#41  
Old 10-07-2019, 07:01 PM
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Rebuilt TH350 unit will work perfect. Around 1800 stall and drives like a stocker..because it is.... Actually the stall would probably be around 1600-1800. We would usually see 1800-2000 behind a 455.

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Last edited by PAUL K; 10-07-2019 at 07:17 PM.
  #42  
Old 10-07-2019, 09:50 PM
Steve C. Steve C. is offline
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Torque Converter 12″ 2500 Stall BPO


"These advertised ratings are not indicative of the actual stall characteristics of a torque converter."

"A torque converter will provide a range of stall speeds based on the amount of load that is placed on the torque converter."

More: http://www.hughesperformance.com/tc-stall/

And as noted by Paul's info above.


.

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  #43  
Old 10-08-2019, 11:30 AM
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Talked to Hughes ... they actually recommended the GM4 Tow Master. Said on my engine/cam/rear combination it would give me more than stock stall, less than 2000.

Considering my original has a bit of roughness on the snout from rust, has a pad missing a couple of threads, and is full of garbage ... I think a new one is the way to go. So I have one on the way.

I like that this is a 13" unit, so most probably using an original core.

For those of you with piles of original 13" converters ... price for cores seems to be going up ... don't throw them out. (Hughes does not charge for cores BTW)

Thanks much for all the advice and comments.

  #44  
Old 10-09-2019, 04:28 PM
65sport 65sport is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dataway View Post
Down to the final stretch where I have to decide to use the original 68 TC or get something else.

Is there a source for quality rebuilt, bone stock 13" converters? At this point I'd rather purchase one than send the old one out for a rebuild.

The market for OEM quality stock converters seems pretty slim.

Original has 100,000 miles and is potentially contaminated with organic debri. Has one mounting hole missing a couple of threads (not fatally so). Inside looks good, no water, no rust.

Not really looking for a $100 Ebay rebuild ... looking for something of reasonable quality from a reputable source, but bone stock stall speed and performance.
FWIW
Regardless if you replace the TC or not, BEFORE you install the trans and at the trans end of the cooler pipes, blow air through the upper pipe using a rubber hose to drain out the lower pipe into a pan. Be careful, it can be messy maybe put a tube sock on the lower pipe or shop rag. Move the rubber hose to the upper pipe using a funnel, pour cleaning solvent into the system until it comes out the lower pipe, move the rubber hose back to the bottom pipe and again carefully blow it out. Inspect drainage for debris, if it's clean you are good but if not repeat until clear. Now the cooler and lines are clear.

If you decide to use the original converter and upon installing the trans, do the cooling pipes LAST then attach the lower cooler pipe. With the upper return pipe still off, attach a rubber hose to it aimed into a drain pan. Fill the trans with about 5 quarts of oil, run the engine and pump fluid into the drain pan until it sputters with air, shut it down. If the fluid is not running clear yet, add 4 more quarts and repeat as necessary. Replace the pipe, and fill the trans as you normally would after a service.

If you are really worried about the debris, you can temporarily splice one of these into a cooler line. https://www.magnefinefilters.com/Mag...8aAm9-EALw_wcB

  #45  
Old 10-10-2019, 09:08 AM
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Excellent advice ... but in my situation ... new TC, new lines, freshly recored radiator and freshly rebuilt transmission.

I'll probably still pull a trans cooling line and flush some fluid through after it's first hour or so of running, and at least drain the pan ... if not pull it and change the filter .... don't need any rag lint floating around in there.

  #46  
Old 10-10-2019, 03:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dataway View Post
Excellent advice ... but in my situation ... new TC, new lines, freshly recored radiator and freshly rebuilt transmission.

I'll probably still pull a trans cooling line and flush some fluid through after it's first hour or so of running, and at least drain the pan ... if not pull it and change the filter .... don't need any rag lint floating around in there.
I think they tank the entire radiator before they core it, if so then the cooler probably got the debris loosened up. I'd blow it out both ways and if you get anything out, flush it with solvent. Sounds like you have rounded 3rd base and headed for home plate ! Hope the trans works out !

Enjoy !

  #47  
Old 10-11-2019, 02:29 AM
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I'm crawling to third base at the moment.

I told my wife ... if I was 17 years old again I'd have this car on the road in two weeks, in primer, running like crap, probably dangerous to drive ... but I'd be driving it

  #48  
Old 10-11-2019, 03:16 AM
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Quote:
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I'm crawling to third base at the moment.

I told my wife ... if I was 17 years old again I'd have this car on the road in two weeks, in primer, running like crap, probably dangerous to drive ... but I'd be driving it
IKR? I turn 63 in two days. My projects take a lot longer now, but much safer now. I was 17 when I got my first car 65 Lemans sport. Had a 326 HO 3 speed 3.55 posi but I had to put a 389 in it out of a 66 GP. Single master cylinder on 4 drum brakes. I don't think any of us knew we had crap for brakes back then, it just seemed normal.

