[HWYSTR455]

I suspect it would be easier to repair what you have than to fit an aftermarket panel. Makes total sense to assess it well before you decide which way to go.


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[A Schab]

I think that the only repo panel offered for that is made for a Chevelle.

[scott70]

Picture request

[scott70]

No too bad in there. Some rust in the back. Windshield repair using the 80.00 lower windshield repair panel. Cut it up only using what we needed. Maybe not ideal fix but it will work I believe.

[scott70]

While the windshield and rear window are out and some mice decided to chew some holes through my original headliner, I figured this would be a good time if any to replace the headliner. I'm not going to do it myself I'm having a upholstery guy do it. I was looking at the headliners that ames offers that are made by REM and also inquired a about legendaries. Legendary is like $180 including the sail panels and REM it's like $90 including the sail panels. I saw a sample of legendaries buckskin perforated premiere which looks like my original. I've got samples coming from Ames which are REM. Has anybody used REM headliners and thought they were good quality? If you look at my original headliner you can see the holes aren't perfectly punched like legendaries. I haven't got the samples yet but it looks like REM s actually looks like the original a little more.The upholstery guy gets good money to put in a headliner and I just don't want to skimp out on quality of the headliner. . Other is legendary buckskin sample next to a saddle vinyl sample. The holes are clean cut compared to original but definitely not a deal breaker. Just don't want REM being a thin, cheaper material.
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[Hammertime Mike]

I just had a head liner from AMES installed in the 68 that I'm working on. I'm happy the results and looks correct to me.

[HWYSTR455]

I also have one from Ames, think it's an REM, fit was fine, and looks original. (But I used a 71 app headliner).

I screwed mine up and ended up short in a rear corner, gave up on finishing it. (was my mistake). I plan on having someone do another for me, those things are frustrating to me, and just don't have the patience for it!

Think I have a pic on my build thread.

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[scott70]

Slowly getting there....the guy is working on it in his spare time. Hope to have the bc/cc mint turquoise on it sometime in November..... maybe. Should be all done for next summer. Still alot of work to do after it's painted.

[HWYSTR455]

Yes, assembly/trim out takes time. But once you have it back it will light a fire in you, and you will be surprised how quickly it goes together.

I suggest providing the wheel opening molding and window reveal molding to the body guy before it's painted so the contours can be adjusted if required.

I suggest providing the inner front wheel wells as well. Oh, headlight buckets too.

Grills wouldn't hurt. Maybe tail light housing.

I bought new door lock mechs and tried to install after paint. I'm ok with them not being painted as the factory did, but R&R of the screws slightly distorted the area, and in my case, that paint might crack/flake. I will just have to watch it.

You may have to sand the drip rails to get the edge trim/molding installed, due to paint build up. If you want, that too you can provide the body guy and have him do it. I tried to remove as little as possible, and my drip rail molding is not as nice as I would like, may redo it.

You might want to provide the rocker molding, so the straightness of the rocker/front fender can be adjusted. My fenders bow out slightly as it gets to the wheel opening, and the rocker molding shows a mild gap at the rocker/fender point.

I had my body guy do the rear hood edge molding, I didn't want to deal with that.

Provide the door and trunk seals and all the bumpers, so gaps can be adjusted maybe. They will be slightly raised until they all take a 'set', so if the body guy is aware of that, it might seem slightly off when you pick it up, but don't worry, use, and a couple heat cycles, and it will be good.

A little brain dump there, hope some of it helps.


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[HWYSTR455]

Maybe the windshield base molding too, make sure it sits flat. My area there was good, and only needed a slight clean up of surface rust, so I didn't have a problem. But if there was considerable work, it might need a little hammering.



