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Old 02-16-2021, 01:50 PM
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Default Remflex

Remflex just made our header installation a little easier.
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Old 02-16-2021, 01:52 PM
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good product

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Old 02-16-2021, 02:07 PM
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Best header gasket on the market if your flanges are a little warped.

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Old 02-16-2021, 03:13 PM
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FYI,as said best header gaskets!BUT be very careful!Dont bend them,they will brake and end up in the trash.Expensive lesson.Tom

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Old 02-16-2021, 04:01 PM
78w72 78w72 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 68WarDog View Post
Remflex just made our header installation a little easier.
was there a reason or issue that required you to need those gaskets?

just curious & i know some headers can have leak issues, but knock on wood... i have never had any problems getting different brands of headers to seal & stay leak free on iron or aluminum heads. im even using the stock paper gaskets supplied with hedman headers on my 78 400 6x heads for over 10 years now & lots of street miles & some drag strip runs & they are leak free.

also using the stock supplied hooker gaskets on a set of round port super comps & E-heads with lots of street miles & at least 30+ low 11sec drag strip runs, leak free & no signs of failing.

aside from warped surfaces or cheap headers, i think the key to leak free headers is a good installation & periodic re torquing of the bolts... & using a locking style bolt. if you dont do those things & have leaks down the road you cant really blame the gaskets or headers.


Last edited by 78w72; 02-16-2021 at 04:13 PM.
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Old 02-16-2021, 04:03 PM
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I ordered their 2" but the bolt spacing is incorrect and too wide for a round port.

Percy's has a good 2" graphite/steel core one too.

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Old 02-16-2021, 04:14 PM
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the hookers are graphite/steel too.

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Old 02-16-2021, 05:01 PM
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I had my Remflex gasket blow out on my D port 455. I didn't retorque them. One side is still good. I had some cheapo gaskets laying around and put them in on that side. Real PITA. It was quiet for awhile. I installed them. I drove the car and parked it for a few days. I retorqued the gaskets before driving the car again but about half an hour later they blew out on the other end same side. I have some new Remflex gaskets now. Should I put them in or try the cheapo gaskets again with some Permatex Ultra Copper. ?

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Old 02-16-2021, 05:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 78w72 View Post
was there a reason or issue that required you to need those gaskets?

just curious & i know some headers can have leak issues, but knock on wood... i have never had any problems getting different brands of headers to seal & stay leak free on iron or aluminum heads. im even using the stock paper gaskets supplied with hedman headers on my 78 400 6x heads for over 10 years now & lots of street miles & some drag strip runs & they are leak free.

also using the stock supplied hooker gaskets on a set of round port super comps & E-heads with lots of street miles & at least 30+ low 11sec drag strip runs, leak free & no signs of failing.

aside from warped surfaces or cheap headers, i think the key to leak free headers is a good installation & periodic re torquing of the bolts... & using a locking style bolt. if you dont do those things & have leaks down the road you cant really blame the gaskets or headers.
No issues with headers.I recently pulled my E heads for a refresh( solid roller vs maintenance for street driving) and other changes. I only use remflex gaskets because they're the best on the market. I have already reinstalled my headers using the traditional remflex. Just like keeping an extra set handy , that's when Summit offered the new style gaskets . Running 2" primary SC headers on 70 GTO.


Last edited by 68WarDog; 02-16-2021 at 06:05 PM.
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Old 02-16-2021, 05:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by android 211 View Post
I had my Remflex gasket blow out on my D port 455. I didn't retorque them. One side is still good. I had some cheapo gaskets laying around and put them in on that side. Real PITA. It was quiet for awhile. I installed them. I drove the car and parked it for a few days. I retorqued the gaskets before driving the car again but about half an hour later they blew out on the other end same side. I have some new Remflex gaskets now. Should I put them in or try the cheapo gaskets again with some Permatex Ultra Copper. ?
Don't know about D ports, but you don't retorque remflex gaskets for rd. ports

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Old 02-16-2021, 06:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 68WarDog View Post
No issues with headers.I recently pulled my E heads for a refresh( solid roller vs maintenance for street driving) and other changes. I only use remflex gaskets because they're the best on the market. I have already reinstalled my headers using the traditional remflex. Just like keeping an extra set handy , that's when Summit offered the new style gaskets . Running 2" primary SC headers on 70 GTO.
i use the 2" O port super comps too, i know the remflex are good, just been lucky enough on quite a few sets of headers to not need them. & if/when a standard gaskets does go bad its pretty easy to change them with the header still bolted up.


