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  #21  
Old 07-18-2019, 09:21 PM
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Primary should be right at the "square window" on the Primary Transfer Slot.

Secondary air flow and blade position is not as critical.

At one time Ford had some plastic connectors with a "orifice" inside the connector.
They even came with a sponge filter on one end. Great for finding the right bleed orifice for the idle air flow you want.

I am sure that companies are still making the stuff.

The Barry Grant and Holley IDLE-EZE air bleed system works ok too, if the parts are made correctly when they build the carb.

Tom V.

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  #22  
Old 07-19-2019, 09:40 AM
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I can tell you just a little opening in the secondary blades can really bump up the idle to where the primary screw can;'t even bring it down! The 3310 I just freshened to get the 65 GTO running I did that think well I'll help even out the idle in all 4 BBLs -had to turn it back down.

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  #23  
Old 07-19-2019, 10:04 AM
Tandyman Tandyman is offline
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My problem surfaced on a carb that had been working flawlessly for 7 years . It was not caused by someone forgetting to remove the tail above the nub on install. That would have been much easier to spot than this issue . This problem was much harder to find and I actually had to move the nub with my finger to see that the piece of stem connecting the umbrella head to the nub was partially broken. Strange thing is that this problem occurred on the one day that I forgot to bring my spare carb and carb repair/extra parts kit and it was a wasted race day because of it. .

  #24  
Old 07-19-2019, 10:25 AM
ta man ta man is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skip Fix View Post
I can tell you just a little opening in the secondary blades can really bump up the idle to where the primary screw can;'t even bring it down! The 3310 I just freshened to get the 65 GTO running I did that think well I'll help even out the idle in all 4 BBLs -had to turn it back down.
My normal procedure is square the front T slot and never touch the primary idle screw again and use the rear secondary blades for idle speed adjustment.
Setting floats..a dribble out of the front,no dribble out of back unless car is rocked slightly.

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  #25  
Old 07-19-2019, 07:00 PM
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I was also having some fuel starvation on the top end charge, about 1200 feet. I contacted my carb builder and was informed to adjust fuel level 1/2 way up sight plug. Starvation went away, I would guess modifying these carbs from original settings can change float levels?

  #26  
Old 07-19-2019, 08:44 PM
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If you have a stock type Holley carb and fuel bowls, the fuel level should be as ta man posted in his reply.
If you have a large window (clear glass) type bowl then in the center of the window is correct.

Half way up the small plastic sight plug on a normal Holley fuel bowl with have issues on any hard braking of the vehicle.

Tom V.

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  #27  
Old 07-19-2019, 09:25 PM
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Hey Tom it’s always run at halfway up the window or slightly below. Sent u a PM...
I did look at the secondary blades and no transfer slot exposed. I set them like the front. Testing tomorrow again..

  #28  
Old 07-20-2019, 08:55 AM
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Andy,
Start with your base & work your way up.
If rear T-slot is not exposed then reduce your bypass air and bench set your blade stops to exposed equal amounts
Jeff

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  #29  
Old 07-24-2019, 10:57 AM
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Andy,
How goes it???

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  #30  
Old 07-24-2019, 02:33 PM
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Hey Trashcan.....
Was busy with the carb Saturday and then gone for couple days. Got to it yesterday.
Called Jeff.(Shaker 455 ) who originally built the carb . We chatted for a long time. Jeff is a great guy to deal with . Come up with several scenarios and made a game plan. We agreed the venting was not really were it should be and i made up some temporary vents from 2 other sets . i used Tom Vaughts ideas on that.

Next inspected the trasistion slots and adjusted the blades. Secondary were not showing . So Adjusted that accordingly. Removed the main air bleed , its in the centre and removes from the top of the base plate. Went from a 67 to a 37.
Used the secondary plate adjustment screw to adjust idel . Had to set everything from baseline. Have 12.5 vacuum, in gear and 10 in drive.
Idel is 950 in park and 850 in gear.
Went for a good ride and its much better but not perfect . Doesnt want to die but RPM drops about 150 but recovers much faster. I still have more to tweak on this.
So want to thank Jeff for some guidance and ideas and Tom. He is sending me some modified vents for me to try.
I have couple more things to try by the end of the week.

  #31  
Old 07-25-2019, 01:40 PM
Formula jg Formula jg is offline
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I've been chasing this problem with my Mighty Demon for years, here is a link to the most recent post on this site:

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=819460

My last resort was the Dashpot which I was all excited about however the bubble was burst during my sourcing for a dashpot to fit my Demon, nothing worked.

Good news for you if you choose to go this route is that you should have no problem at all bolting on a dashpot to your Holley.

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