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#21
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#22
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Those are just extra parts, like when you put together an IKEA bed.
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#23
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LOL...right? Tubes with O-rings? We don't need no stinking tubes to connect this water pump!
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#24
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Keep us posted, curious to hear how the cooling system works once the tubes are installed.
Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
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68 Firebird-- Street/Strip - 400/461 Eagle Forged Bottom End & Ross Flat top pistons. KRE 325 CFM D port, Ultradyne 263/271 @.050, .4267 lift. Crower Solid roller lifters and 1.65 stainless rockers. Quickfuel 1000 on Torker2 intake and 2" open spacer. Hedman 1.75" headers. TH400 w/brake. Ford 9" w/3.80 gears & 28x9 Hoosier pro bracket drag radial. Best ET: 1.35 60ft, 6.29 @ 107.20 mph, 9.99 @132.33 mph. 3,300 race weight |
#25
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Will do. The radiator was new 3 years ago, but it's going to have dual electric 12" fans and a custom shroud with flapper valves in it, and a new fan relay. I've got a high volume water pump (billet aluminum impellers), new tubes/orings, new thermostat, new hoses, new fluid, new gaskets...uh...is there anything else besides new clamps left? All because it's missing these two tubes.
Sigh. |
#26
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Well when you get all that done you will have no idea what helped it if it cools down!LOL
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#27
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Now I just need to straighten out the final tranny leak/crap and maybe I can finally get the Bird into the paint shop. |
#28
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Ok, so here's the whole deal.
1) No water tube sleeves with O-rings in the water pump. Left a good 3/8-1/2" opening for the water to fall. 2) Flexalite fan relay with adjustable temperature was intermittent. Some days it worked, some days it didn't. You could adjust it, it would work for a few days, then quit. 3) Flexalite 18" fan shroud didn't cover the radiator completely from side to side, leaving a 1-2" gap on each side of the shroud. 4) The Trans Am stacked gauge package had a water temp gauge that reads 18-20 degrees too high. So my 210 reading was actually about 190. I borrowed a manual gauge with sender from the local gauge shop, attached it to the manifold, and ran from manual to dash gauge to verify while running the engine. Have to put a resistor on the temperature sender to get it calibrated to the water temperature gauge in the dash. Since it was all apart, installed new Flowkooler high volume water pump with new sleeves and 0-rings, new 180 thermostat, new hoses, fluid, etc. Went to Mattson Radiator / The Fan Man in Santa Ana, CA...had a custom radiator shroud with two 12" SPAL fans, along with a new relay, and AC relay, new wiring. Put it all back together, it gets up to 210 degrees on the dash guage (190 in reality) then the fans kick on and it cools down to about 190 (172 reality), with the A/C on. So, basically a complete wipe of the cooling system, better fans, shroud, and finding bad parts hindering the cooling. $1300 later with parts and labor, it's working the way it should. I'll post pics after the temp sending unit resistor upgrade tomorrow. Damn, this is fun, isn't it? LOL |
#29
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Ok, looks like the cooling saga is over. With the calibrated temperature sensor the water temp stays right around 185 (thermostat is 185) under city driving with the AC on.
Going to give it a run on the freeway at 75 mph this weekend, and hoping for the best that the new fans/shroud, and water pump do the right thing. |
#30
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Well, no sooner did I upgrade everything else in the cooling system then the thermostat housing started to leak. LOL
Got a new aluminum housing, gooped the gasket, tightened the crap out of it, and no more leaks. I swear I'm going to rename this car the Pandemic Pontiac! LOL I hope you all have a great weekend! Jim |
#31
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Finally! Car runs around 190-195 degrees doing 100mph on the I-5, less if I drive 75. No more leaks, runs, drips or errors. Fixed the shifter button, local well known tranny shop effed up the C-Clips, and the shift knob retaining clip while doing the TH400 to 2004R tranny upgrade.
Now, it's time to get the final tranny leaks (dipstick tube o-ring is the suspected leak area) buttoned up, and it's off to paint. I think I'm all out of repairs (finally!) with this old Bird. Jim |
#32
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And that's a wrap, I think. Drove for about 35-40 miles in 100 degree heat on Monday, stop and go, some WOT, and lot of waiting for light to change. The Bird hung around 195 degrees (less than half) the whole way, with the AC on full blast. Nice to see this.
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#33
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Love the interior in your car had a white 69 w red interior great colors.
Anyway if you don’t have a spring in your lower or upper radiator hoses, do that it’s what caused this on my car. For thermostat gaskets , pretty much all gaskets I use hylomar M best sealer you’ll ever find. Anyway great car.
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Happiness is just a turbocharger away! 960 HP @ 11 psi, 9.70 at 146. Iron heads, iron stock 2 bolt block , stock crank, 9 years haven't even changed a spark plug! selling turbos and turbo related parts since 2005! |
#34
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No spring in the hoses, either, still cools just fine now. Glad you like the car, I just got the TA spoiler and a new trunk lid installed and painted. |
The Following User Says Thank You to ScumOne For This Useful Post: | ||
#35
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I had the exact same problem and tried EVERYTHING from water wetters buying new radiators and different fans messing with the timing new hoses etc. Nothing worked untill I put in a properly clearanced flow Kooler pump
Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk |
#36
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But it was another $200 repair bill including all the Prestone, hose, new clamp, labor. Good thing I have the Premier AAA towing package! Sheesh! Last edited by ScumOne; 01-24-2021 at 03:05 PM. |
#37
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Figured I'd add that because now I remember I'd made that change. Other was my hose collapsing which wasn't an issue at first w new hoses but as they got older they started collapsing only under higher rpms. Glad you got it sorted out, now when I build my new motor I'll check that clearance for the plate.
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Happiness is just a turbocharger away! 960 HP @ 11 psi, 9.70 at 146. Iron heads, iron stock 2 bolt block , stock crank, 9 years haven't even changed a spark plug! selling turbos and turbo related parts since 2005! |
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