[lemans67]

I just checked mine. Think they are from Summit Racing. 6 ton rating. Locked they will collapse with minor pressure.
I always use back ups anyway, but still not a good product.

[Tom Vaught]

Jack Stand quality must have gone to H*ll as my 6 ton welded stands are twice as tall as the ones in B-ban's picture and are welded pieces. Twice as heavy (weight wise) vs the typical 3 ton and 6 ton stands I see out there today.

Next set will be a fabricated set using heavy angle iron, (again) and a Pin Lock vs the tooth type lock system. I do not think I have ever used more than 3 positions on the rack/stand.

Tom V.

[Va68goat]

Thank you for posting the recall information. I just returned mine today. Harbor Freight will give you a gift card for what they cost ($42.00).

[chuckies76ta]

I built myself some blocks from 2x4 and 2x6 wood. I crisscrossed the wood as I built them. I would not get under any car, especially the front end with any jack stand no matter what. It just freaks me out. The back end not so bad. I now have a vehicle hoist, but occasionally still use the blocks. I use 2-6ton on the rear axle if needed.

Thanks for posting the info.
Charles

[Tom Vaught]

I really like those crisscrossed wood stands as an extra safety measure.
Mine typically go under the wheels unless I am doing steering work or brake work then they go under the frame rails on the sides of the vehicle.

I built my wood stands in 3 bolt together sections so that they are easier to move around the garage and workshop.
It really only takes a few minutes to get the right height assy for the job you are doing.
Mine are glued and screwed assemblies.

A Bendpak lift would be nice but really do not have the room for it right now. Happy for the people that have them though.

Tom V.

[Koppster]

Here's a couple of different style jack stands:

https://www.amazon.com/Torin-Big-Alu...1617011&sr=8-6

https://www.amazon.com/ESCO-10498-Ja..._t2_B0007XTGCI

Rick

[Mr Anonymous]

Well, after reading about this, I checked my stands. My dad had purchased them in 2001, and arent the ones under recall - but I CERTAINLY DID find a failed part on one of them. The roll pin that connects the "handle" to the "pawl" has broken off. Conceivably, the handle can be pulled out causing the pawl to move. I'd have probably noticed the handle flopping around if I had been about to use it, but the truth is, this recall probably did me some good to go check my stuff. Replacing the failed roll pin should take care of the problem I suppose. Just another item on the "Crap I need to fix" pile.

I'll snap a picture at lunchtime.

[burd]

More has to be happening to collapse a Jack Stand than just a car sitting on it level.

[Mr Anonymous]

one of these is not like the other.

[Tom Vaught]

I really like the leg design of the ESCO 10498 Jack Stand, 3 Ton Capacity

a) 4 "walls" supporting each leg vs 2 legs with typical angle iron or formed plate.

b) I also like the much larger welded area where the legs attach to the down tube vs the
typical angle iron units.

c) They look like they would be easy to fabricate and weld (on a personal fabrication basis) either with Tig, Mig, or Arc welding.

d) I like the Heavy Pin and drilled hole design vs the "Toothed Stalk" design.
Normally you never need all of the adjustment points that the "Toothed Stalk" design offers.

e) Still thinking about the rubber biscuit deal on the top of the stand:
Might be great for keeping that GTO & F-BIRD undercarriage pristine.
Few of those cars would be on Jack Stands and a soft clothe and normal "Raised Ends" crossbar
at the top of the stand might be safer.

f) You could use 3/16" or 1/4" thick round steel tube with drilled holes (deburred) for the
uprights. Much safer design and material is cheap on a "Upgraded" wall thickness dimension.

Would make a really nice safe jackstand for the typical high school student "Vo - Ag" welding project.

Tom V.

[Koppster]

Tom,

Couple of ESCO variants for consideration, I like them too. One with an axle type post and a pair that are a little shorter.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...KIKX0DER&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...2KCKEQV4&psc=1

Rick

[Skip Fix]

Yep I have HB 3 ton set one that is recalled another not.

[sdbob]

Mine on recall. I also bought NAPA years ago. I also made my own with 3/8" pins when I was 18. Supported alot of vehicles. Wondering could you take these 'defective' jackstands and drill a 1/4" hole in web at locking positions for a pin?? Would it affect safety??

[Mr Anonymous]

lets put these jack stands in a hydraulic press and see what they'll really do.

[Rincon]

I had a problem with the tripod style made from muffler tubing. It failed and punched a hole in the bottom of a car, a corvette, I was working under. Serious and expensive damage. Right in front of the owner. Since then and for the last 35 years I have only relied on 6x6 inch wood blocks. Cheap and reliable. They have never failed.

[Tom Vaught]

A Lot to be said for the 6 X 6 "wooden blocks?

A friend made some 'Light Weight' versions by using using 2 X 6 vertical "walls" with 1/4"
plywood glued on the top and bottom of each "block". Used a drawer handle to carry each one.

He also used 3/8" threaded rod (with 1" washers/nuts on both sides of the 4 walls.
He did not trust Jack Stands. He would raise the vehicle to the height he wanted then
would insert the number of "Wooden Boxes" to support that corner. The boxes went under the frame so he had access to all of the suspension/brake/tire assemblies too.

Lots of creative ways to build safe stands.

Tom V.

We always put a Vertical 4" aluminum "I-beam" under each corner of his old cable lift car hoist. He had a cable break one time and the result was not pretty. Be safe out there.

[Rincon]

Dunnage. That's what wood blocks are called. 6"X6"X8 ft lengths are for sale through home depot for about 20 bucks plus 20 bucks for a gallon of linseed oil and 2 bucks for a paint brush. Cut them into 12 inch lengths. What else you gonna do during "the lock down"

[mgarblik]

Those Easco stands look OK from a safety standpoint. The cupped saddle on the one set isn't the greatest on a full frame car or truck because it will be sitting on the edges. They are best for pinch weld lifting on a unibody car. The other set with the flat rubber pads is OK on a full frame car or truck but you have to be very careful on a wet vehicle that has been undercoated. The pads can slip between frame and stand. The wide base and cross-pin design is better than most ratchet type sheet metal stands made by Harbor Freight and others.

[Tom Vaught]

Excellent observation and comment Mike.

I typically never lift the body and then support the frame with Jack Stands.
As you posted, most do not have a wide enough throat to grab the sides of the frame,
(especially a full frame like my convertible). So I always use the fabricated wood stands with a large support area where the frame sits on the material so that the vehicle cannot slip off the wooden stands.

Tom V.

[sdbob]

Visit local ,if you have them,saw mill. Geez I have about 20 pcs 4x4x 24",pine. I need to get rid of I have to many. Yrs of construction with treated lumber saved all the pcs.