[Darth Menace]

update....I pulled the spark plug, it looked fine (but dirty as I had mentioned before). I put on a new wire, started the car, and the #8 wire did strobe (sorry if that's not the proper term). But unlike being a consistent strobe like normal, it would work properly for a bit, slow down some to a much slower blink and then go back to full speed.

Next up, I put it into drive and the squeal/die again! I've changed nothing since I last set the timing and it worked fine, but now it is back to the way it was at the beginning. The only thing that has changed is the weather, but I doubt that has too much to do with it.

For some reason it seems as though when I do something to the motor, I end up doing more damage then good (ex: replaced thermostat, burped the system, but antifreeze is starting to seep out everywhere, including the passenger floor and the thermostat housing. what the F) I'm thinking maybe I should stop fiddling with the motor aspect of the car and continue working on other things to pass the inspection. Yay or nay?

[ra96]

you should continue-ok im going to assume the dist cap is new-first double check everything -especialy the the rotor ( thats new too right) make sure the roter is not loose and in the event of taking the dist cap on and off you put it back on 100%
re check that wires are seated to cap and to plugs sometimes they feel like they went on but not all the way re check all the vac lines then-
try taking the air cleaner off the car then put in drive -and then try instead of drive go directly to reverse -see what happens
-the only not so good is coolant on the passenger floor -heater core -happens to all old cars-some are eaiser to get at than others-
thermo housing -youll have to do that one over
-if you do after you replace and reseal -let it sit to dry overnight then the next day re fill radiator and start the car

[kyle_blake]

Hi

The biggest thing is you are learning things that one day you will be teaching someone else who may be in the same position.

I swear I'm gonna make a website one day on all these things.

Well that is cool you found something electrical wrong. So lets build on that. Wouldn't hurt to call pectronix and ask if they've heard of this issue before of the timing light not being consistent on one plug ( I doubt it but why not ?) Never know what you might find out?

Anyway if you're able to ohm test all wires that would be great ( I've done this ) - it was very low resistance... I then knew all my wires were good. I re-did all the endings on my cords too when I went points to hei. Then I learned I can build my own wires!

Do you want some help testing using an ohm meter?
Just some extra tips maybe not mentioned:

1 - make sure plug wires "click" onto spark plug, same with cap.

2 - don't use the car in gear test yet as a test to your learning and troubleshooting ability !! Not yet!!!

The antifreeze in the floor is usually the heater core leaking. It happens. I think we can bypass it(fix it later) by re-routing the hoses.

So if plugs are all new, wires are all good (ohm tested, post results) timing is set way up for time being(16-18). Vac advance is plugged ( you said it's plugged into manifold vacuum ), you said firing order has been verified correctly counter clock wise? yes?

From there when you got off the phone from petronix maybe they have some other tests you might be able to double check the swap job?

From there you've checked the distributor cap is not loose by trying wiggle it. you've got it secured down. tabs twisted inwards.

We can then go move onto carb? It's been a long post so maybe this repeating myself, not too sure!!!

Agree letting thermostat gasket with sealant (thin bead) sit over night tightened down in place.



So

[Darth Menace]

Well, here is the resolution. Obviously I am missing something here...maybe just one little thing that is causing this to not go smoothly. I spoke to my mechanic friend, and next weekend we have off he will come and figure out the #8 problem, do timing, idle, and carb. After watching a pro do it on the car, I assume things should go smoothly next time I need to do something like this again. Getting this squared away will surely feel like huge leeps with this car.

That being said I should fix these antifreeze leaks before he works on it. It sucks everything was fine with the antifreeze before I changed the thermostat. Wish I kept my grubby fingers off it

[gto4evr]

Originally Posted by Darth Menace

Well, here is the resolution. Obviously I am missing something here...maybe just one little thing that is causing this to not go smoothly. I spoke to my mechanic friend, and next weekend we have off he will come and figure out the #8 problem, do timing, idle, and carb. After watching a pro do it on the car, I assume things should go smoothly next time I need to do something like this again. Getting this squared away will surely feel like huge leeps with this car.

That being said I should fix these antifreeze leaks before he works on it. It sucks everything was fine with the antifreeze before I changed the thermostat. Wish I kept my grubby fingers off it

Forget all the hardcore ohm tests and phone calls. Simply pop off the wire to #8 at the plug and the cap. Pop off the wire to #6 at the plug and the cap. Switch wires. now re-attach the newly positioned wires. See if the problem traveled to #6. If it did, then you've got a bad wire, end of story!

[Darth Menace]

Alright so here is an update. My mechanic friend stopped by yesteday to get this thing tuned. He didn't get too far as the verdict came down to a super gummed up carb. As in it is the main culprit to this horrendous experience. The jet screws could be turned completely closed to completely open and the car wouldn't notice a difference.

I currently have an Edelbrock 1406 600cfm, but I am thinking to buy an Edelbrock 1611 750 cfm (with an electric choke, yay). Anyway, so that's where is stands. Sucks that I now have to blow some more money, but good to make progress. Does a 750cfm make more sense on this as that was what it was from factory?

[webfoot]

600 is a bit small for a 400. 750 is factory cfm rating on the q-jets but having a 750 q-jet is not the same as having a 750 anything else since it is variable as the secondaries may never open all the way on most motors that use it. You get a 750 q-jet on a small block chevy too.

I've rebuilt holleys and q-jets but I know absolutely nothing about an edelbrock.

[lemans68]

this has been an extremely helpful post- thanks to all who contributed. i'm also currently trying to get my 350 HO running at it's expected level of performance. all this info helps.