[racerboy]

on how to get wheel on straight to match straight wheels


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[242177P]

To center the wheel you use the tie rod adjustment sleeves. As long as you match the number of turns on opposite side you won't disturb the toe-in setting. As you shorten one, you must lengthen the other.

[racerboy]

Before I do that, should I confirm that it is equal turns to lock for both sides. I read that somewhere


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[OG68]

The little line on the end of the steering shaft should be at 12 o'clock with the wheels in the straight ahead position. Thats how you line up your steering wheel. If its not centered then follow the procedure mentioned above.

What is the little wheel thing with the push button?

The little 'button' is the steering wheel lock activated by the ignition key. The wheel is the cam with multiple openings for 'button' to lock the steering wheel no matter what angle the wheel is at.

[racerboy]

Thanks! That makes sense. If you look at where the steering wheel was when the wheels were straight it corresponds with where the little notch is in the steering shaft.





I guess when I put the steering coupler on, I let the wheel rotate.

I ordered a new cancel cam (that’s what I snapped) as well as the tool to remove the ‘wheel’ that covers it.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[racerboy]

I thought I’d tackle the steering box again today. I saw a YouTube video that said when you install the rag joint on the box, while it is on the bench, you should count the # of turns to the right and then to the left and then turn the input shaft 1/2 the turns to center it. There should be a couple of large lines on the pitman arm shaft the line up front to back and side to side. I never did this. I just sort of out the box in and attached it. Should I remove it and start all over?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[racerboy]

Couple more questions:
Can this be done with box in car if I disconnect the pitman arm?

Would i have to pull column out a bit to do this?

Is it easier to remove the column than the steering box?

Can I leave steering pump in car (obviously have to detach hoses)?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[OG68]

The first thing is to center the steering wheel; if the pitman arm is centered directly to the rear, the tie rods need adjustment. If not try the following.

You can perform all the checks with every thing connected but I disconnected the pitman arm from the linkage.
As mentioned before cycle the steering wheel end to end and count the revolutions. Divide by half and move the steering wheel from the end of its travel to the that exact halfway position.
If the wheel is still not centered and the pitman arm is pointing directly to the rear, I'd say the rag joint (coupler) is offset from the steering box shaft. The direction of the tires do not matter at this point.
To correct the rag joint it's probably easier to either remove the steering gear with rag joint and pitman arm from the car and align it on the bench or just lower it enough to gain working room with the hoses still attached. Upon reinstallation, align the steering wheel straight and lock into place by removing the key. Center the gearbox and install. It should line up with the steering shaft.
Once you have the steering wheel aligned correctly and the pitman arm pointing to the rear you can then adjust the tie rods to center the tires. Professional alignment is recommended.

The main points to remember are;
Steering gear centered
Steering shaft centered (alignment notch at 12 o'clock)
Pitman arm directly to the rear. The pitman arm is splined to go on the output shaft every 90*.
Everything else is adjustable.

However, if you have done all the above and the rag joint and pitman arm are installed correctly but are still misaligned, the gearbox itself may be assembled incorrectly. Rare, but not unheard of. Good luck.

[racerboy]

I think I am good as far as the steering wheel being centered, the rag joint in right position with the spline bolt at 12:00 and the pitman arm pointing straight back. Wheels are not straight but I will be taking it to a shop for alignment.

Before I do that I have a couple more questions. I think the steering shaft rubs against the heat shield that covers the Ram Air exhaust manifold. I think it only rubs on the ‘D’ side of the shaft rotates towards the shield. Not sure if it is visible in these pictures:






Also, how tight do you make the bolts that hold the steering coupler? I read on a Chevelle website that they should be torqued to 18 lb-ft, but when I try to get there, it really crushes the rubber and my torque wrench doesn’t ‘click’.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[racerboy]

So I got everything sorted out with the steering. Car is aligned and everything works like it should with power steering. Definitely a worthwhile change for me. . Why I waited 10 years...

Now I’d like to change the steering wheel. While looking through some spare parts I’ve had for some time, I found a Formula wheel that I bought to replace on my 1970 T/A. While I always thought I’d change over to a wood/Sport wheel, I was wondering if since I already had the formula wheel, maybe try that. I’d have to spend about $160 for the rest of the components (all I have is the wheel) whereas if I go the Sport wheel route, I’m looking at $430 for everything (using Ames pricing).

Thoughts?

Here is the wheel I found in my basement:



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[OG68]

Formula Wheel.

[racerboy]

Yeah. I think I am going to go the Formula wheel route.

Will I need to get a new alignment if I change the steering wheel?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[racerboy]

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[racerboy]

Any idea how to get this snap ring back in place? None of my snap ring pliers are small enough. Very frustrating. I was able to use a pick to remove it, thinking I might be able to get it back on same way but that didn’t work.

I posted the pick of my new one with my finger just to show how narrow the split is.

I tried using the newer snap ring that has the two little holes, but that didn’t let the lock plate slide far enough forward and there was a gap between the column and the formula wheel base.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[racerboy]

I figured out how to get snap ring on place. But when I put the formula wheel base on it doesn’t slide all the way down. Even when I torque the nut to 30 lb.







When I put it on earlier (without snap ring in place) I did seem to go on correctly. Does that make any sense?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[racerboy]

I finished putting the wheel on. I had to file away at the repo cancel cam (green) in order to make it sit right under the lock plate. There is still a gap, but it is better. I also had to tap the steering clasp I could mount the wheel. I’m guessing it was tapped for SAE bolts, but AMES included M5x8.0 bolts, so i just tapped it.






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[mrgto69]

Hey racerboy, you sent me a PM and I could not reply because it said your PM folder iS full and can not accept any more... Clear it out and I can reply. SORRY TO IMPOSE...!

[racerboy]

Should be clean now! Thanks for letting me know.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk