your sticking throttle problem. Remember, this problem has nothing to do with the end carbs or even the fact that this is a Tripower setup. If you follow my suggestions, you can fix this on your own without the risk of expanding to more problems.

As I suggested, remove the accelerator pump rod and drive the car--see if the problem persists. If it does, the problem is the throttle cable or accelerator pedal sticking or possibly something causing the throttle plates to stick partly open. I believe the problem will disappear with the rod taken out.

I described to you in a previous post how to check and fix the problem if it is in the accelerator pump mechanism.

As pfilean attempted to describe to you, the lack of ignition when starting is not related to the solenoid. There should be two wires on the positive terminal of the ignition coil. One of them provides 12 volts to the coil when starting. The other is a resistance wire that provides approx. 7-9 volts to the coil for the run mode. Both those wires come from the ignition switch through the dash harness and engine harness.

I gave you my phone number to call or text. Don't get discouraged. These problems are not hard to fix.

[22times]

I had the same problem with the pump rod. I used a Standard Hygrade rebuild kit for my carbs and the accelerator pump that came in the kit was wrong. The plunger would bottom out inside the carb hard enough that it would bend the external rod. It would also pull the metal pushrod out of the plastic plunger. I ended up having to buy a pump plunger from Wright's Tri-power and that cured my issue. The plunger looks the same, so maybe someone on here can shed light on what's different.

Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

[Dick Boneske]

I've had problems with some of the plastic accelerator pumps coming apart where the metal rod enters the plastic body of the pump.

I use only Tomco and Walker Fuel Products kits now and have had no problems with them. NAPA sells excellent pump assemblies also, but they're pricey.

Remember, there are only two different plungers for Pontiac Tripowers. A small one for the small Rochesters and a larger one for the larger end carbs and center carb on '66's.