[stevesbirds]

I recall reading a post about how oil field workers in Tundra region always picked chevrolets first, not Fords, not Dodges. First off, this is in extreme below temps where engines never get turned off. Second, I've been frozen to death in Fords with pushrod V8's on the high plains in a artic fronts. No amount of cardboard on radiator coverage ever helped and don't dare shut the motor off or you're a gonner.

GM must have a better setup. My winter daily driver reliably heats cabin and its a mid 90s pushrod V8 Chevy truck. The damper is screwed up and I still stay warm.

[Tim Corcoran]

I believe this is a good article on the subject of anti freeze/coolant. If you have a cast iron engine with a brass radiator and/or heater core you might want to read this article.

https://atlib.info/en/blog/219-antifreeze-compatibility

[Kenth]

Originally Posted by Tim Corcoran

I believe this is a good article on the subject of anti freeze/coolant. If you have a cast iron engine with a brass radiator and/or heater core you might want to read this article.

https://atlib.info/en/blog/219-antifreeze-compatibility

Good info, and conclusion.

"The only rule you can follow — use the type of coolant which is recommended by the manufacturer of your car."

[Shiny]

Originally Posted by Tim Corcoran

I believe this is a good article on the subject of anti freeze/coolant. If you have a cast iron engine with a brass radiator and/or heater core you might want to read this article.

https://atlib.info/en/blog/219-antifreeze-compatibility

Thanks, good reference!

[grandam1979]

What do you guys think of this stuff?

[OCMDGTO]

Tim,
What heater core are you going to use?

[78w72]

Originally Posted by grandam1979

What do you guys think of this stuff?

Looks about the same as this stuff, lowest priced option but still good quality.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Super-Tec...3&from=/search

or this... https://www.walmart.com/ip/Prestone-...2&from=/search

[Tim Corcoran]

Originally Posted by OCMDGTO

Tim,
What heater core are you going to use?

I purchased a brass/copper heater core from Ames.

[Tim Corcoran]

What I get from the article I posted is, If you have a brass radiator and a brass heater core you should be using an IAT coolant (original green). IAT is for cast iron engines with brass/copper radiator and heater core. It's not compatible with aluminum. So it seems that if you install an aluminum radiator you may want to also get an aluminum heater core and use one of the coolants compatible with aluminum.

https://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.co...ween-coolants/

[Kenth]

The transmission (camgears) cover is aluminium.

Seems to work with original brass radiator and a brass heater core using regular ethylene based glycol.

[Tim Corcoran]

Most of us find it almost impossible to either get access to the block drain plugs or can get them out with the engine in the car. Prestone makes a kit to flush the cooling system in cases where you need to completely flush the system especially if your changing coolant types. Prestone has made this kit for a very long time and I have used it in the past.

https://prestone.com/product/prestone-flush-n-fill-kit/

[grivera]

Originally Posted by Tim Corcoran

What I get from the article I posted is, If you have a brass radiator and a brass heater core you should be using an IAT coolant (original green). IAT is for cast iron engines with brass/copper radiator and heater core. It's not compatible with aluminum. So it seems that if you install an aluminum radiator you may want to also get an aluminum heater core and use one of the coolants compatible with aluminum.

https://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.co...ween-coolants/

Seems the universal/all brands coolant would be the safer bet for aluminum and brass mix, of all the options listed.

[Tim Corcoran]

Originally Posted by Kenth

The transmission (camgears) cover is aluminium.

Seems to work with original brass radiator and a brass heater core using regular ethylene based glycol.

Kenth
After further reading I do see that the original green ethylene glycol (IAT) coolant does also protect aluminum. If using the IAT you should change the coolant every year or two max. I've decided to change to the IAT type coolant most likely this.

https://prestone.com/product/prime-conventional-green/

[OCMDGTO]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

I'd be curious to know where it sprung a leak and why. When you get it apart, post here please.

One thing I know has caused issues for some is by stressing the hose nipples, cracks form where they enter the tank. Much more common than people realize.


EDIT: Don't pull or twist the hoses to get them off the nipples, cut them off, and avoid the problem all together.

.

Hwy here you go

[HWYSTR455]

Yes, the dreaded nipple to tank joint, just as suspected. That area tends to be under stress/abuse, hard to say what the actual cause was. I know it's happened to me though.

Is that a year that had the brace/bracket on them? Not sure which bodies got those or not but vaguely recall seeing them.


.

[HWYSTR455]

Thank you for posting follow up by the way!

.

[OCMDGTO]

Yes, it has the retainer brackets on it. Hard to see in the pic