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Va68goat · 07-20-2019, 11:59 AM

Here are the two videos from yesterday. I didn't want to initially post this because we still have more to do. I don't think anyone can do an honest assessment without knowing where we're at. So here are the videos. We are going to try another distributor. Maybe this will make sense to some of you guys!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ghoG-DsNJOg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RUnO9Fwj0qQ

NeighborsComplaint · 07-20-2019, 03:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Va68goat

Here are the two videos from yesterday. I didn't want to initially post this because we still have more to do. I don't think anyone can do an honest assessment without knowing where we're at. So here are the videos. We are going to try another distributor. Maybe this will make sense to some of you guys!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ghoG-DsNJOg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RUnO9Fwj0qQ

Definitely not right but almost sounds like a piston slap.

mgarblik · 07-20-2019, 03:44 PM

I listened to the videos of the engine and I do hear some rhythmic noise. If God forbid, I was stuck working on a situation like this, here is how I would proceed. 1. Go ahead and swap the distributor for a known good unit since this was a known problem area. If that does not work. 2. Remove all the belts and run without any of that stuff turning. If that doesn't work. 3. Remove the fuel pump and run without it. Use a block-off plate or even duct tape. Only needs to run for 20 seconds. if that doesn't work. 4. Remove torque converter bolts and push out of way. Run engine. If still the EXACT same noise, put everything back together. 5. Run engine again and remove one spark plug wire at a time to try and isolate the noise to 1 cylinder. If that doesn't work. 6. I might wave the white flag at that point. But I am not easily defeated. This is obviously a tough one.

mgarblik · 07-20-2019, 03:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NeighborsComplaint

Definitely not right but almost sounds like a piston slap.

If it is piston slap, get it fully up to operating temperature and it should go away. If it does, your worries are over. If it has forged pistons it will make some piston noise until they grow. That's normal stuff. I just can't tell from a cell phone video. This is where an experienced helper could really help you.

tom s · 07-20-2019, 03:50 PM

Might even try removing all the plugs,remove the coil wire and crank it over so you might be able to hear the noise with out any engine noise.Worth a try.Tom

tom s · 07-20-2019, 03:52 PM

I have a engine with piston slap,all of them make noise.Does not sound like piston slap to me.Tom

ponchjoe · 07-20-2019, 03:55 PM

I agree with mgarblik but this is not a smooth running engine at idle. Does it go away with rpms? I had the VOODOO 704 HFT in my 462 and it idled nice at 850-900 but not at 650-800 range.
I would pull each plug wire and see if it smooths out. If it does, change your ignition set up. BTW, the distributor does have 12 v all the time right, not just crank?

mgarblik · 07-20-2019, 07:06 PM

I just had this crazy idea pop in my head. I keep trying to think, "what's different from the dyno than the installation in your car". I don't know what type of dyno your engine was run on, but my dyno, a Superflow SF-901 REQUIRES a manual transmission flywheel and a drive plate to couple the engine to the dyno. Your car is an auto trans unit. You need to make absolutely sure you are using the correct flex plate to crankshaft bolts for your application. These would be bolts that have a super narrow shoulder under the head, threads almost all the way up. They should protrude through the flex plate into the crankshaft and stop just shy of flush on the inside of the crankshaft flange. There may be a shim used on the assembly or not depending on year. Torque is 95 Ft. Lbs. Make absolutely sure all this is correct or it absolutely will make a knocking noise much like what I am hearing. Again, I can't help feeling something is different from the dyno to your installation that is causing this. Good luck.

Va68goat · 07:34 PM

mgarblik,
We are definitely going to try another distributor. We've run the motor before without the belts..the knocking noise was still present. We did run the motor with the fuel from the bowls..I don't think we took the fuel filter off though. We still got the knocking noise with running the motor off the bowls. I can say that yesterday when we used a broomstick to listen for a signature, we definitely got noise from the distributor area but not the fuel pump. We will remove the fuel pump and block it off. We've removed the torque converter back 3 different times, the knocking noise was still present. We even installed a new flex plate and the knocking noise was still present. We've done the test of removing the plugs one at a time on 2 separate occasions and the knocking noise was still present each time. Also, the videos that I recently posted, the temperature was at 185 degrees.

