[64speed]

My car is running fine but according to the gauge its not getting up above 150 degrees when going down the road. Now its getting colder here but I dont think its that cold. I have no fan shroud but I have a new fan clutch, factory fan spaced properly to the radiator and an aluminum radiator. Any harm in driving it like this?

[STEELCITYFIREBIRD]

Replace thermostat with a higher temp, 195+*, for cold weather use. Not efficient for removing moisture from crankcase and really not hot enough for efficient combustion.
I had my 68 out the other night (not by choice) when it was 28* out, and it would barely get over 150*, or ever come up on the thermostat(180*) ...even when I ran it hard. When it did open temp would drop to <150*.

[68 Firebird]

My Firebird is similar. every part of the cooling system has been optimized
I have been rewarded with a car that will run 185 on the freeway in 95 degree heat.
and in cooler weather she just kisses the 180 mark on gauge and drops down to
170ish every time stat opens. I don't run mine in winter so I don't bother swapping
To a higher star. Took several attempts to get a 180 that worked correctly!!!!
Good luck.

Gerry

[Schurkey]

Verify the gauge. I have had gauges that read low. If the gauge is found to be acceptably accurate...yup, stuff a hotter thermostat in it.

When it gets REALLY cold, some engines can't make enough heat no matter what thermostat is in them. I had a Honda that needed cardboard in front of the radiator, and a cardboard shield on the forward face of the aluminum block. Eventually the valve cover rusted from the inside...fukkin' engine had no PCV valve, just a vent into the air cleaner.

Cardboard on the grille is a waste of effort, but cardboard-on-the-radiator has a long and glorious history around here. But then, before Global Warming, it was also common to see -40 in January, too.

[Tom Vaught]

Agree on the cardboard on the radiator. Can help a bunch with warming up engine to operating temp in a very cold area like Thompson Lake where we did cold weather testing. Way too much ambient air leaks around the grill (bottom of the vehicle mostly) to work well as a warming up device on cold days.

Tom V.

[steve25]

150 is too cold , not only if it should be keeping the motor oil from getting over 212 degrees which is what's needed to boil off condensation, but the clearances like piston to bore and ring are done for water temps of 185 on up to 220.

[bendutro]

http://www.carnut.com/ramblin/cool3.html

[steve25]

Thanks, that's the chart I could not find!

It shows basically.001" of added cylinder ware per every 50 hours for every 20 degrees under 180 that the motor runs!

[footjoy]

[QUOTE=64speed;5667271]My car is running fine but according to the gauge its not getting up above 150 degrees when going down the road. Now its getting colder here but I dont think its that cold. I have no fan shroud but I have a new fan clutch, factory fan spaced properly to the radiator and an aluminum radiator. Any harm in driving it like this?[/QUOT

What radiator are you running?

[64speed]

I can't think of the name of the brand but it's a three row aluminum that everyone on here is always talking about. It's not an expensive one.

[Inogame]

Champion?

[Old Man Taylor]

I've always run a 180 degree thermostat in mine.

[Blued and Painted]

Cooling and lubrication are closely related. The graph below shows more ware at cooler temps. Because engine oil for modern production vehicles is designed to work around 212 degrees. The problem is that the viscosity of oil varies with its temperature. A “30” grade oil has a viscosity of 3 at 302°F oil temp and thickens to 10 at 212°F . It further thickens to a viscosity of 100 at 104°F and is too thick to measure at the freezing point of 32°F.

[STEELCITYFIREBIRD]

True, one of the main purposes of oil IS to cool..... and clean, lubricate.