[beastlykirby]

So broke the A-arm never seen it break here before. Its not even in the ball joint its about 1 inch from the ball socket. Only doing about 2 mph so no major damage..

[Stuart]

It looks like the right side of the break in the last picture has rust on it, which would indicate it's been cracked for some time before it came apart altogether. Good thing it happened at low speed.

[beastlykirby]

Originally Posted by Stuart

It looks like the right side of the break in the last picture has rust on it, which would indicate it's been cracked for some time before it came apart altogether. Good thing it happened at low speed.

Yeah, it looks like it was previously damaged and then broke from the stress when i fully turned the wheel and started backing up into the garage. Fortunately no damage was caused other then the brake line and the a arm.

[Greg Reid]

Yeah, looks like only an inch or two is newly exposed metal. Good thing it was at low speed is right.

[Charlie Brengun]

I like the colour of your car, looks really nice. I guess you have an excuse to buy some tubular a-arms now..

[coonhunter70]

I wonder if it had been heated there before to remove the ball joint.

[dataway]

Originally Posted by coonhunter70

I wonder if it had been heated there before to remove the ball joint.

Exactly what I was thinking ... that would be right at the edge of the HAZ (heat affected zone) if it had been heated with a torch.

[thepontiacman]

Wow, I've never seen that before. Most times problem is ball joint or tie rods that fail.
Glad it was very low speed and you and your car are ok.


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['ol Pinion head]

Very rare occurrence, but have seen this before. The much more common problem with near 50 year old used lower control arms are the ones from northern drivers & from fieldcars, ones that sat on the ground for decades & moisture attacked the lower controls arm, usually pocking the metal & thinning the flat area where the shock mtg clips slide on.

25 years ago, hauling in cheap A-body partscars, I'd disassemble each chassis & mark & sort the lower control arms. The absolute worst condition were pitched, the best saved for future restorations. Lowers that were pitted up some, maybe pocked a little, but usable went with cutoff frames, A-body PS pitman arms, & Pinto spindles to IMCA dirt track chassis builders. The IMCA chassis guys had the Pinto/MustangII spindles made in China, then they followed up with A-body stamped steel lower control arms. These "repop" lower control arms then took off. They are fairly easy to spot, the leading edge of the control arm where it rolls over out by the ballpoint is not as deep on the Chinese lower control arms versus originals.

[ron cozzo]

Looks like it's time for a complete front suspension rebuild. Those ball joints aren't looking to good either.

[Dennis H.]

By looking at the newer sway bar links, surprised it didn't get caught when they were installed, they mount real close to where the break is, and that crack appears to have been there awhile.

[Anthony]

I have a set of original ones off my 68 you can have them if you want. I went with global west stuff in my car.

Ant

[mgarblik]

Very pretty car and glad no outer body damage. That is not a common failure area, but 2/3 of the area was cracked long ago it seems from the rust line. Your car looks stock so I personally see no reason for an aftermarket front suspension, unless you just want to go that way. I would replace the broken parts, scrape and clean the other parts for careful inspection and get back to enjoying the car. It's very unlikely you would have a repeat failure.