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codyyy · 05-19-2010, 10:13 PM

I like that color too, just not sure if that's what I want to do. I really like the color of nh68gto's car but I'd save that for a convertible. I kinda want a convertible because of that car.
Anyway, no new updates as of yet, just stripping the body and hopefully I'll figure out the paint situation soon.

codyyy · 02:55 AM

I think I may have my mind set on a color, though right now that is the least of my problems. I have a few more questions.
1. On these cars, was a lot of block sanding required from the factory on the quarters? I'm stripping the quarters down and there seems to be a bit of bondo in spots, however the quarters do not look dented or rotted out.
2. This car has an aftermarket tach installed in the gauge cluster and it looks horrible. I'm wondering what was originally there, a clock perhaps?
3. If that is so, would it be possible to put on a hood tach with a clock in that spot and a 4-speed, or is this not something that is done? I'd like a clock and a tach, just not sure how those panned out. I don't think this car had rally gauges. I'm sure it would be a highlighted option from PHS.
4. Is the '69 clock any different than a '68? Seems that it is easier to find a '69-72 clock than the '68 and I don't really need something that is totally correct, just want to make sure it works right.

shineybike · 05-21-2010, 07:52 AM

Depending on what your PHS says, it could have had a clock delete plate, clock or dash tach. The original dash clocks rarely still work but there are quartz conversion rebuild kits available. I removed my clock and installed a '68 dash tach. Didn't want to cut my hood. The '68 gauge faces have a kind of gun metal blue color. The '69 gauges faces are black so not a match.

codyyy · 05-21-2010, 11:49 AM

It doesn't have anything highlighted in that area. I'll tell you exactly what is highlighted. Under the transmission section, HD 3-speed manual is highlighted. Under axles, special order axle is highlighted, and under tires, the only tire option is highlighted. That's it.
Personally I don't care about putting holes in this hood since it is already kinda screwed up as it is. I think my gauges are black as well, not gun metal.

nh68gto · 05-21-2010, 08:32 PM

The 68's are a blue-ish grey charcoal on the gauge faces, but do look black, you really look at them good and take that faded old lens off. Find a clock if you can to replace the tach someone put in there. Do the hood tack if you like it (expensive), or get a nice aftermarket, I put mine under the ash tray area. I like the lines the hood tach gives the hood too.

Thanks for the kind words on the paint, it is also a modern color.

codyyy · 05-24-2010, 02:29 AM

Now that I think I have paint all sorted out I'd like to move onto other things. There are 3, maybe 4 things that will take the biggest hit on my wallet: the engine, trans, and brakes. Suspension would be next.
I'm trying to make up a ballpark grocery list as I'm doing this car to kinda gauge how long it will take me to save up the money to restore this. On the plus side, I work for a car parts store so whatever stock stuff I want I can get at discount. Bad news is they keep cutting my hours.
Anyway, the brakes issue is kinda bugging me. I really want to convert this to power disc brakes in the front but would rather piece it together if I could. I searched this forum and found a few different ideas, but here is my question:
Should I convert this to power discs front or just convert it to power drums for now and then worry about the discs later? I believe it is as easy as just swapping in a booster/master cylinder right? I want this car to safely stop when I need it to.

nh68gto · 05-24-2010, 06:20 AM

Do the disc conversion, replace all bushings and get quality shocks. She will handle great.

What ever you think you will need, there will be a lot more.

What you think you will spend, double it.

Just buying a couple odds and ends gets out of hand quickly, never mind the big things. And poncho engines are not cheap to rebuild.

codyyy · 05-24-2010, 11:15 AM

I was thinking of getting a good running 400 and a decent Muncie for now. The way I see it, it isn't going to take me long to restore this, it's just gonna take me a really long time to save up the money for the parts.

codyyy · 05-24-2010, 05:56 PM

I've been thinking. I believe all cars '68-72 should work as far as the front brakes right? GM A-body and fullsize? I'm planning on heading to the junkyard for the spindles, calipers, brake booster, and master cylinder. The only thing I'm gonna keep is the spindles, the rest of the stuff is for cores. That's all I need right? I'll need to buy new lines but I want to make sure I have everything I need from the JY.

webfoot · 05-24-2010, 06:43 PM

Drum spindles are the same, other than the amount of metal at the top of the spindles where the caliper bracket bolts to. Might be easier/cheaper to have this pad machined down (I think it is 1/4" thicker IIRC) than to find a good used set.

Check for core charges beforehand as I don't know if you'd save anything by buying JY stuff vs paying the core. Some of this stuff was pretty interchangeable so core charges are low.

codyyy · 05-24-2010, 07:14 PM

I did at my store. Core charge per caliper is $36 each, booster is $30, master cylinder is $14.
I'll check into machining down the spindles if I can't find what I need but I'd need to find a write-up or something on how this is done to get the measurements.
Basically if I get JY stuff for cores and buy everything I want from my store, the price for everything just about is around $310.

nh68gto · 05-24-2010, 09:04 PM

I got my kit from direct fit brakes, everything and I mean everything to do the conversion. All new stuff "GM replacements" $550 may be a hair higher now. You will have the basics but the little things add up, bearings, lines, brackets, and such. And no messing with frozen bolts at the yard for cores.

