#21  
Old 09-12-2019, 11:15 AM
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unruhjonny unruhjonny is offline
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For a repair like that, what I do is use a crimp on connector, BUT, I remove the insulation from the crimp connector, and before crimping it in place, I slip a shrink tube onto one end of the wire (which ever has the longest distance from where the repair will be);
I crimp the wire back together, then use my soldering iron to heat up the crimp, and draw flux in;
I then slip the heat shrink tube over, and seal it up.

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1970 Formula 400
Carousel Red paint on Black standard interior
A no-engine, no-transmission, no-wheel option car.
Quite likely one of few '70 Muncie three speed Formula 400's left.


1991 Grand Am: 14.4 @ 93.7mph (DA corrected) (retired DD, stock appearing)
2009 Cobalt SS: 13.9 @ 103mph (current DD; makes something north of 300hp & 350ft/lbs)
  #22  
Old 09-12-2019, 12:07 PM
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HWYSTR455 HWYSTR455 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unruhjonny View Post
For a repair like that, what I do is use a crimp on connector, BUT, I remove the insulation from the crimp connector, and before crimping it in place, I slip a shrink tube onto one end of the wire (which ever has the longest distance from where the repair will be);
I crimp the wire back together, then use my soldering iron to heat up the crimp, and draw flux in;
I then slip the heat shrink tube over, and seal it up.
The solder will wick into the wire, watch that vid I posted.

.

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1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2
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1971 Trans Am 463, 315cfm E-head Sniper XFlow EFI, TKO600 extreme, 9", GW suspension, Baer brakes, pro tour car
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Theme Song: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zKAS...ature=youtu.be
  #23  
Old 09-12-2019, 12:21 PM
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unruhjonny unruhjonny is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HWYSTR455 View Post
The solder will wick into the wire, watch that vid I posted.

.
you posted what appeared to be many videos;
Some people swear by soldering alone, and I know from looking at vintage wire looms that often they were twisted and soldered together, but my advise was much like yours - to use a butt connector finished off with heat shrink tubing;
The only difference between our posts was that I added soldering - I see it as an extra precautionary step to ensuring a good connection.

Space constraints don't always permit soldering, but I prefer to combine soldering on a butt connection, then sealing with heat shrink tubing.

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1970 Formula 400
Carousel Red paint on Black standard interior
A no-engine, no-transmission, no-wheel option car.
Quite likely one of few '70 Muncie three speed Formula 400's left.


1991 Grand Am: 14.4 @ 93.7mph (DA corrected) (retired DD, stock appearing)
2009 Cobalt SS: 13.9 @ 103mph (current DD; makes something north of 300hp & 350ft/lbs)
  #24  
Old 09-12-2019, 12:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unruhjonny View Post
you posted what appeared to be many videos;
Some people swear by soldering alone, and I know from looking at vintage wire looms that often they were twisted and soldered together, but my advise was much like yours - to use a butt connector finished off with heat shrink tubing;
The only difference between our posts was that I added soldering - I see it as an extra precautionary step to ensuring a good connection.

Space constraints don't always permit soldering, but I prefer to combine soldering on a butt connection, then sealing with heat shrink tubing.
This vid:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=faLn-SjVfwY

.

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1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2
http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=760624
1971 Trans Am 463, 315cfm E-head Sniper XFlow EFI, TKO600 extreme, 9", GW suspension, Baer brakes, pro tour car
https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...ght=procharger
Theme Song: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zKAS...ature=youtu.be
  #25  
Old 09-12-2019, 02:51 PM
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unruhjonny unruhjonny is offline
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well part of that video definitely came off as a little bit of commercial for Holley;
I understand the jist, but not everyone can afford to buy fancy crimpers;
That being said, the biggest contradiction between your video and my advice was that I do both.

My crimpers do not fuse the wires together inside the connector - I question how you would have to crimp wires such that they look like his example cross section...

I will still do both because it's my belief that the best quality job I can do with the tools I have, is the only one way worth doing.


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1970 Formula 400
Carousel Red paint on Black standard interior
A no-engine, no-transmission, no-wheel option car.
Quite likely one of few '70 Muncie three speed Formula 400's left.


1991 Grand Am: 14.4 @ 93.7mph (DA corrected) (retired DD, stock appearing)
2009 Cobalt SS: 13.9 @ 103mph (current DD; makes something north of 300hp & 350ft/lbs)
  #26  
Old 09-12-2019, 03:28 PM
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HWYSTR455 HWYSTR455 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unruhjonny View Post
well part of that video definitely came off as a little bit of commercial for Holley;
I understand the jist, but not everyone can afford to buy fancy crimpers;
That being said, the biggest contradiction between your video and my advice was that I do both.

My crimpers do not fuse the wires together inside the connector - I question how you would have to crimp wires such that they look like his example cross section...

I will still do both because it's my belief that the best quality job I can do with the tools I have, is the only one way worth doing.

With this $25 Klein 1006 crimp tool (not fancy or expensive):

https://www.amazon.com/Non-Insulated.../dp/B00776SJJO

It makes that cross section as he pointed out.

Use uninsulated nickel coated barrel connectors, and shrink tube it. There's no need to solder it, it won't pull apart, and is easier to make a quality splice.

By soldering it, it can wick up the wire and compromised the strength of the splice. He even showed an example of that.

My point, and his, is that you can get a quality splice with little effort. Don't solder after that, not only will it not wick into the barrel connector because it's fused, it will wick up the wire.

EDIT: None of the items, except the one crimper, is a Holley item, so it's not an info-mercial. That crimper is specifically for ECU pins.

.

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1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2
http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=760624
1971 Trans Am 463, 315cfm E-head Sniper XFlow EFI, TKO600 extreme, 9", GW suspension, Baer brakes, pro tour car
https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...ght=procharger
Theme Song: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zKAS...ature=youtu.be
  #27  
Old 09-12-2019, 06:22 PM
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racerboy racerboy is offline
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ok thanks. I was just trying to figure out what the gauge of the thick red wire and the smaller purple wire in the event i did want to purchase some new wire

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  #28  
Old 09-12-2019, 06:39 PM
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Oe i think was 14 and 16, hei may have been 12, but aftermarket repop harnesses usually use 12 and 14.

HEI does draw more. I will dig deeper tomorrow, not going to be home tonight.



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1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2
http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=760624
1971 Trans Am 463, 315cfm E-head Sniper XFlow EFI, TKO600 extreme, 9", GW suspension, Baer brakes, pro tour car
https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...ght=procharger
Theme Song: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zKAS...ature=youtu.be
  #29  
Old 09-12-2019, 07:32 PM
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Held for Ransom Held for Ransom is offline
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Purple - 14 AWG.
Red - 10 AWG.

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  #30  
Old 09-13-2019, 08:53 AM
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Excellent, thank you HFR!


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1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2
http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=760624
1971 Trans Am 463, 315cfm E-head Sniper XFlow EFI, TKO600 extreme, 9", GW suspension, Baer brakes, pro tour car
https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...ght=procharger
Theme Song: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zKAS...ature=youtu.be
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