  #49  
Old 10-15-2019, 03:56 PM
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My first was a 66 Tempest, 326 2bbl, 2 speed auto, no power steering, no power brakes, no power anything, no performance anything but it was a 2 door.

Got the Hughes converter today .... work will commence shortly ... way better than worrying about the old one.

  #50  
Old 10-15-2019, 06:15 PM
65sport 65sport is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dataway View Post
My first was a 66 Tempest, 326 2bbl, 2 speed auto, no power steering, no power brakes, no power anything, no performance anything but it was a 2 door.

Got the Hughes converter today .... work will commence shortly ... way better than worrying about the old one.
My current 65 Lemans was a 326 2 bbl 2 speed automatic single exhaust, previous owner had put dual ex and 4 bbl. 2.93:1 axle, extremely gutless. Could not figure out why, tried everything tuneup wise and compression averaged close to 140 psi.

Bought some RA ex manifolds and Pypes pipes. Turns out the heat crossover butterfly was frozen SHUT. All the exhaust from the L bank was going through the intake heat crossover and all going out the R pipe.

  #51  
Old 10-15-2019, 07:21 PM
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Surprised it didn't melt the carb.

I'm a huge fan of the 326. They will run forever in stock form. I got mine hand me down from Father/Mother/Brother ... with about 90,000 miles on it I swear the oil would come out as clean as it went in ... spent it's whole life getting 3,000 mile changes with Vavoline.

Unfortunately I crashed it into a light pole about a month after I had it painted. I was 16 I think.

  #52  
Old 10-15-2019, 07:36 PM
Schurkey Schurkey is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ponyakr View Post
" Their catalog states need to specify Chevy or Buick/Pontiac/Oldsmobile before ordering."

I have to question what possible difference could it make whether a converter was gonna be used in a Chevy or BOP ???

I understand needing cubic inch, cam, torque/hp/rpm range specs, & intended usage info. But, how could a converter tell the difference in a particular BRAND of trans or engine ?
Chevy used a "bolt and nut" (three of each) to hold the converter to the flexplate. The raised bracket welded to the converter is fairly large. Bolt goes thru flywheel, thru bracket, gets secured on back side of bracket with the nut.

The big brackets can interfere with the "Detroit Balance" weight on a BOP flywheel. Converters for BOP have a smaller, welded-on tab that's drilled and tapped--no nut needed. Clears the balance weight welded to the flywheel.

I've always assumed you could use a BOP-style converter on a Chevy, but maybe not the other way around--depending on the position of the flywheel balance weight. I like the BOP system better. Seems to me that the newer converters (Chevy TH700R-4, for example) are the BOP style, but threaded for metric bolts.


Last edited by Schurkey; 10-15-2019 at 07:44 PM.
  #53  
Old 10-15-2019, 09:00 PM
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Some Chevy's were threaded as well. I have an original 69 Chevy L88 converter here that's been on one Pontiac and is now on another, with factory threaded lugs, one Pontiac previously with an aftermarket flexplate and now used on a factory Pontiac flex plate.

The L88's also have 6 lugs to bolt to the flexplate rather than 3 lugs. Don't have to use the 6, but the option is there. Chevrolet also continued with this converter in all of the solid lifter engines when automatic was specified from 69-72

  #54  
Old 10-15-2019, 09:21 PM
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I have a chevy converter from sbc a 1/2 ton pickup behind and Olds 455 using a turbo 400. If I remember right we used a flywheel off of a 5.7 diesel. Some of those had dual pattern transmissions and were drilled for a small tq converter. The pickup converter stalls to 2200 but that Olds has a lot of tq. If I recall this right the chevy t350chevy converter does not engage into the front pump as far. If you had the right flywheel on a Pontiac it would probably work. Might be a crap shoot finding a flywheel that misses the weights like mentioned above.

  #55  
Old 10-15-2019, 09:48 PM
65sport 65sport is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dataway View Post
Surprised it didn't melt the carb.

I'm a huge fan of the 326. They will run forever in stock form. I got mine hand me down from Father/Mother/Brother ... with about 90,000 miles on it I swear the oil would come out as clean as it went in ... spent it's whole life getting 3,000 mile changes with Vavoline.

Unfortunately I crashed it into a light pole about a month after I had it painted. I was 16 I think.
Never drove very far that way, as slow as a 6 cyl with that 2 speed. Put in a T350, RA manifolds, in process complete suspension upgrade tube a-arms, 9 inch, boxed lower and adjustable upper trailing arms. Engine noise sounds like dry rocker arm, a 64' so rockers lube through rocker studs likely plugged if that's it all I will replace that one rocker arm with one from a 66 with the lube hole in the pushrod hole. If the cam shows less than .271 lobe lift I'll install a new 067.

After I'm done playing with the 326 I'll put in the 455 I recently obtained.

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