Was going to go more performance, but if something does fail. I can get it at the local parts store.

codyyy · 10:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nh68gto

I got my kit from direct fit brakes, everything and I mean everything to do the conversion. All new stuff "GM replacements" $550 may be a hair higher now. You will have the basics but the little things add up, bearings, lines, brackets, and such. And no messing with frozen bolts at the yard for cores.

Was going to go more performance, but if something does fail. I can get it at the local parts store.

This is a lot better than the kits I was looking at. I'd like the performance stuff but right now this car is getting the KISS restoration (keep it simple stupid). I don't trust California drivers and manual drum brakes, so I need to upgrade the brakes. I like a fast car but I'd rather have something that stops good too.
I'm not sure if I was looking at the right place but Direct Fit only makes a 4-wheel conversion for like $1100.

webfoot · 05-25-2010, 11:51 AM

Hell if you just need cores I have a booster & master I'd send you for the cost of shipping. i am in Oregon so probably wouldn't be bad.

The difference in the mounting boss thickness is to account for the thickness of the caliper bracket.

codyyy · 05-25-2010, 05:48 PM

I'll go to the junkyard on Friday for their half-off sale. If memory serves me right they had a really nice '71 full-size Pontiac convertible there that had a 400 in it. I never thought to take anything because the engine and trans was gone and I didn't think anything would work. Hopefully it is still there, it didn't get stripped much.
But yeah, core charges are the utmost pains in my wallet right now. If I bought everything without returning cores, the price would go up a lot.

codyyy · 05-26-2010, 04:38 PM

I went to the junkyard today and got kinda mad. There was a really nice full-size 4-door Pontiac there with disc brakes that would have worked, except someone hacked the frame in half and took the front part. I could have used the master cylinder and booster off it but I decided not to. There was also a few nice Buicks there and a real nice Buick wagon there, I think a '69 but they all had drums. I might post here on PY looking for some junk core calipers, master cylinder and booster as well as some disc brake spindles. I have a feeling to have drum brake spindles machined, it will cost me as much as buying disc brake spindles.

bigborehunter · 05-26-2010, 04:49 PM

If you decide to add power steering, you really should get spindles from a power steering car while you're shopping. The castor angles aren't the same as a man strg car. It makes a difference.

codyyy · 05-26-2010, 04:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigborehunter

If you decide to add power steering, you really should get spindles from a power steering car while you're shopping. The castor angles aren't the same as a man strg car. It makes a difference.

Yeah, I'd love to have power steering too. What all is involved with a power steering swap?

bigborehunter · 06:06 PM

To do it nicely, I suggest a variable ratio power steering box which gives you 2 and a half turns lock to lock. This was standard on 1972 power steering A bodies, optional early on since it was borrowed from Buick in 1969 as their Accu Drive system. Some guys use the late model Monte Carlo box which is also good. Easier to get probably from Napa as well. Of course you'll need pullies for the power steering pump & engine. The power steering pump, hoses and bracketry. What many first timers forget is to use power steering spindles. That way you aren't fighting against a castor angle that was designed for easy return to center on manual steering. If you can find a complete set up from a power steering car, that'd be the way to go. Perhaps a different model than A body is usable, anyone else know for sure? Remember the full size cars used diffferent wheel bolt patterns, 5 inch versus 4 & 3/4 if memory serves. So the rotors won't work with existing A body wheels. I heard that the ball joint mounts were different on the manual steering cars, but do not know if that is true. Any one else know?

codyyy · 05-26-2010, 06:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigborehunter

To do it nicely, I suggest a variable ratio power steering box which gives you 2 and a half turns lock to lock. This was standard on 1972 power steering A bodies, optional early on since it was borrowed from Buick in 1969 as their Accu Drive system. Some guys use the late model Monte Carlo box which is also good. Easier to get probably from Napa as well. Of course you'll need pullies for the power steering pump & engine. The power steering pump, hoses and bracketry. What many first timers forget is to use power steering spindles. That way you aren't fighting against a castor angle that was designed for easy return to center on manual steering. If you can find a complete set up from a power steering car, that'd be the way to go. Perhaps a different model than A body is usable, anyone else know for sure? Remember the full size cars used diffferent wheel bolt patterns, 5 inch versus 4 & 3/4 if memory serves. So the rotors won't work with existing A body wheels. I heard that the ball joint mounts were different on the manual steering cars, but do not know if that is true. Any one else know?

I found a '70 or '71 Cadillac there that might have worked but it was 5 on 5. I believe it was a PS car as well. If there is a way that I can somehow make it 5 on 4 3/4 without doing a lot of work or any machining I might go that route. I might as well convert it to PS while I am at it, I can get all the parts.

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