[Stripes]

Carb is a 69 rodchester, exact cam specs unknown, but likely a mild 212@.050. I had detonation issues and could only run 8 degrees advance, 30 total. The exhaust has always had an h pipe cor the 2 years we have owned the car. I will check the PVC hose and valve. We always ran shell 93 octane gas.

[Schurkey]

1. Valve stem seal on guide looks damaged.
2. Valve O-ring seal near valve tip is in terrible condition.

WHY are there two valve seals being used? I'd expect an O-ring AND a metal shield at the retainer end, OR a seal stuck on the top of the guide. Not both, and not an O-ring without a shield.

Yes, a PCV system can cause oil burning. The two main issues would be an improperly-baffled PCV valve, so that the oil isn't separated from the crankcase fumes; and a faulty PCV valve that's just pulling too much air.

[STEELCITYFIREBIRD]

Oil causes detonation. Find the source of oil and you'll have 2 problems repaired.
Put the retainer on the valve and see if the Oring is even in the retainer to seal it.
Are their positive seals on both the intake and exhaust?
Where is the PCV valve in the engine(valley pan or valve cover)?
Stock valley pan or aftermarket?

Clear pictures answer a lot of questions!

[Stripes]

The intake valves have the viton positive seals. the exhaust valves have only the rubber o ring.

I spoke to a US Seal-EOK rep. He was very helpful and indicates the viton seal should have 0.020" min compression on the valve stem. I only had about 0.005" compression. So, it may be the seals are worn out and caused this.

Its weird the inside of the intake has what appears to be an oily coating also, while the carb is clean. Mabe reversion pulls some of the oily air back into the intake from the heads?

[STEELCITYFIREBIRD]

You need to determine if the retainers are hitting the seals with the cam lift you have X rocker ratio.

If you didn't use a condom when pulling valves thru seals you likely removed material. Get some Good seals with garter spring on top and install with a condom on tip.

If the oil doesn't trace back close to where then PCV line enters the intake , oil likely is not from the crankcase. Fuel will wash it clean till heat starts to cook oil onto the intake.


"Mabe reversion pulls some of the oily air back into the intake from the heads?"
Definitely

[Stripes]

I apreciate all the help.

The intake valves only have the viton seals, no oring at the retainer.

The exhaust valves have oring at retainer, it does fit inside retainer. There are no Viton seals on the exhaust valves.

The valley pan is OE 1969 400. The intake is a 1972 400 version. Pvc hose fron factory front of manifold to factory OE valley pan.

Oil does not trace to PVC line, it only sees 1/2 the intake, and both sides are oily.

[Stripes]

here is a view of the seal installed. Exhaust valve, small oring edge visible.

running 1.5 roller tipped rockers.

[Stripes]

break out of the exhaust valve parts, no other seals.

[Stripes]

See the pvc line attachment in the OE position to the valley pan.

Note the oily substance inside the intake? Shouldnt this be dry and not oily?

[STEELCITYFIREBIRD]

I think you got the oil part figured, less making sure retainers don't hit seals at max lift.

Now why the broken spring/s (how many broke)? Are the springs and valves pitted like they were rusty at one time?

[STEELCITYFIREBIRD]

Pull that fitting or verify it goes thru the intake to the lower runner also.

[Stripes]

looks like you are correct and it goes to 2 places.

[Stripes]

PVC look pretty clean to me.

[Stripes]

pcv valve

[Stripes]

What are the odds the rings caused all this? I'm thinking zero chance, but maybe they put the wrong size in or cut them too short?

The motor was not smoking except for maybe a tiny puff at cranking.

Valve springs came with car and I do not know thier origin or history.

The 10$ question, will D port E-heads resolve this issue?

[Schurkey]

Originally Posted by Stripes

PVC look pretty clean to me.

Does it go into a baffled area? The PCV valve doesn't get very hot, so it's not going to cook oil onto it. Any oil mist it picks up will just drip off during an inspection, and if the oil is clean, it's hardly going to show up on a photo.

I'm trying to figure out why someone would put decent valve stem seals on the intakes, and crappy O-rings WITH NO SHIELDS on the exhaust. (First Guess: the shields don't fit the retainers, so they pitched the shields in the trash.)

Get sixteen real valve seals of the proper size, shove 'em on the guides, use the "condom" on the valve tip so you don't rip the lip off the seals when the valve pokes thorugh. And, yeah, check for clearances.

Or buy new aluminum heads, and verify all this stuff anyway.

[Stripes]

PVC does go into baffled area.

No idea why no seals on exhaust other than oring except maybe that positive pressure makes them less critical. Or the trash can thing.

[HWYSTR455]

Some machinists don't put seals on the exhaust, because they feel it just blows right out the exhaust. It's a cheap shortcut, would make me wonder about the rest of the work.


.

[Formulas]

Your keepers are not engaging the o'ring seals 100%

I don't know anybody who recomends the single valve springs with flat ribbon dampners they are prone to breakage

I put Viton seals on my exhaust as well

Stock keepers umbrellas on exhaust crower 404 springs or equivalent shimed proper, new PROPER Viton seals cleaned up heads and valves and you would be enjoying your ride for under 250.00 machine for ex seals a bit more

E'heads would solve but much more $$

[Stripes]

so can we agree the rings are likely not involved?

I'm going to measure the bore tonight, but i'm unsure how to tell if the rings are worn to need replacing? Heads are off, so compression test is out.