[footjoy]

When dry adjusting lifters does the plunger move down ? I watched the You tubes but every one was a little different.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

Greg

[footjoy]

Hydraulic flat tappet

[Old Man Taylor]

Yes, the plunger goes down. I start at maybe about 0.050" depression, then I adjust them running.

[77 TRASHCAN]

I have done as OMT has. I prefer to set them dry, one time only.

With each lifter on the base circle, opposite the highest point of lift of the lobe...
Turn the rocker nut till there is no slack between the rocker arm and valve stem, and NOT so far, making the plunger in the lifter move down, ANY, yet.

Here, you should be able to push down on the push rod end of the rocker, making the plunger bottom out in the lifter body.

Many folks adjust the plunger differently. Many use 1/2 turn, most 3/4 turn. Some even 1/4 turn..(not me). Turn the nut 1/2 turn. The plunger will be in the lifter body some. Push down on the push rod end of the rocker arm, again. You should still be able to push the plunger to the bottom of the lifter body. Ideally the plunger should be close to the middle of movement in its placement in the lifter body.
See what amount of downward plunger travel is left in the lifter body. You may to fine at 3/4 turn.

Of course this is assuming you are using standard hydraulic flat tappet lifters. Not Rhoads, or the "R" type sold by Sealed Power or Melling.

What is the part number on your lifters???

[grivera]

If you have the instructions for your lifters they should have a specific preload amount. Some tell you how far down vs. Turn a quarter/half/etc - the reason being your rocker studs tpi affects how far a turn will depress the plunger.

[Cliff R]

I like to bottom out the plungers and adjust up vs just taking out the "slack" and adjusting them down. I also measure the amount of travel they have for reference and set them in the middle of their travel or closer to plungers bottom out vs just down from zero lash.

This used to be easy but with plunger travel available all over the map these days with various lifters and many have inconsistent plunger to body clearances (leak down rates) I've found it better to run them with LESS plunger travel than more.

Just look at Butler's sight an they show at least 3 different HR lifters with varying amounts of travel in them. In theory it really shouldn't matter where you lash them at but I've found for a quieter engine the LESS plunger travel you leave in them the better things work out all the way around.......Cliff

[Grand73Am]

It appears that everyone is assuming you have an adjustable valve train, which you didn't say you have.

If you still have the stock factory valve train, then it's just torque each one to 20 lb/ft and you're done.

[footjoy]

I am sorry I am using bbc studs with pontiac balls and rockers. with Johnson lifters.

Greg

[Cliff R]

Whatever method you choose two things need to happen. Absolutely take the time you make sure you are fully on the base circle of the lobe you are adjusting.

Also make sure that nothing is "hanging up" on the top side like a pushrod not seated in a lifter, etc.

At that point if the engine is being assembled for the first time the plungers will have very little resistance in them and can be a little tricky to find zero lash. This is why I much prefer bottoming them out gently till the pushrod just locks-up and woln't spin. Then I know for sure things are good to go for adjustments. At that point if you have determined how much plunger travel is available you can adjust the locknuts up from seated appropriately.

With the current lack of quality with many hydraulic lifters, especially HR's, I've found a half turn or so up from seated is plenty, and they will run quieter set there than 1/2 turn down from zero lash in most cases..........Cliff

[footjoy]

Thank you

[Karck]

Do you have Comp Cams lifters? If so DO TEST THEM FIRST WITH A DRILL!

Im writing this Warning because i just got BAD lifter out of box! And what you describe it was way too easy on plunging down. It did not hold pressure at all!!!

I was priming my engine after adjusting preload, and i couldn't get oil to the rockers because all oil pressure bleeded out this one lifter. It is so easy to press that oil pressure coming from the valley channel would open and flow thru it against the push rod.

Looking for better brand lifters from now on....

See the scratch on the lifter piston on picture below.

[Andretti]

Karck, bad news hearing that but on the plus side it sounds like you didn’t have it all buttoned up yet. Shame about the quality of some of this stuff.