#1  
Old 10-17-2015, 01:51 AM
android 211 android 211 is offline
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Default G Body front suspension

Is there any consensus about what should be done to improve G body handling?
I have some Gen II Firebird front spindles; can those be used to improve geometry?
I already have a GN front sway bar and an aftermarket 1" rear bar plus boxed rear control arms. But the front end is supposed to be no better than '64-'72 A body.

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Old 10-17-2015, 10:45 AM
oldtinsmith oldtinsmith is offline
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I must tell you that I'm NOT an authority on suspensions. That said, it may be helpful if you will say how you intend to use your car. Will it be a daily driver, road cruiser, show car, drag racer, auto-x/road race, etc. Do you have a maximum budget? A final point, remember that the G-body factory F-41 suspension (and braking for that matter) is at best 25 year old technology.
IMHO, the factory f-41 would be real good for a daily driver or cruiser.

Doug

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Old 10-17-2015, 07:43 PM
jerry455 jerry455 is offline
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I am going to install S-10 front knuckles to utilize the dual piston caliper and the 1" bigger rotor and a third gen F car 36mm front stabilizer bar and poly bushings. I will be also trying to stiffen chassis by welding in gussets and boxing control arms also.

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Old 10-17-2015, 07:56 PM
John62 John62 is offline
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Have you looked at the SC&C body bracing kits. The front triangle brace has been used by a few with very good results.

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Old 10-18-2015, 04:23 AM
android 211 android 211 is offline
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The car is a daily driver. Sometimes I like to take exit ramps and corners at the limits of adhesion, something I'm reluctant to explore as it is right now. It has stock springs, the ride quality is very nice. I have some Moog Cargo Coils I'm mulling installing in back. Global West has some upper control arms which are advertised to improve camber but they're near $600. I'm running 215/65R15s all around right now.

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Old 10-19-2015, 03:03 AM
rexs73gto rexs73gto is offline
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The front end parts of your G-body is the same as the 70-81 F-body cars. They use all the same parts. So if you go looking for parts to swap into it look at those parts. Keep in mind the parts fro the 70-77 F-body parts are the same as the 73-77 A-body parts to. &8-81 F-body uses a different size bearing but will also work on your car if you use the different front spindle bearings. But all the parts will interchange.

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Old 10-19-2015, 07:02 AM
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Mr Twister Mr Twister is offline
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No Rex, All the parts are different. What you probably were thinking is that the 1LE spindles and rotors is a common mod. That mod makes the front track wider and doesn't help with bump steer. There is no cheap way to make the front end on the G-body perfect. An expensive one is here: http://scandc.com/new/node/742

I have done all the common stuff to my GP and its not bad/not great. I think modern rubber is the next thing to do (no 15 inch tires).

FYI, when looking for all the different bracing that the G-bodys The later Grand Prix's have most of it installed from the factory. So, look at those in the junk yard for braces.

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Old 10-19-2015, 08:24 AM
oldtinsmith oldtinsmith is offline
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Mr Twister, you are correct about the parts interchange on to the G-body (and the tires)! android 211,,,I believe in the old saying:"fast ain't cheap, and cheap ain't fast"! IMHO, the very best thing to do to your daily driver is to buy the best shocks you can afford (like maybe a Bilstein, etc.). Then, the best tires (and wheels?) you can afford. With out shocks and tires, your new suspension parts won't work at their optimum!

Doug

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Old 10-19-2015, 03:07 PM
android 211 android 211 is offline
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Well there is something to be said for going fast over bumpy roads and not having the fillings shaken out of your teeth. The car is a 87 Cutlass with a 500 Cadillac installed. Aluminum intake. Regular Cutlass 307 V8 springs have the front of the car sitting at stock height. I have completely rebuilt stock suspension front and back. Monroe Sensatrac shocks. Great ride with a bit of initial heeling over on hard turns which is controlled by the better than 1" front and rear bars. I know I need stiffer springs all around but it also needs improved front end geometry.

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Old 10-19-2015, 04:15 PM
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Sirrotica Sirrotica is offline
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Copied and pasted from IHADAV8.Com:

The thread: http://www.ihadav8.com/forum/index.php?topic=3268.0

Quote:
For the upper control arm you can get the same basic one that Brian sells at G body, from speedway motors. You need 2 of these. The stock control arm is a little under 8.5" from the center of the shaft to the center of the ball joint so you either need to use a longer upper ball joint with stock lower which will give you a 1/2" taller set up and correct some of the camber curve issues that the G body has, or you can use a stock upper and a longer lower ball joint, or longer both top and bottom .

That last statement may sound a little confusing but you can do a lot of different combos with ball joints depending on how you want the car to sit. With the taller upper and stock lower it will sit at roughly stock height. With the taller ball joint in the lower it will sit either 1/2" lower or 1" lower depending on which ball joint you use. A longer ball joint changes the relation of the steering knuckle axis point and changes the way the tires move in relation to going around a curve. The taller spindle height will keep the tire on the outside of the curve from knuckling under (going positive camber) and help on the inside tire from going the other direction. It will keep the tire flatter on the ground in a corner. Prefered is no more than 1" difference in height from stock or it can really change things more than you want.