- This video is the very first time that I heard the motor.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kHLshwwe-Tc

It's the video from the begining of this thread where guys reacted to the noise. There are plenty of other videos on my youtube page and they all sound the same.

ponchjoe,
It does not go away with RPM's. You can still hear it but it's masked with the sound of the motor. Not sure about the 12 volts. I'll ask my buddy thats helping me.

Va68goat · 07-20-2019, 07:18 PM

mgarblik,
I have a video from underneath the car when we checked out the flexplate to crank bolts. When I replaced the flexplate, I also went with new flexplate to crankshaft bolts...the knocking noise was still present. The bolts were not hitting!

grivera · 07-20-2019, 08:38 PM

If you replaced the engine harness via M&H and asked for HEI upgrade it should have 12 volts to coil wire

Va68goat · 07-20-2019, 08:41 PM

Thanks Will...yeah, it's all new M&H (HEI).

Sun Tuned · 07-20-2019, 09:34 PM

It's missing it's ass off...

Why?

In addition to the knock.

Are we sure nothing is bent on that reluctor wheel???

ponchjoe · 07-20-2019, 10:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sun Tuned

It's missing it's ass off...

Why?

In addition to the knock.

Are we sure nothing is bent on that reluctor wheel???

ST, you and I are thinking the same way on this, this seems like ignition to me as well. Watching the heater hose bounce is a big indicator.

abefromen · 07-20-2019, 10:45 PM

Strangely similar to the noise my old .060 over 389 used to make.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iAGp6IdSTl4

In my case it turned out to be a piston issue.

Va68goat · 07-21-2019, 07:43 AM

We've been down the ignition issue for 2 years and the guys that are helping me are pretty confident that it's not an ignition issue. Paul inspected the distributor and made a few videos that I posted.

As for the missing, we're still checking some things but that knocking noise is not going to go away. We're very confident that it's a mechanical issue. I hope we're wrong.

Sun Tuned · 07-22-2019, 01:14 PM

Firing order I bet is correct 18436572, but has anyone checked to see if they went in the right direction??

Sure looks shaky on that video.

69 Limelight · 07-23-2019, 07:53 PM

I don't see how what I'm about to submit could possibly be because it was gone over by builder and went through dyno cell but, is there any possibility that the cam is ground with a 7-4 swap and therefore the firing order would be 18736542? The cam I currently have is a 7-4 swap and if I hadn't asked when I ordered it from cam company I wouldn't have known. No where on cam card or paper work does it say such.

Back on posts 719, 720 & 730 the posters are confident it's spark knock and proper timing would get rid of knock.

At this point seems like everything has been checked and something's double and triple checked as well as a lot of parts replaced and money thrown at it by owner and not much left so I'm throwing it out there. 18436572 firing order when it should be 18736542 would certainly make it shake and run rough like it does.

Va68goat · 07-23-2019, 07:54 PM

Sun Tuned,

The wires are the same as they were when they were on the dyno a little over a month ago. I was told there was no knocking noise while it was running on the dyno. We'll check that though. Jeff wants me to check the plugs as well!

Va68goat · 09:02 PM

69 Limelight,

I never received a cam card when the motor was delivered to me. I would expect that Paul got that right. This motor has been timed multiple times by guys that are much more experienced than me. I'm willing to bet they timed it correctly. When I received the motor the first time, the distributor was set by Paul as it was on the dyno. The distributor was not touched and the knock that we hear now is exactly as it was almost 2 years ago. The one common thing from when the motor was started for the 1st time almost 2 years ago and now is, when you use a listening device, the signature is coming from the exact location as it was before...the distributor area. Thats why I feel the distributor bushing is the result of something else that is wrong..it doesn't seem possible that it was the source of the knocking.

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