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#1
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Heater core replacement 67 GTO
I'm about to attempt to replace the heater core. Any advice is welcome.
Shop manual says remove glove box and disconnect control cables. Remove six nuts from heater assembly. Also says may not be able to access one of the nuts without cutting a hole in fender skirt... but someone mention before that shouldn't be necessary. Anyone with experience of this remove/replace please offer help. Reason for change is previous owner capped off core so I suspect it leaks. I asked him and he said "no" but he lied about other things so I don't trust him. |
#2
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Quote:
Good Luck. Mike Pearson
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Fort Worth/Dallas TX area 1966 GTO Fontaine Blue 389 CID Carter AFB Muncie 4 speed (orginally an automatic car) |
#3
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More info
Okay, upon further inspection, it seems nearly impossible to access two of the nuts without removing the fender skirt.
Is it difficult to remove fender skirt after wheel is removed? Secondly, inspecting from the inside, it appears from these photos, there was a leaking issue before the system was bypassed. (There is rust on the nipple and the carpet.) What is the purpose of the nipple piece on the bottom of the heater box? |
#4
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Seems to me the 'nipple' serves as a pivot for a door inside the box, but it's been a long time since I worked on my '66 box
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#5
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I think that I removed the nuts on the inner fender and rotated the fender to access the nuts. That was 9 years ago so I might be a little fuzzy on that.
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#6
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I also unbolted the fender liner and dropped it out of the way to replace the heater core in my car. And, while I had it out of the way I replaced the blower motor. My car is A/C equipped
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Remember no one is perfect. Everyone's butt has a crack in it! |
#7
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heater control cable
I decided not to tackle this myself. The shop did it recently and drilled a hole in the fender skirt to access the difficult-to-reach nut. When I asked "how did you know where to drill?"...he said there was a 'dimple' in the skirt that clued him to the drill location.
Back together and have heat now! But a small issue I wanted to ask about... I can move the temp selector to the 'off' position and it feels like it moves in a detent at the end of travel. However, on the other side (warmer), it doesn't travel all the way (shown in picture). Should it travel to the stop or not necessarily? Does it look like the cable is connected properly? |
#8
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According to my service manual you should have a slight amount of "spring back" at the end of the levers travel, "not to exceed 1/8 of an inch". You can adjust that by turning that knurled plastic "turnbuckle" just to the left of the cable mounting bolt.
Edit: If that is the original 50 year old cable that's never been adjusted the turnbuckle may not want to move. Be careful to avoid breaking anything.
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"I fishtail through the lanes, and I make my tires squeal. Power at my feet, and glory at the wheel. I wind the windows down, let the wind blow through my hair. God knows where I'm goin' to, but me... I don't care." Last edited by richardk; 11-24-2019 at 12:47 PM. |
#9
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heater nuts.
The speed nuts can be accessed but be prepared to spend up to 1/2 hrs per nut. Small hands and small 3/8 wrench or ignition wrench will work. I did mine on my Gto and it's a PITA. I Remember doing the same on my 64 Buick Wildcat when I was a kid. Small ratcheting wrench may make it easier.
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#10
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Quote:
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#11
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Quote:
PS- look for a mild kink in those heater control cables, it doesn't take very much to restrict travel |
#12
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My heater controls were broken and I had to remove the unit to diagnosis and fix it. It isn't that hard, but I removed both front seats and placed a foam matt down so I could comfortably lay on my back and work from both the passenger seat and driver's seat without issues. I also had magnetic flashlights set up and a headlamp.
I have a real small mini ratchet which was helpful. The speed nuts weren't too bad. Don't forget the light bulb in there. You might as well change it too. I remember that I bought new cables for the hell of it, but ended up only using 2 of 3. There was some issue with how the repop cables fasten and work with the control unit that I didn't like. Once you remove the control unit, you can see how it all works and it is pretty easy to figure out what's going on. The cables are adjustable and you can make sure your travel distance is good. I remember that it is important to note where the cables route.
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1965 Pontiac GTO 455/469 w/ #48 Heads, '65 Tri-Power 9.25:1 CR Stump Puller Cam Muncie M22W 1st-2.56 2nd-1.75 3rd-1.37 4th-1.00 3.55 Rear Differential Front: 225/60R15 Height: 25.6" Rear: 275/60R15 Height: 28" |
#13
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Just curious. What’s the best heater core to buy when it does fail ?
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#14
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Quote:
That same thread had at least one more endorsement for the Murray heater core.
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Fort Worth/Dallas TX area 1966 GTO Fontaine Blue 389 CID Carter AFB Muncie 4 speed (orginally an automatic car) |
#15
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Ok your link doesn’t work but your saying a Murray heater core from orielys
Thanks |
#16
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Sorry, that link was copied from a 2013 thread so O'Reilly's part number may have changed, but yes, both posts in that thread (and I'm thinking in another one that I cannot find) spoke highly of the Murray heater core. Don't know if other supply houses sell the Murray core, I have always had good luck with O'Reilly.
__________________
Fort Worth/Dallas TX area 1966 GTO Fontaine Blue 389 CID Carter AFB Muncie 4 speed (orginally an automatic car) |
#17
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missing screws for defrost ducting
After heater core replacement, I notice a couple missing screws. One is just above the center console where the plastic defrost ducting connects to the heater box...
and the other is way up high where the plastic ducting connects to the underside of dash panel. (this picture is taken upside down while laying on my back.) Anyone know what type/size screws? (I imagine they both need a washer also.) 67 GTO (no AC) Last edited by pilot737; 12-28-2019 at 06:30 PM. Reason: added text |
#18
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Here is what the head of the screw looks like . I don’t wanna take it out since I’ll probably break it , loose it then my kid will eat it .
Looks like both screws your talking about are exactly the same and both have no washers |
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