Upper tubular control arm part number 910-34394 R
1/2" longer upper ball joint part number 721101041. QA-1.
1/2" longer lower ball joint part number 721101091. QA-1.
1" longer lower ball joint part number 0011277100. Howe.

The G body chasis has bump steer built into it from the factory which means that as the tires hit something in the road and the tires move up and down the toe of the wheels change. This doesn't help handling and it also can create some tire wear issues if the tires are wider than stock. An easy way to correct this is a bump steer kit. What this does is replace the outer tie rod with an adjustable set up. You can get these from several different sources but I've found them for less than Hotchkiss and others have offer them. If you want to understand how this works do a search on youtube for bumpsteer and there are several vids that show the corrections and how they relate to this kit. Once again you can get these from speedway motors. The kit tie rods has both inner, outer, and a sleeve that uses lock nuts instead of clamps on the tie rods. You will need 2 of each.

Bump steer correction tie rod kit part number 910-32800, 18.5" long
Stud kit for bump stop correction kit part number 916-36055GM
Seals for outer tie rods available from speedway 910-01504

As far as a tubular lower, unless you are planing to do a lot of road racing it's not needed, but if you go this way you'll be happier with heim joint ends instead of poly bushings. If you want to save a little money and make it handle better then you can replace the lower control arm bushings with a greasable steel and teflon bushing. This will give you the advantages of a bushing that won't flex but move up and down much easier. Not a lot of bling factor but you don't have to put out a chunk of cash for something that's not needed. You will need 2 of each bushing for the lower arms since the front and rear bushing aren't the same. You can also get brand new arms without bushings or ball joints in them from speedway if you want something a little better looking.

Lower control arm buishings part numbers: Front-106-20069LW, rear-106-20076LW

If you plan on changing the rear bushings or arms you'll be much happier with a heim joint type rather than a stock type bushing. The rears have a design that binds them up since the rear sway bar is attached to the lower control arms. To fix this you can get a bushing housing that has a heim type joint in it so the control arms actually move rather than being held in the chasis by the center of the bushing. I suggest that you box the control arms before you replace the bushings. You can also change the IC of the car with an offset bushing in the axle. These bushings are offset 1/8" which will bring the IC down and rear ward which will give you better traction on the rear. These need to be installed in the car so that you get the position of the right because they're offset.

Replacement rear heim bushing part number 916-34048
Offset axle bushing part number 916-34047

As far as springs go I don't like progresive ones. The reason is because you can't really adjust the chasis for a spring that starts at one rate and then increases in rate as it's compressed. I also don't like the Ebach springs. They're a little to heavy for a V6 car. I do have some numbers that are moog parts that are close to the same rates of the DSE that Scott W (GNS Performance) is using on his car. (575 lbs/in Front and 125 lbs/in rear) For the front of the car a rate of 530 lbs per inch or 598 lbs per inch. The lighter spring will give you a smoother ride but the heavier ones will help the car go around the corners a little better. On the rears I don't increase the rate a whole lot because it's the front that has the most. The rates I chose are either 141 and 133 lbs per inch or 167 lbs per inch. The springs may not look like a stock spring but they will fit in the upper spring pocket the right way. I'll list them as pairs somewhat matched so it doesn't confuse you any. The part numbers are MOOG so you will get a quality spring. These springs will lower the car at least 1" overall from original stock height.

Lighter spring combo part numbers 5658 Front and 6377 or CC617 Rear
or
heavier spring combo part numbers 5660 Front and 5413 Rear.

The other option for the front spring is the 5608 (1" lower at 424 lbs/in) and will stiffen up the fronts some without giving a really harsh ride. The stock spring has a rate of 355 lbs/in and this will give you some options as to what you want to do with the car.
Last Edit: July 22 2015, 12:18:45 PM by Charlief1
Link to another thread on the subject: http://corner-carvers.com/forums/sho...ight=GM+G-body

These suggestions ought to give you a starting spot depending on how much better handling you want and what your budget dictates......................

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Last edited by Sirrotica; 10-19-2015 at 04:36 PM.
  #11  
Old 10-20-2015, 05:49 PM
android 211 android 211 is offline
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I knew someone out there would know exactly what to do. The car is already fun to drive, everywhere you go its just a tap pf the gas to get up to speed. Passing is a thrill. It has 2.73 gears so freeways are easy cruising. I just want to be able to throw it around a little.

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Old 10-21-2015, 05:37 PM
jerry455 jerry455 is offline
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The G body uses the same suspension as the 2wd S 10. That is why the 98-04 S10 2WD Blazer spindles and brake swap is so popular.

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