Last edited by 78w72; 02-16-2021 at 06:18 PM.
  #12  
Old 02-16-2021, 06:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by android 211 View Post
I had my Remflex gasket blow out on my D port 455. I didn't retorque them. One side is still good. I had some cheapo gaskets laying around and put them in on that side. Real PITA. It was quiet for awhile. I installed them. I drove the car and parked it for a few days. I retorqued the gaskets before driving the car again but about half an hour later they blew out on the other end same side. I have some new Remflex gaskets now. Should I put them in or try the cheapo gaskets again with some Permatex Ultra Copper. ?
if they blow out in the same spot on the same side you might want to check the header surfaces around the ports, sometimes theres welding slag or not perfectly flat on the raised bead around the port.

ive read about using the copper high heat RTV, some say even with no gasket, but id prefer a gasket in there. also look into header bolts that are serrated under the head or use lock washers, i used the summit stainless serrated header bolts & they work very good for the price.

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Old 02-17-2021, 09:54 AM
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Just another vote for remflex. Had a set of headers that refused to seal with copper gaskets. The remflex sealed perfectly with never a hint of a leak. The only caution is when installing, be very careful not to bend the gasket!

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  #14  
Old 02-17-2021, 11:48 AM
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Another vote for Remflex..they have help to seal my old crappy warped Hookers for a few years now...they should work well with my new Dougs!

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  #15  
Old 02-17-2021, 12:01 PM
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You retorque header gaskets every time the hood is up, or at least check them. Less frequently if the last few times you checked they were still tight.

Copper RTV just makes a mess, I could never understand why folks did that.


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Old 02-17-2021, 12:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HWYSTR455 View Post
You retorque header gaskets every time the hood is up, or at least check them. Less frequently if the last few times you checked they were still tight.

Copper RTV just makes a mess, I could never understand why folks did that..
agree on the retorque, maybe not every time the hood is up but definitely needs to be done on most gaskets, maybe not the remflex but still a good idea to check periodically... same for all other gaskets, intake, water pump to oil pan & timing cover etc.

i do my headers after a couple heat cycles when new, then again after maybe 500 miles. & then each season i check them & am able to get a small amount of turns on the bolts. after that they usually stay tight & i havent checked the 10+ year old paper gaskets for at least 3-4 years now & the hookers for a year or 2. good reminder to check them both before startup this season. wonder how many leaks are due to people not checking & retorqueing bolts??

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Old 02-17-2021, 12:29 PM
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Remflex told me it's best to order directly through them instead of Amazon, etc. Remflex packs them to make the trip safely instead of just throwing them loosely in a box. They will crack if not careful. They are an amazing product.

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Old 02-17-2021, 12:55 PM
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My cars are low, and I do scrape, which in turn eventually transmits to the header gaskets. So regardless of what I put in there, they won't last forever.

Pure track car usually, or rarely, has that issue (like speed bumps)

I use typical composite gaskets, the Mr. Gasket, Fel-Pro, and the like. As long as they don't leak, they last a while. Once a header gasket leaks, it's done. No re-tightening, goo or whatever will prevent it from failing.

I cut the gaskets into 3s, front, rear, and center. I also cut a 'V' into the bolt hole areas, to allow one to be slipped in without completely removing the bolts. So easy to change that way, I see no reason to buy expensive gaskets.

End ones tend to go more often than center ones, due to flex/speed bumps, or anything that makes the headers move around.

If you have a stubborn piece of gasket, you can use a drywall scraper/putty spatula and slip it in there wo removing all the bolts.

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Old 02-17-2021, 12:57 PM
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Some people used to spray their' gaskets with PAM, to help release them easier, but that was in the 'cardboard' days. I don't bother anymore, I always use composite.


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  #20  
Old 02-17-2021, 01:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HWYSTR455 View Post
My cars are low, and I do scrape, which in turn eventually transmits to the header gaskets. So regardless of what I put in there, they won't last forever.

Pure track car usually, or rarely, has that issue (like speed bumps)

I use typical composite gaskets, the Mr. Gasket, Fel-Pro, and the like. As long as they don't leak, they last a while. Once a header gasket leaks, it's done. No re-tightening, goo or whatever will prevent it from failing.

I cut the gaskets into 3s, front, rear, and center. I also cut a 'V' into the bolt hole areas, to allow one to be slipped in without completely removing the bolts. So easy to change that way, I see no reason to buy expensive gaskets.

End ones tend to go more often than center ones, due to flex/speed bumps, or anything that makes the headers move around.

If you have a stubborn piece of gasket, you can use a drywall scraper/putty spatula and slip it in there wo removing all the bolts.

.
thats what i mentioned earlier about easy to replace them if one does blow out... just notch the bolt holes & slide it in after pushing out the old ones, with a putty knife if they are stuck. had to do that once back in the 90's on a 455 with cheap paper gaskets & i didnt retorque them, never had a problem since so no reason to buy specialty expensive gaskets.

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