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[scott70]

I had all the original window stainless polished so it looks alot better. He did use the rear window trim as a guideline when he installed the rear1/4's.We did talk about the possible build up of paint on the drip rail where the stainless goes. I did buy all new weather strip so yes probably will be tight for a while. Luckily he lives 3 houses down from me...I keep all the misc stuff in my garage so as to not clog up his place. He got the gaps pretty good,,,the fender to door gaps were way off before. We put in all new body mounts before doing anything. Pulled the motor and transmission and freshened them. So after it's painted, the engine goes back in and a cut and buff. Put all the glass back in, new carpet,moldings,seats,etc. Install call-outs and the 69 judge stripes. New mufflers also as one has a rust hole. It's not going to be perfect,but pretty nice Im hoping/ thinking. So doing this all in spare time it takes awhile. In December he'll had it a year already. I really don't want it to leave his garage until it's completely done. He's got some other projects that need to be done so my car will be put on hold after it's painted.Getting new headliner and rear package tray professionally installed in 2 weeks. Upholstery guy preferred not to have it painted when he does his work.

[HWYSTR455]

Yeah, sounds like you've got it under control! Keep posting picks, I know I'm anxious to see color on it!

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[scott70]

Repainted the metal part of the dash and the metal strip by the back window with correct dark saddle 0 gloss that has the slight texture from the factory. Then did the vinyl dash with dark saddle low gloss... pretty good color match to the factory. Had it mixed in cans from kolor korrect business. Headed to upholstery shop Saturday for new headliner,sail panels and rear package tray. Headliner is saddle and rear package tray dark saddle. Dash is pretty good shape but not perfect,, wanted to try to blend in the top where it turned like a dark gray in spots from the sun. Maybe some day pull the dash and have it redone. I'm already redoing a bunch of stuff I wasn't planning on but just made sense to do it now while stuff is apart.

[HWYSTR455]

Wow, that looks great! You say that's Dark Saddle? I like the color.

You're making me rethink the interior color in my 'bird, I really like the camel tan of the later years, but always had issues with matching and touching up. I was just going to go black and replace everything so I didn't have to dye, but like I said, rethinking that now!


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[HWYSTR455]

So you used dye on the vinyl, what did you use on the metal areas?


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[scott70]

If I was ordering or buying a 70 GTO in 1970 I would probably go with black as my 1 St choice but looking at the other interior colors available,,,the saddle color would be my 2 ND choice. From the factory mine is saddle interior with different parts being dark saddle like the dash and kickboards..gives it some good contrast. Kolor korrect is the only place I've found factory matching formulas that actually match. In 70 the metal part of a dash on the GTOs actually had a tiny bit of texture to it and kolor korrect actually puts that in their spray cans so it gives a correct finish. It's expensive but if you want the correct look it works. Car has dark saddle carpet and also on bottom of door panels. The door panel,seats and headliner themselves are saddle. Code 255 car. The picture of the tag was hooked to the interior and those color stripes were on the back showing primary saddle with secondary dark saddle. I already have a replacement dark saddle carpet from legendary that will go in after the cars painted

[HWYSTR455]

I understand that the 2 shades used in the interior is correct, but my ocd would eat me up on that one! Heheh!

If I were to order a car new at a dealer back in 70, not sure what color interior I would pic. Probably blue. My whole reason for wanting to go to black in the 'bird is because of matching the interior colors and not having to spray them. Red interiors look good too. Shoot, even the green interior looks good, but for me, it would have to be a green exterior.

Yeah, what I was asking is if the TYPE of paint used on the steel parts is different than the type used on the plastic panels. I believe the factory used lacquer on steel parts. I in the past have used the dye on some steel parts and had success, but not sure what I used on the pillars years ago. When I shot it with enamel, it flaked in a couple spots, so now I have to strip them.

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[scott70]

From what it says on the front it looks like a universal paint. So I don't know exactly what type of paint it is. Gets cleaned and then bulldog adhesion promoter on vinyl and plastic.

[scott70]

Not really body related as he's hoping to get to paint on it by the end of November but I've been playing with some interior parts. I'm redoing the two door panels and the two back seat side panels from the chrome strip up because the sun had bleached it gray on top. I can't believe how close it matches to the original panel color. This is the first panel I've done so far and from the chrome strip up I'd say he's a pretty good match. I still got to clean from the chrome strip down. This is kolor korrects medium saddle for vinyl.

[694.1]

Excellent thoughts, Deep Purple fan.
And Santa is going to be SO good to Scott!