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#1
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Remote oil filter
Who here is running a dual filter remote unit. I am thinking of running one because of header clearance. I have hose routing and mounting place on the firewall but the trans dapt kit says it uses ford style filters. What filters are you running and if you mount it on the firewall where the heater box used to be how do you keep it from making a hell of a mess on the firewall when you change it.
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468/TKO600 Ford thru bolt equipped 64 Tempest Custom. Custom Nocturne Blue with black interior. |
#2
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Only difference is Ford and GM use different thread pitch on their filters. I went to the trouble of changing a remote dual filter over to the GM thread and figured out that it wasn't worth the bother.
I still run a remote dual filter on the drag car along with an engine oil cooler but have removed the remote filters and coolers that were on my daily drivers. Since I was also running the cooler in front of the radiator it was convenient to mount the filter assembly on the inside flat of the radiator support on the passenger side. There will be a slight drop in oil pressure with the remote filter over the stock setup.
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Mick Batson 1967 original owner Tyro Blue/black top 4-speed HO GTO with all the original parts stored safely away -- 1965 2+2 survivor AC auto -- 1965 Catalina Safari Wagon in progress. |
#3
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I use a Ford 3/4 - 16 remote filter setup, I use the FRAM PH4825 filters as they don't have an internal bypass valve, I want my oil filtered not bypassed dirty back to the engine.
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#4
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You can buy remote mounts for a Chevy type filter. Some run a single filter mount with a 2-quart filter, such as a Balwin B7, or equivalent.
https://www.ebay.com/p/Moroso-23760-...hoCpH0QAvD_BwE https://www.speed-talk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=43053 https://www.grainger.com/product/BAL...l-Filter-2KYF1 https://www.oilfilter-crossreference...ert/BALDWIN/B7 https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/...ml#post3588495 https://www.fleetfilter.com/filter/5...RoCi50QAvD_BwE Nitemare sells a high dollar long filter system. http://www.nitemareperformance.com/oil.html You can make your own long-filter system, cheaper. I bought a block adapter from KRE, & the braided hose & fittings from Summit. http://www.krepower.com/Pontiac%20Oi...%20Housing.htm Last edited by ponyakr; 07-18-2019 at 09:50 AM. |
#5
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Quote:
https://www.fleetfilter.com/filter/51641.html Here's one that's over 8" long. https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/wi...il+filter,5340 Last edited by ponyakr; 07-18-2019 at 11:18 AM. |
#6
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Quote:
Running that element on a full flow system will definitely cause oil starvation, with attendant damage. That element is made to be run on a by pass filter adapter that only filters the oil and returns it to the pan. It does not supply oil to the internally oiled engine parts. The people that insist on running a blocked by pass, or a system with no by pass valve are going to have to realize that the juice ain't worth the squeeze. Oil doesn't get dirty at a rapid rate, (unless the engine is already in a distressed state, then no filter is going to improve anything). If some unfiltered oil is bypassed it's not a catastrophe, and is probably not going to take the bearings or other wear parts out in one pass through the engine. Blocking the bypass off is subjecting the engine to oil starvation, or internal filter rupturing (which you will never even know that the filter ruptured, unless you cut each and every filter apart and unfold the media). Be advised that if and when the media ruptures it will be able to flush all the solids that have been caught by the media to that point. Think about that for a minute, all the particulate you were stressing over now has a path to all the internal components. If you want clean oil and solids removed, forcing all the oil through a full flow filter isn't the logical answer to your problem. Because the pore size in a full flow filter cannot be small enough to catch the under 40-20 micron solids because of the design cannot be too restrictive. It has to supply oil to the internally oiled parts to keep them cool and lubed. The only way you can keep those small solids at a reasonable rate is to frequently remove the oil from the engine and start the process again. I'm not going to explain it all again, but if you want the oil to stay as clean as when it was poured into the engine, a by pass oil filter system, or a centrifuge (BIG $) are the only ways to keep the particle count of the smaller particles that pass through any full flow filter out of your oil. There is no full flow magic bullet filter that will accomplish this and re-routing the oil isn't going to alleviate the problem either. A by pass oil filtering system will keep the oil clean, but somehow the price is too high, or people are don't trust the claims. Adversity to change is a big factor too. |
#7
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Here are 16 pages of Wix 3/4-16 filters. You can see which ones do not have a by-pass valve.
http://www.wixfilters.com/Lookup/Fil...id=3&styleid=7 "Be advised that's a by pass filter, not a full flow filter..." Then you can Google the ones you are interested in, and find more specs. Here's one that's over 5" long, & says "full-flow". https://www.fleetfilter.com/filter/51647.html "...I use the FRAM PH4825 filters as they don't have an internal bypass valve..." MOST say Fram filters are the worst. Just trying to come up with some 3/4-16 filters that don't have a by-pass. "...It will severely restrict oil flow because it's designed to filter oil slowly due to the pore size (12 microns)..." I've wondered about the K&N HP series filters(which I have used) that claim to filter down to 10 microns. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/knn-hp-2003 Last edited by ponyakr; 07-18-2019 at 12:18 PM. |
#8
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Put a plastic bag under the the filter(s) when you remove them to keep the oil from making a mess.
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#9
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I run these together all using -10AN lines:
https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...?code=BMK23-EA https://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-15845/overview/ https://www.improvedracing.com/oil-t...tat-p-212.html
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1969 Pontiac Firebird |
#10
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I've run the Fram PH4825 filters (without any bypass valve in the system) for over 20 years on a couple of Pontiac race engines and never had a problem . Although I've never had oil starvation or bearing trouble of any sort, (I do run AN12 lines to the remote filter and my oil galleries are opened up a bit).,all this talk of oil starvation has made me want to try a filter less system using a filter bypass plate like the type you could buy for Pontiacs years back, perhaps with just a very small full flow filter for the turbo feeds. And regular oil changes.
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#11
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Quote:
Just run a factory adapter with the by pass still intact and the Wix 1049 filter with no by pass. I have been running it on a 455 since 1990. At least you still have a filter doing its job the vast majority of the time. I am building a new engine and am kicking around filter options. Its hard to change something that has worked so well for me for so long. I am thinking about running that new K&P filter with a built in by pass in a stock adapter with its by pass plugged. Or I can buy it with no by pass and keep the factory one in tact. Trying to figure out which way would get me having oil go through the filter the most time between the two. I think plugging it and running the K&P with its by pass might be the best way, but its up in the air. It is hard to get data on just how much of the time the factory by pass is active. I guess it would depend a lot on the filter being used. I have heard of some Pontiac racers blowing their engines up with a plugged by pass factory adapter and the K&N filter. So that is a no go for me, don't trust it. The most proven thing for me to do(and cheapest) would just clean up the actual adapter on my 455 and run it with the WIX 1049 filter. Its proven to do exactly what it is supposed to, rock solid oil pressure filtered most of the time.. Drag cars never have the oil in long enough to get real dirty anyway. |
#12
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I'll probably stay with what has worked for me, I know it works up to around the 950 hp mark but I intend turning this combo up to around the 1400 mark next year. Probably the best idea is to run a much bigger remote full flow filter without a bypass valve- something in the 8-10" tall range. (the Fram Ph4825 I currently use is 6" tall).
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#13
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I use a small plastic pan like used in hospital rooms placed on a board with 1.5'x1.5' oil absorber mat folded around in case of splatter.
Both fender liners are also trimmed for better access. Last few changes used Delco PF2's. No idea if bypass style. 60lb pump shows 60lbs on gauge.
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