#21  
Old 09-15-2020, 02:19 PM
tekuhn tekuhn is offline
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Originally Posted by Bill Hanlon View Post
Any reason you couldn't get one 3D printed?
Interesting idea. My son is a CAD expert and also has a 3D printer. He has used a carbon fiber filament that might be strong enough. I think the issue might be whether it could be produced with enough precision. Thanks for the idea.

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'65 Lemans Project (469, High Ports, TKO600, 12-bolt) Chassis Photos
  #22  
Old 09-15-2020, 02:21 PM
Chiefkey Chiefkey is offline
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These plastic parts are apparently made of nylon plastic, which is normally injection molded. My son is big into 3-d printing and explained 3-d printing nylon is very difficult and requires expensive printers that can shield the part being made in an airless environment. I had no idea there were so many types of plastic mediums. We're trying to replicate a wiring strap for "sanduner" that's made from nylon...and are trying different types of plastic. Just my take on the problem.
JK

  #23  
Old 09-15-2020, 02:25 PM
tekuhn tekuhn is offline
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Originally Posted by mechanickeith View Post
Keep an eye out for a factory shop service manual & parts book. Look at the dash trim tag on the firewall for the paint code,, Then go here https://www.autocolorlibrary.com/pag...HorizontalTab1 & search for the paint code color. You can also order a full build sheet set with all the info from Pontiac historic services. This will give you all options on the car, where it was built & the dealer it was shipped to, etc, etc.
I have the service manual, but need the parts book it sounds like. Original color - White!

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  #24  
Old 09-15-2020, 07:12 PM
tekuhn tekuhn is offline
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Can someone please confirm that on a '63 Tempest, the lower taillights are running/parking lights only, and the uppers are parking and stop/turn? I have a few electrical issues to sort out, and turn signal/brake lights is one of them.

Thank you.

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  #25  
Old 09-17-2020, 01:29 AM
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Nevermind - I answered my own question when I actually pulled the lenses off and see the different size sockets and holes in the mounts.

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  #26  
Old 09-17-2020, 11:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Hanlon View Post
Any reason you couldn't get one 3D printed?
I'm getting one done right now. Testing in progress. Hope to share soon in the Ropeshaft Reader.
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  #27  
Old 09-18-2020, 12:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Sanduners View Post
I'm getting one done right now. Testing in progress. Hope to share soon in the Ropeshaft Reader.
Cool! I should be receiving the part I ordered within a day or two as well.

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  #28  
Old Yesterday, 03:36 PM
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This looks encouraging! This part shows to fit a '63-'66 AMC Ambassador. It's a Sorensen part TP-111. There are others for Mopar and Ford that appear the same too. I hope to install tonight and test it.

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  #29  
Old Yesterday, 03:40 PM
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Does the 37 amp alternator used on the 195 have a larger pulley than normal? Mine is larger than any V8 application I have seen. I have a bad flicker in my lights at idle, which does smooth out some when the RPM increases. I'm rebuilding the alternator now - it had a noisy bearing anyway, but I might try a smaller pulley too to increase the RPM.

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  #30  
Old Yesterday, 04:20 PM
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There's in inherent defect in the electrical system on those '63 Tempests and Lemans in regards to charging the battery.. With the stock alternator and the metal can Delco voltage regulator. The Amp gauge in the dash is a full flow amp gauge; one wire on the backside of that gauge is yellow and the other one is red.

One wire goes to the "+" terminal at the starter solenoid which is wired via a cable directly to the battery and the other wire is bolted to the output lug at the back of the alternator. The connectors to that gauge are simply push-on tabs which don't actually transmit full current. Also those tabs are way too tiny in regards to the current flow at that location. When charging a run down battery or driving at night those tabs get pretty hot and will actually melt the plastic connector and then those 2 wires will melt.

The push-on plug at that location I am sure was done for ease of assembly. Considering that all of the voltage that the entire car uses runs thru those 2 attachment points they should have been a pair of bolt on #10-24 lug connections instead of push-on. When driving at night all of the current that the headlamps are trying to pull is running thru those 2 push-on amp gauge connectors. On cars with 100,000 miles on them I have seen those brass tabs burned to the point where the amp gauge is ruined. There is a thin black cardboard insulator underneath both of those tabs; that cardboard deteriorates over time, and results in a direct short from the "+" terminal of the car's battery to ground. (That is what melts the red and yellow wires.) Those 2 tabs are wired to be 12 volts "live" constant; even if the car is just sitting, parked.

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Last edited by Peter Serio; Yesterday at 04:36 PM.
  #31  
Old Yesterday, 05:57 PM
tekuhn tekuhn is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter Serio View Post
There's in inherent defect in the electrical system on those '63 Tempests and Lemans in regards to charging the battery.. With the stock alternator and the metal can Delco voltage regulator. The Amp gauge in the dash is a full flow amp gauge; one wire on the backside of that gauge is yellow and the other one is red.

One wire goes to the "+" terminal at the starter solenoid which is wired via a cable directly to the battery and the other wire is bolted to the output lug at the back of the alternator. The connectors to that gauge are simply push-on tabs which don't actually transmit full current. Also those tabs are way too tiny in regards to the current flow at that location. When charging a run down battery or driving at night those tabs get pretty hot and will actually melt the plastic connector and then those 2 wires will melt.

The push-on plug at that location I am sure was done for ease of assembly. Considering that all of the voltage that the entire car uses runs thru those 2 attachment points they should have been a pair of bolt on #10-24 lug connections instead of push-on. When driving at night all of the current that the headlamps are trying to pull is running thru those 2 push-on amp gauge connectors. On cars with 100,000 miles on them I have seen those brass tabs burned to the point where the amp gauge is ruined. There is a thin black cardboard insulator underneath both of those tabs; that cardboard deteriorates over time, and results in a direct short from the "+" terminal of the car's battery to ground. (That is what melts the red and yellow wires.) Those 2 tabs are wired to be 12 volts "live" constant; even if the car is just sitting, parked.
Thanks, I'll be sure to check mine out and possibly modify things a bit. I was surprised to see an ammeter actually. The gauges look very similar to my '65 GTO did (I assume '64's too). Might look into changing that over to a voltmeter. Might not be too difficult to retrofit a '64-'65 gauge in it.

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