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#1
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Would it be a good idea to cut the header flanges before installation? They are hooker comps and they are coated. Will they corrode if I cut them after they have been coated? Thanks.
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"A government big enough to give you everything you want is a government big enough to take from you everything you have." Gerald Ford “The problem with socialism is that you eventually, run out of other people’s money.” - Margaret Thatcher |
#2
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Would it be a good idea to cut the header flanges before installation? They are hooker comps and they are coated. Will they corrode if I cut them after they have been coated? Thanks.
__________________
"A government big enough to give you everything you want is a government big enough to take from you everything you have." Gerald Ford “The problem with socialism is that you eventually, run out of other people’s money.” - Margaret Thatcher |
#3
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Not sure why you're considering cutting the header flanges. Do you plan on using another type of collector?
If you cut any part of the coated header material it will be inclined to corrode at that area. You can use high temp manifold paint with a brush to touch up the exposed metal and it will probably not rust. |
#4
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It looks like it would be easier to get to the bolts if the flanges were cut between the ports. Like between 1 and 3 and 5 and 7. Just thought I read about people doing this and making it easier to install, but I probably wont cut them because I don't want to take a chance of ruining them. Thanks.
__________________
"A government big enough to give you everything you want is a government big enough to take from you everything you have." Gerald Ford “The problem with socialism is that you eventually, run out of other people’s money.” - Margaret Thatcher |
#5
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It can make them waaayyy easier to install. If you try to install them without cutting the flanges you'll find out why quickly while you're gouging your knuckles on them trying to get the bolts started. If you're never going to take them back off I'd leave them but otherwise it'll save you much cursing.
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#6
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I'm also inclined to believe you'll experience fewer header leaks with the flanges cut. Each cylinder flange can expand and contract on it's own without fighting the rest. No metal to warp between exhaust ports possibly unseating or stressing an adjacent port.
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#7
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Judge not, In my opinion cutting them is the way to go. Much easier to install and fewer leaks, I believe.
Later, Murf |
#8
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i thought you were supposed to cut them before coating...i cut mine and it makes things so much easier...
__________________
'74 formula 400, w/shaker (3 scoops) black deluxe interior, '70 406 balanced assembly, .30 trw slugs, moly rings, 4x heads 2.11/1.77 stainless valves, ra 4 cam, e-rpm intake, holley 750 vac. sec, msd hei, hooker headers w/ dual 3'' flowmaster 50 series ending at axle, t400 w/ GM6 convertor, transgo shift kit, b&m starshifter, 3.08 gears, centerlines, 265/50-15 bfg's rear and 235/60-15 front...yes im over cammed but it is still very fun... |
#9
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When I originally installed my Flowtechs, I cursed the day that I ever bought headers, but the next year when I pulled the engine to do some major work,I cut the flanges before I reinstalled them. What a difference it made. The bolts are much easier to get at and without the thick flange, the bolts can be tightened better to avoid leaks.
Chris |
#10
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Did not cut mine the first time, it took me 8 hours to get them on!! Cut them and it is more like a 2 hour project now, but then again it could be the learning curve, they have been on/off at least 4 times. Cutem. -Jim
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#11
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Why would it shorten the install time. Is this time gettimg them in place or actually bolting them in. Also does anyone know if it would tend to make the jet-hot coating peel at that point. Why do you suppose the manufactures don't make them that way to start with?
__________________
67 Firebird Best time 1.53 60' 11.35@119.34 1/4 7.35@94.48mph 1/8 3500lb. leaf springs |
#12
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Judge Not,
I just did this to my Hooker Comp coated headers in August and I didn't even touch them up as it appears that the coating actually penetrates the metal, but you can just touch it up with heat paint if your concerned. I don't know if it matters to you or not but the look and appearance without the flange is clean, detailed and just gives others who look under the hood the impression that this guy knows what he's doing. Go for it you will not regret. |
#13
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Thanks everyone, a cuttin I will go
__________________
"A government big enough to give you everything you want is a government big enough to take from you everything you have." Gerald Ford “The problem with socialism is that you eventually, run out of other people’s money.” - Margaret Thatcher |
#14
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It will save a lot of time on the bolts between 5 and 7 and 6 and 8. It saves about 4 hours and probably a pint of blood . Man, I hate headers . -Jim
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#15
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Does anybody have any pics of where to cut headers. thanks
__________________
1967 Firebird under -DONE 1965 GTO under construction |
#16
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Learning curve, huh? Well, mine should be similar enough that you oughtta be able to come over and whip those headers onto the engine in about an hour by now!
__________________
Badder than old King Kong And meaner than a junkyard dog -Jim Croce |
#17
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This is how my header flange looks. They were like this when I bought them, but I'm fairly sure that's the way they were made....they install one tube at a time and the collector is bolted to the tubes. I'm told installation of these will be VERY nice compared to most other kinds.
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Darin '64 Bonneville Wagon (sold) 69 Lemans-All motor (sold) 9.81 @ 136.39MPH |
#18
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No Grasshopper(JYD), Proverb say: You must shed your own blood for lesson to be truly learned. -Jim
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#19
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I have pix on a disc, how do I get them on screen (computers not my strong point)?
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#20
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hpp pontiac mag. has a couple articles..i cut mine all the way to the bolt holes in the middle tubes...
__________________
'74 formula 400, w/shaker (3 scoops) black deluxe interior, '70 406 balanced assembly, .30 trw slugs, moly rings, 4x heads 2.11/1.77 stainless valves, ra 4 cam, e-rpm intake, holley 750 vac. sec, msd hei, hooker headers w/ dual 3'' flowmaster 50 series ending at axle, t400 w/ GM6 convertor, transgo shift kit, b&m starshifter, 3.08 gears, centerlines, 265/50-15 bfg's rear and 235/60-15 front...yes im over cammed but it is still very fun... |
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